Road Bike, Cycling Forums banner
1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
341 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, I've been trying to figure out the best way to built up my Surly Cross Check fixed and I've come across IROs parts again and I like what I see.

I'd like to built up my frame with their stuff and I think I can do it with a 42 mm chainline instead of the 52 mm mountain chainline especially since this is going to be a road application. I've been told that a lower q-factor is desirable on a fixie. The only issue I worry about is the q-factor and having interference b/t the 165 mm cranks and the wider chainstays of the Cross-Check. Does anybody think that this would be a problem? I had thought about getting the 126mm or even maybe 120 mm hubs instead of the 130 and tightening down the chainstays to get a little more clearance for heels and such. Will this work like I think it will or is it not even worth worrying about?

Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,006 Posts
I don't pretend to have any special expertise here, and I won't be offended if someone corrects me, but I don't believe that the 6.25 mm width difference at each dropout resulting from squeezing the stock rear spacing from 132.5 to 120mm is going to translate to much of a difference further forward where heel clearance would come into play, especially if you're running 165mm crank arms. And I personally wouldn't agonize over a 5mm difference in Q-factor (on each side), regardless. I guess if I were building it, I'd go with a road-width (130mm) rear hub and the BB that yielded the best chainline for whichever crankset you choose, Q-factor be damned. I know people who are running 130mm fixed hubs on their Crosschecks; and the 120mm IRO hubs' axles happen to be long enough to accommodate spacers to adapt them to 130mm spacing. Best of luck on the build!
 

·
FTMD
Joined
·
283 Posts
I didn't put nearly this much thought into building my Crosscheck into a road fixie. Used the 135 mm mtb hub from surly (fixed/free) on a delgado rim. Used a bottom bracket for a double instead of a triple. My 170 mm cranks mounted right up with a perfect chainline. I haven't hit my heel, that I know of anyway, and I do tend to ride heels in a little bit.

Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
341 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks, yeah I do tend to overthink things a bit. Will consider.
 

·
Endure26
Joined
·
175 Posts
I believe most MTB cranks are now being built to 50mm chainline (Shimano X-bottom bracket). That's measured from center of seat tube/BB to center of rings (either double or triple). Going to a narrower chainline shouldn't be a problem up front as long as you don't plan on running monster rings, as they might rub the c-stay. If you're using an octalink, square taper, or isis BB, then you can always adjust BB length to fine tune chainline. X-type doesn't give you this option.

At the rear, spacing from the dropout to the cog should be the same with C-check using either a 130 or 135 as the axle will cinch up the frame. You don't have much ability to adjust at the cog. I'd be inclined to use the Surly 135mm fixed/free hub as the wider hub will build a stronger wheel.

T.
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top