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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
From the other threads on this topic I'm clear on the recipe for homebrew chain lube. Before I start using it though, I just want to be clear on it's use:

Do you use GT-85 / WD-40 to flush out the chain before applying the homebrew?

Do you use a shop bought lube after applying the homebew?

Basically, is this a multi-purpose do-it-all product which will replace all other chain cleaning products?

Thanks.
 

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A wheelist
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I've used hombrew (50/50 mix) for many years so I'll chime in.

Do you use GT-85 / WD-40 to flush out the chain before applying the homebrew?

Nope, I just lube over the top of the original lube that's on a new chain after that lube is depleted.

Do you use a shop bought lube after applying the homebrew?

Of course not. That would be against the principle of the homebrew wouldn't it?

Basically, is this a multi-purpose do-it-all product which will replace all other chain cleaning products?

While it is a good chain cleaner (due to the solvent it contains) I think your question should read "Is this a chain lube which will replace all other chain lubes?" And my answer to that would be "yes".
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
While it is a good chain cleaner (due to the solvent it contains) I think your question should read "Is this a chain lube which will replace all other chain lubes?" And my answer to that would be "yes".[/QUOTE]

Yes, that's what I was trying to get at!
 

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I've used hombrew (50/50 mix) for many years so I'll chime in.

Do you use GT-85 / WD-40 to flush out the chain before applying the homebrew?

Nope, I just lube over the top of the original lube that's on a new chain after that lube is depleted.

Do you use a shop bought lube after applying the homebrew?

Of course not. That would be against the principle of the homebrew wouldn't it?

Basically, is this a multi-purpose do-it-all product which will replace all other chain cleaning products?

While it is a good chain cleaner (due to the solvent it contains) I think your question should read "Is this a chain lube which will replace all other chain lubes?" And my answer to that would be "yes".
Mike, can you share the recipe for your lube please?
 

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A wheelist
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Mike, can you share the recipe for your lube please?
It's very complicated :D -

1 litre of oil (synthetic but I don't think that type, viscosity or anything else matters)
1 litre of mineral spirits (paint thinner).
Mix in a jar.
Pour into a small old chain lube bottle (with drip spout) as needed.
Clean chain with WD-40 sprayed on a rag (backpedal chain thru rag).
Apply one drop per roller (aiming at the plate/roller interface area).
Backpedal thru clean rag to remove excess.
Repeat the last step again the next day when the thinner/carrier has had a chance to evaporate.
 

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From the other threads on this topic I'm clear on the recipe for homebrew chain lube. Before I start using it though, I just want to be clear on it's use:

Do you use GT-85 / WD-40 to flush out the chain before applying the homebrew?

Do you use a shop bought lube after applying the homebew?

Basically, is this a multi-purpose do-it-all product which will replace all other chain cleaning products?
Assuming we're talking road riding, use the following technique for successful ProLink or homebrew lube (1 part motor oil to 3-4 parts odorless mineral spirits) application and use. There is no need for chain cleaners, pre treatment or post lubrication.

1 - wipe the chain, cogs, pulleys, and chain rings clean with a rag. If there is gunk on the cogs, floss between them with a rag wet with OMS.
2 – shift to the big ring and the smallest cog and drip on lube while pedaling slowly so that the chain just starts to drip lube. Aim the lube between the side plates and between the bushings and the side plates.
3 - keep pedaling the cranks for a minute or so to loosen all the dirt on the chain and to get full penetration of the lube.
4 - thoroughly wipe the chain, cogs, pulleys, and chain rings clean with a rag.
5 - repeat steps 2-4 if the chain was really dirty

Do this AFTER a ride, as you want to allow time for the solvent to evaporate before you head out on the road. If you do this every 300 miles or so (or when you get caught in the rain or other dirty conditions), you will not get any significant gunky buildup, and you won't have to remove the chain or the cassette to clean it , and no separate cleaning is ever required. This leaves lube on the inside parts, and wipes it off the outside parts, minimizing dirt pickup.

No lube is "perfect." A bright shiny chain that is clean to the touch but is well lubed and gives long mileage is still not possible. IMO, ProLink/home brew is the best compromise among commercial lubes. Other people have different opinions.
 

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I guess I like my homebrew a little thinner. I can't remember the original recipe, but I usually do mine at 1 part motor oil to 2 parts mineral spirits (sometimes I even do 2 1/2 parts).

I am pretty compulsive about lubing (and wiping down) my chain prior to every ride and afterwards. As a result, I rarely need to use my Park chain cleaner device. I put one drop of homebrew on each roller (I keep a Sharpie handy and mark the first plate so I know when I've lubed the last roller), then run the pedals backwards about 10 times and wipe the chain and jockey wheels off.

The chains on my bikes are all clean, shiny, and quiet, unlike the drivetrains of a lot of guys I ride with. You can hear them squeaking from 20 yards away, while my drivetrain just purrs.
 
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