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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have always used my cross bike for road training as well as cross racing, that said I would like to set it up to try and be less than 20lbs. My main thoughts are upgrading my fork and wheelset since the drivetrain was just replaced in February, but I can't find much information on forks and I don't really understand wheels, so any help would be appreciated.

Specs

frame and fork: 2001 Cannondale Caad 3
wheels: Mavic cxp21 laced to Coda expert hubs
pedals: Shimano 515
cranks/bb: Truvativ Elita 53/39 isis splined
chain: Shimano 9
casette: 105 9spd.
f&r der:105
shifters: 105
bars: Cinelli 42cm.
stem: Sette edge
bakes: Avid 10c?
saddle: Selle Italia Nitrox
seatpost: stock

I am guessing it is around 22lbs. as is but that might be optimistic on my part.
 

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LetsGoOutside said:
I have always used my cross bike for road training as well as cross racing, that said I would like to set it up to try and be less than 20lbs. My main thoughts are upgrading my fork and wheelset since the drivetrain was just replaced in February, but I can't find much information on forks and I don't really understand wheels, so any help would be appreciated.

Specs

frame and fork: 2001 Cannondale Caad 3
wheels: Mavic cxp21 laced to Coda expert hubs
pedals: Shimano 515
cranks/bb: Truvativ Elita 53/39 isis splined
chain: Shimano 9
casette: 105 9spd.
f&r der:105
shifters: 105
bars: Cinelli 42cm.
stem: Sette edge
bakes: Avid 10c?
saddle: Selle Italia Nitrox
seatpost: stock

I am guessing it is around 22lbs. as is but that might be optimistic on my part.
For wheels go tubular, if youre really concerned about weight. A set of Ultegra hubs with like Mavic Reflex rims will save you a good deal of weight with a noticeable performance upgrade as well.

Fork buy the Redline 600g carbon fork if you want to save some $$$. its only $180. http://store.yahoo.com/phattire1/recafiroandc.html

I like the 3T prima 199 handlebar which only weighs 199 grams and can be had for about $20 on ebay. Syntace F99 stem is good too, and only weighs about 100 grams.

most people try and stay away from carbon seatposts as they have broken on the remount, and prefer aluminum. KCNC makes a lightweight aluminum seatpost for under $90, the Ti Pro Lite.

btw youre probably going to need a smaller large ring----53 is too big for cross generally.

see my blog below for more weight savings tips and pictures of superlightweight cyclocross bikes.

jeremy
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
How does the redline fork compare to a Winwood, Easton, etc? Is 600g pretty light for a cross fork?

I would prefer to stay clincher for wheels, I am pretty I could save a significant amt. of weight with a wheelest that isn't 6 year old Coda technology but jsut don't know anything about what is considered strong enough for cross or what is even considered light in regard to wheels.

My stem weighs 120g now, pretty close to Syntace and at a fraction of the cost. That post looks like a pretty swank item too. I also keep around a 48 tooth ring for cross season but I need the 53 for the local club rides in the spring/summer.
 

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600g is fairly light for a fork, a stock Al fork weighs about 700-800. the winwood isnt light, even though its carbon. Yes buy the Easton if you got the $$$, at $450 retail its a nice fork, weighs like 490 grams ive been told too.

For wheels, light cross wheels are around 1400 grams or so. My CXp's with ultegra weighed like 1700 ish. If this is a racing bike, my suggestion is to still keep your wheels and train on them, and for racing use your tubulars, but if you dont like that, American Classic has some light cross wheels (clincher).

jb
 

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first strip yourself down

to under 10% body fat. shave grams on the bike after.

if you want to go clincher, get the swiss threat wheels from excel sports


http://www.excelsports.com/new.asp?...eel+Shimano&vendorCode=EXCEL&major=1&minor=24

$379 rear 798 grams 32 spoke 3x handbuilt


$249 front 645 grams 32 spoke 3x handbuilt

$628 for a 1443 gram wheelset with Hugi 240 hubs BT spokes and rims. best deal on a light handbuilt set I've seen.

toss in a decent CF fork (my suggestion would be a Zornyc by Ridley) and you've shaved some weight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I am really into the looks of the Redline forks and it looks like an awesome deal. I might look into some AC's, some of my buddies ride the on their road wheels and really like them.

