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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just threw a front derailleur I got on my bike and this is how it sits



Now, I haven't done a lot of wrenching, but every bike I've ever had has the gap between the chainring and the fd the same distance the entire way... what's the deal here? Is this not going to work, or is there some way to adjust this?
 

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Is that a braze on adapter? If so, just shim it with some strips cut from an Al can. From the looks of it, I'd try 4 layers under the bolt for starters....

I cut off a strip of can and then fold it over a few times, give it a try and then adjust as necessary.
 

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Hey, on a side note, how do you like those Neuvation wheels? Mine get here tomorrow and cannot wait to get started on the build.
 

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height problem...

android said:
Is that a braze on adapter? If so, just shim it with some strips cut from an Al can. From the looks of it, I'd try 4 layers under the bolt for starters....

I cut off a strip of can and then fold it over a few times, give it a try and then adjust as necessary.
I assume that the problem is the height, not the angle. It's sitting way too high. If it's a clamp-on lowering it is simple.

I have also modified clamp-on adapters to correct angular problems, permanently. I use a small dremel sanding drum an grind the are where the FD contacts the adapter to change the angle slightly. That adapter then stays with the frame.
 

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C-40 said:
I assume that the problem is the height, not the angle. It's sitting way too high. If it's a clamp-on lowering it is simple.

I have also modified clamp-on adapters to correct angular problems, permanently. I use a small dremel sanding drum an grind the are where the FD contacts the adapter to change the angle slightly. That adapter then stays with the frame.
I think the OP is asking about the gap not being even between the ring and the cage. It looks to me that if you lower the FD enough to get the 1.5mm gap at the top of the cage, the tail is going to be grinding.

I like the idea of permanently modifying a braze on adapter too.
 

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It does look as if there's about a 4-degree angle between the seat tube centerline and the edge of the FD mounting tab. I've never seen such a large deviation from parallel before, but that doesn't necessarily mean it's a defect. Perhaps it needs to be there for reasons not known to me. As said, "angular adjustment" is the fix.
 

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My FD sits a bit higher than what is recommended, but it shifts just fine. Try it as it is, and if it's not working right, then get it adjusted.
 

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the mount isn't parallel to the ST but it's still way too high... with no cable it's all the way in, and when it swings out it will go slightly higher (unless you've adjusted the limits for the sake of the photo)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
yeah, i know it's not in exactly the right position, my inquiry was more in relation to the braze on adapter mount not being parallel to the seat tube, and how to go about fixing this. Thanks for the tip on the AL can shims, I'll give that a try when I get home today!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
mikagsd said:
Hey, on a side note, how do you like those Neuvation wheels? Mine get here tomorrow and cannot wait to get started on the build.
I really like the neuvations, these are a set of aero r28s. I mean I've never owned a pair of really nice wheels, so I don't have anything to really compare to, but they are heaps better than any wheel i have owned before. Though the freewheel is real loud, it just reminds you to keep pedaling.

android said:
I think the OP is asking about the gap not being even between the ring and the cage. It looks to me that if you lower the FD enough to get the 1.5mm gap at the top of the cage, the tail is going to be grinding.

I like the idea of permanently modifying a braze on adapter too.
Yes, that's what I was concerned about. I lowered the derailleur to get the 1.5mm gap at the top of the chainring, and the tail was grinding. Hopefully shimming it will work out. I will report back and let people know how it goes!
 
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