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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

I just came into a pair of velocity razor rims (32h) and I want to build up a wheelset using silver flip flop hubs. I know several of you use the nashbar/iro/formula hubs, but since this is my first wheelset I was wondering if I should choose the cheaper suzue jr's instead. Any opinions? Also, for those of you who've built them up already, do you mind posting your hub measurements I can plug into the spoke calculator? especially if I pull the trigger on the nashbars, it would be nice to get the spokes at the same time and save on shipping.

thanks in advance!
 

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Done with winter.
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Just get the IRO/nashbar/formula hubs... the Suzue basics aren't worth the trouble. I've had a Suzue basic rear that I rebuilt every 6 months but the bearing races are still starting to pit. Just get a hub with cartridge bearings and you won't have to worry about it.

As far as spoke length do a quick search and you should find a link to a site where you choose your hub/rim combination and it'll show appropriate spoke lengths.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Does anyone have the IRO/Formula/Nashbar measurements already?

That way I can plug that info into the spoke calculator and order the spokes from nashbar at the same time as the hubs and save some time/shipping money. I can't measure them myself cuz I don't have 'em in front of me!
I did a google but found no existing numbers.

thanks for the input, btw, I like the nashbars better than suzue but the little angel on my shoulder (eg my girlfriend) tells me stuff like "stop spending money on bicycles." It's helpful to have reason behind my arguments in favor of shiny new things.:)
 

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n00bsauce
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ILikeShiny said:
...nashbar/iro/formula hubs..hub measurements...

thanks in advance!
No Problem. But seriously do a quick google search - I typed 2 words and clicked three links to find this. Nashbar specs are on their site.
 

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Master Bike Mechanic
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The Nashbar hubs have a 71.5 mm flange, and they are built for a 47mm chain line, so a rough estimate of 40mm flange to center should do. I just took this from the little link that says, "More Info." They put up a lot of their specs that way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
OK, OK, I'm a moron

how could I have overlooked those two sources of information? I hope this doesn't reflect on my abilities as a wheelbuilder. :eek:

I will post pics as I am documenting this particular build. the frame is a newly painted old lugged frame with horizontal drops, no idea what the original make was. there is a derailleur hanger, as well as braze-ons for fenders, but no water bottle holes. Also, there is an odd triangle brazed under the downtube, which serves no function as far as I can see. Another odd thing was the rear spacing at 110mm. Doesn't look like it was respaced that way, but how could you really know. Anyway, some nuts, washers and a course threaded rod is slowly but surely making the rear 120.

thanks again for the tips.
 

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Master Bike Mechanic
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If it has a hole through it, then it was for hanging a race number. Some body could have been running a BMX hub on it, some of those are 110.

Don't worry, it took me a while to find the info thing. Just remember, equal tension is just as, if not more important as being true. If all fails, just bring the parts to your LBS and have them build them.

Contrary to what others do, I wouldn't grind off the Derailuer hanger, you may want to convert it to an multi speed later on after you move the fixie parts over to your next project bike.

Good luck.
 

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ILikeShiny said:
how could I have overlooked those two sources of information? I hope this doesn't reflect on my abilities as a wheelbuilder. :eek:
Take it slow and don't skip any steps and you'll do fine. I recommend lacing the spokes one day and then tensioning and truing the next day.

Some older track frames were 110mm, shouldn't be too hard to re-space. Seems like you're going about it the right way.

Have fun and post pictures.
 
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