ATPjunkie- I'm 5'11" and weigh 135 lbs. I can't lose anymore weight or someone would have to check me into one of the clinics (I know not funny). I think I would see a rather large benefit in getting my bike down to 18lbs. (13% of my weight) from it's current 22 lbs (16% of my weight), especially when training on the road.
 

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I second the redline fork...

I've been riding a conquest pro with the redline carbon fork for a couple of weeks, and it is really stiff. I've been riding it everywhere I ride my mtb, and have no issues. I'm 6'5" and about 210, and even with the low-spoke count ritchey wheels (20/24), the bike carves the turns. No for and aft movement that I can detect.

I've also got a winwood dualist which feels scary light (doing the hand balance test against my look hsc3), but don't have any time on it yet.
 

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Get rid of all those chain rings and go for a single ring in front (42T)
Then skip the front derailleur and swap over to a left brake handle instead of a brifter. If you feel you need a wider range of gears, you can always go for an IRD Elite custom 11-28 cass. Not that expensive.

Your wheels are probably in the same weight category as boat anchors.
A set of cxp33 DT revolution(comp drive side) and a lighter hub would save you quite a bit, and they're STRONG. Also check up Mike Garcia wheels. Good valuable stuff.

Light weighted cross forks? Ritchey, AlphaQ, Easton and Empella
 

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Howzitbroke said:
CXP 21 are the OEM version of CXP 33's. The are both heavy. Try some Velocit Aeroheads, Mavic Opens, or DT r1.1 to save some weight. Your lacing suggestion is spot on.
CXP 21's are different from CXP33's. Both rims have a slight aero profile , but the 21 is rather low (20-21mm?) and the 33 is slightly taller, around 23-24 mm IIRC. You are right about them both being heavy though, I think the were both around 480gms rim.

The 33's are pretty bomber and there is nothing wrong with them, but since you are looking for weight savings you may want to look at some other options. I've had good luck with velocity aeroheads which would save you about 120 gms (1/4 lb) per wheelset over the CXP33's.

I would say keep the CXP/Coda set for training/rough course/pit wheels and use the new set for racing/ riding.
 

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I wouldn't go with AC wheels, too many issues, but that's a discussion that has been argued in the wheels section too many times as it is.

A nice set of handbuilt wheels is a good call. oddsandendos.com
At your weight, you can go 28 hole radial in the front and 32 3cross drive radial non-drive.
 

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I weighted my CXP33 rims to be less than claimed, around 460grams.
They are much stiffer than Open Pro's and IRD Cadence (sub 400).
DT Swiss RR 1.1 has proved to weight around 425. However.
Non of those rims has the mud release qualities as the 33's.
The aerohead's I don't know. I'll really give them a try, then off course with the offset rear rim.
My LBS couldn't get a hold of them, so a went for the IRD.
The Aerohed was my original pick of choice

Yes. And American Classic? I wouldn't touch anything from that company with a poker.
Been there, done that !!
 

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yes you qualify as 'light' good.

just wanted to make sure.
stay away from the AC's again been much bad speak. Look into those Swiss threats, they make a lighter 28 spoke version, you can't beat the price and quality and weight and they are HANDBUILT!
Personally I'd stay away from radial spoking. does it save weight over crossing them,yes a tiny bit (shorter spokes) but it makes the wheel more rigid vertically and less rigid laterally, not really a plus in cx.
get a good all CF cx fork, that will shave a load as well. One ring for you as well. svae weight at the crank and shifter.
 
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