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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi there,

Not sure if this is going to come out right, but I'd greatly appreciate any help. Also, I am wondering if I'm posting on the wrong sub-forum here, so much apologies if that is the case.

I currently have a compact frame with the measurements as attached, and it fits me really well, but I am wondering if such measurements would translate to the 49cm measurement (for traditional/horizontal toptube geometry) in the second page of the attachment.

If not the 49cm, maybe the 50cm?

Or is it not as easy as I'm making it out to be?

Thanks much!
 

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from looking at the files the top tube is the most important dimension. That being said the 51 is closer to your favorite, but the top tube is shorter than your favorite. Also the head tube is 2.6 cm shorter, so add spacers. Seat tube angle is the same and the BB height is the biggest difference. The favoriite is shallow at 2.874 while the dream is 4.2+/- (622/2 -269) this sort of explains the longer head tube on the favorite. so what does this mean? You'll need a longer stem with 2 cm of spacers on the new frame. Of course i have been known to be wrong. bombs away....
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
cmg,

Thanks! So, if I am understanding you correctly, 51cm is the frame that most closely match my current frame, but with the caveat that I'd need to add spacers (2 cm) plus a longer stem to the new frame. Is that correct?

It just occurred to me that my current frame has a 1 cm spacer already! Yikes, 3 cm of spacer! That's not too pretty, is it...
 

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that's because i'm thinking the 534 top tube lenght is the absolute limit. if you look at the 53 frame, top tube is 6mm longer, head tube is only 1.6 shorter than current fav. but the head tube angle is steeper, may have quicker turning as a result. So you could go with the 53 also but lose some lenght on the stem as a result. you didn't mention what lenght of stem your currently using but if it's a 10 it will be a 9 on the new frame.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
cmg said:
that's because i'm thinking the 534 top tube lenght is the absolute limit. if you look at the 53 frame, top tube is 6mm longer, head tube is only 1.6 shorter than current fav. but the head tube angle is steeper, may have quicker turning as a result. So you could go with the 53 also but lose some lenght on the stem as a result. you didn't mention what lenght of stem your currently using but if it's a 10 it will be a 9 on the new frame.
cmg,

My current frame has a 9 cm stem (96 degrees). I imagine that'll be the same one to use on the new frame? Nevertheless, it's too bad, because it sounds like I should be sourcing a 51cm frame (or a 53 cm, but minding the caveats you mentioned above), rather than this titanium 49 cm one I've been coveting off Craigslist. Oh well.

Oh, another thing: my current set-up has 2cm spacers. I'm going to have some seriously long spacer on the new frame! Sigh...:cryin:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
[Bump]

I've recently inherited a horizontal/classifc frame, and I'm wondering if you wouldn't mind sharing with me your thoughts as to whether if my conclusion that the geometry is close enough to what was suggested in this thread.

The new frame I found has the following geometry center-to-center:
top tube: 21.5 inches, or 54.6 cm
seat tube: 20 inches, or 50.8 cm
bottom tube: 24 inches, or 61 cm
head tube (tip to tip): 3.5 inches, or 8.9 cm

The suggestion in this thread so far was to find a top tube with length of 53.4 cm and seat tube of 52. I figure if I play a bit with the stem, bar (perhaps a moustache bar), and seat post length, I can make this new frame work. I'm thinking of converting this new frame into a fixie/townie/commuter (max 15-mile ride), so perhaps the frame doesn't have to be at very dialed-in fit.

What do you think? Thanks very much!
 

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Overthinking it.

jack650 said:
[Bump]so perhaps the frame doesn't have to be at very dialed-in fit.
My thoughts exactly. :)

If you do go with a moustache bar, keep in mind that the sections you almost always put your hands on jut out way forward of the stem clamp. Many people who convert from drop bars to moustache bars wind up buying a stem 2 cm shorter than the one they had with the drop bars. FWIW, I don't recommend the moustache bar. In contrast to all the hype you read about its versatility, many people find that there's really only one half-way comfortable hand position—right in that jut-out forward bend. IMO, might as well go flat bar and keep from having to buy a new stem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks, guys! I'm very much looking forward into this conversion project. I certainly would like to do this all by myself. Now I just need to find a local good samaritan who wouldn't mind lending me tools and perhaps a workstand, but most importantly advice!
 
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