So today, I went out and got the chain cleaning kit. I cleaned it once with the degreaser, then i used a moist rag to get the degreaser off, then a dry rag. STILL black stuff coming off on my rag. Okay, So i did the process again, and Same thing, just not as dirty. Will it ever get to point where I would rub it with a rag and nothing shows up? Or is this normal and I have some kind of OCD.
How clean is a clean chain?
1 - 20 of 43 Posts
Joined
·
898 Posts
'Clean enough' is how clean the chain should be.
Wipe it with a rag after every ride or two to get the bulk of the grit and grime off of it, don't overlube it and let the lube settle on the inside of the chain and the solvents evaporate from the outside and wipe it one more time before the first ride after lubing it.
Wipe it with a rag after every ride or two to get the bulk of the grit and grime off of it, don't overlube it and let the lube settle on the inside of the chain and the solvents evaporate from the outside and wipe it one more time before the first ride after lubing it.
Joined
·
843 Posts
A truly clean chain is a lie. I once removed my chain frequently and immersed it in a hot paraffin bath until I realized my chains were wearing out much faster than they should because there was NO lube in the rollers. So I went back to Phil. Then I tried Triflow. It was OK but washed off much too quickly. Then I tried paraffin ver. 2.0 - wax lubes (White Litenin, Ice Wax, etc.) and quickly realized they were too similar to using straight paraffin with the added problem of build-up. At that point I settled on Prolink for a while. I used it for a long time partly because all my rides were pretty short and I lived in the desert southwest so not much rain hit my bike. Once I started riding longer rides again, I decided I wanted a lube that stayed there. I went back to Phil for a while. Then I found ChainL. It was what I really was looking for in a lube for the last 25 years. It actually lubricates the chain, it stays there far longer than I ever expected anything to, and it actually sets up tacky and relatively dry (when applied correctly...) Sorry about the testimonial - I'm not usually into that sort of thing. But that's been my experience at home and in the shop.
So the moral of this little story is to worry less about how sparkly clean your chain is as long as your chain is well lubed and wiped free of excess dirt/lube before rides.
Bob
So the moral of this little story is to worry less about how sparkly clean your chain is as long as your chain is well lubed and wiped free of excess dirt/lube before rides.
Bob
Joined
·
63 Posts
The best stuff I found at minimizing filth being picked up and thus keeping my chain looking clean is dupont multi-use dry wax lubricant. I use this lube on my motorcycle as well. It works very well...except when I get caught in the rain. 5 bucks a can at Lowes
Joined
·
197 Posts
amazon has the Dupont Dry Lube too...
http://www.amazon.com/Dupont-Multi-Use-Lubricant-oz-Spray/dp/B000GL19TY
webBikeWorld did a review of it...
http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/motorcycle-chain-lube/dupont-teflon-chain-lube.htm
http://www.amazon.com/Dupont-Multi-Use-Lubricant-oz-Spray/dp/B000GL19TY
webBikeWorld did a review of it...
http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/motorcycle-chain-lube/dupont-teflon-chain-lube.htm
Joined
·
1,479 Posts
My normal regime is to use a removable connector and swish the chain in a container with mineral spirits, rinse with pressurized water, dry, and then lube. Chains should be clean before lubrication, otherwise residual dirt will mix with the lube and effectively create a grinding paste.
When I do use a non-removable chain connection, I usually wipe the chain clean with a rag, lube liberally with Prolink or homebrew, rinse with pressurized water, dry, lube.
I'm quite a chain cleaning freak, but I can't say my mileage is any better than they next guy's.
When I do use a non-removable chain connection, I usually wipe the chain clean with a rag, lube liberally with Prolink or homebrew, rinse with pressurized water, dry, lube.
I'm quite a chain cleaning freak, but I can't say my mileage is any better than they next guy's.
Joined
·
11,684 Posts
grit
I prefer to pull the chain off and soak it, rather than an on the bike chain cleaner gizmo. Those on the bike gizmos can work, but then can make a mess of everything else as you run the chain around throwing dirty degreaser everywhere.
I think the primary goal should be to get the grit out. Grit grinds away at the surfaces, destroying the chain. Appearance is secondary. Some lubes will blacken a chain, but it has nothing to do with being "dirty."SimonChik said:
I prefer to pull the chain off and soak it, rather than an on the bike chain cleaner gizmo. Those on the bike gizmos can work, but then can make a mess of everything else as you run the chain around throwing dirty degreaser everywhere.
Joined
·
843 Posts
The thing about soaking chains is that Shimano and most other quality chain mfrs recommend NOT to do this at all. Some, including Shimano, advocated it for a short while not long ago. But now they say it significantly shortens the life of the chain and we should only use the on-bike methods.Fixed said:
As for making a mess with the chain cleaning devices, you should probably turn the cranks a bit slower and put something like newspapers under your bike when cleaning the chain.
Bob
Joined
·
21,743 Posts
Not really
If you use a decent chain lube, it will easily penetrate the inner surfaces of the chain. If you clean your chain and don't properly lube it then that would be a problem. Using the standard ProLink/home brew application procedure, you get great chain life.Indyfan said:
What Kerry says.
Further, my rule of thumb is that I apply Prolink - usually about 3 times. Usually after every - or every other ride. If the chain is still giving off black residue I repeat - if the chain is giving off opaque gray residue it is as clean as it is going to get with ProLInk
Further, my rule of thumb is that I apply Prolink - usually about 3 times. Usually after every - or every other ride. If the chain is still giving off black residue I repeat - if the chain is giving off opaque gray residue it is as clean as it is going to get with ProLInk
How does this get the grit out of the chain? How do you know that you're not moving more grit deeper into the chain? Can you be sure you're getting all the solvent out of the rollers?Fixed said:
I've tried the soak method, shaking in a jar of solvent and the chain cleaner gizmos. Each method knocks the surface gunk off, but the grit deep in the chain remains. After you put your chain back on the bike and finish lubing it, try rolling the chain sideways between your fingers (rotating the side plates up and down).
When I do this, I can always feel and hear the grit in the chain and its usually worse after cleaning the chain than it was before. I've given up on solvent for the most part. Pro Link and a rag seems to do at least as well with a lot less hassle.
Yes, but this is not the final step. So far, you have loosened and dissolved the gunk with solvent. The chain is still full of grit.arc123 said:
Now, grasp the chain in a folded sponge soaked in soap water (liberally soaped). Pull it through several times. Roll the chain sideways again and listen for grit - you will find it clean. This method works perfectly for me.
Then finally rinse and dry (heat).
Joined
·
11,684 Posts
*really* clean
As a variation of that, I recently needed to clean my gunked up mtb chain really well. I soaked it in citrus degreaser, then rinsed with water, then laid it out on cardboard and blasted it with a high pressure nozzle of compressed air. Amazing all the gunk that continued to come out with the air pressure.Pieter said:
1 - 20 of 43 Posts
Join the discussion
