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· 35mph Average
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi folks , i've recently got a new trek madone 5.2 frame 54cm and changed all my dura ace stuff over from my old trek oclv us postal 54cm , the trouble is the frames are slightly different and i measured a few sizes before i stripped my old bike but i just can't seem to get the right position on my new one, on my old bike i was averaging 34 miles per hour for 1 hour on my turbo , but on my new frame i'm struggling to keep it above 30 miles pr hour for the hour, so how do i find my correct position :confused:
 

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The bike mechanic at REI told me that he can measure me and tell me if I am sitting right on my bike. I have NOT done it yet but I probably should since, I think my bike needs to be adjusted so I sit better when I ride. I am sure most bike shops would be able to help you with that.
 

· Lemur-ing
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shades9323 said:
It must be nice to have to never ride UP any hills...
It's nicer if you ride down hills for one solid hour too. Too bad I never have that terrain here.
 

· Lemur-ing
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You are joking about your 34mph right or it has to be downhill? Coz even Fabian Cancellera can't do that at times. :eek:

Wait, on your turbo? What's that?

Nevermind. If bike tubes are all the same length, there is no reason why your position is different had you measured it properly(or LBS did it)
 

· 35mph Average
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237 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
my turbo is a tacx sirrius soft gel turbo trainer, and yeh it's dam hard trying to keep this pace for 1 hour , before i changed frames my average was 34mph or more for the hour now i'm stuggling to keep it above 30mph , i think i've changed my position , and can't seem to get it correct at present .
 

· Lemur-ing
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joker said:
my turbo is a tacx sirrius soft gel turbo trainer, and yeh it's dam hard trying to keep this pace for 1 hour , before i changed frames my average was 34mph or more for the hour now i'm stuggling to keep it above 30mph , i think i've changed my position , and can't seem to get it correct at present .

More than half the field of the Giro d'Italia cant even keep 30mph for HALF an hour.

Are you Fabian Cancellera? If so, you must already know the solution to your 'problem' unless you went too fast and had a crash that scrambled your senses and in the process, it also granted you superhuman powers and riding ability even the world's best riders dream of.

Of course, if you lived in the Himalayas and rode downhill all day long and take a helicopter to the top to get back home, this is reasonable.
 

· just ride your bike
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I think "34mph" is possible since the OP is on a trainer, thus there is no air resistance to fight. But then, you're only making your tire revolve through 34 miles in an hour, since you don't actually go anywhere.
 

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Did you take the critical measurements off your old bike so you could set up your new bike the same way? There's a guide to this somewhere on the web, but the basic measurements are the position of the seat (height and fore/aft relationship to the pedals), the overall reach from the saddle to the handlebars, the drop from the seat to the handlebars and the way the brake levers are set up on the handlebars. If those things are the same, your bike should fit the same. It won't necessarily ride the same (ON ACTUAL ROADS!), but should feel the same on a trainer.

Just found the link: http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=72. If that doesn't get you there, go to the parktool website, go to the stems and seatpost "region" and look for it.

Another PS: I just looked closely at the parktool website an encourage you not to get too hung up if you don't have all the tools they are using. It really can be done with a tape measure and a good eye. Second tool would be a level which you can use to set horizontal and vertical lines for measurements.

I'm sure you understand that the most likely thing you'll need to replace is the stem if the top tube length, seat tube angle and head tube angle are different from the old bike to the new one. Also the head tube length may affect saddle-bar drop so your spacers and/or stem angle might have to change. That's why you need the measurements.
 

· 35mph Average
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
uzziefly , this speed is on a turbo trainer and not the road , there is a huge difference , and nothing superhuman about it, i'm just trying to find my correct riding position, isn't there a bike shop somewhwere that puts a sticker on your bike when they measure somone for their riding position ?the same shop rents out top of the range bikes and takes the price of rental off when a purchase is made on a bike ?
 

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lost position...

Anyone with brains would record all the critical dimensions, before disassembling an old bike and transfering parts. Since you didn't do that, there is no way to recover what you've lost.

You can start over with the rough guidelines for saddle height and fore/aft position. Set the saddle height so your foot is horizontal with your leg locked out at the bottom of the stroke. The saddle fore/aft position requires the bike to be sitting level. Then a plumb bob is dropped from the front of the knee to the front of the crankarm (Andy Pruitt's method). This will get you in the ball park. You have to fine tune from there.

What are you doing riding a trainer this time of year?
 

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I can spin the rear wheel at 60mph with my bike on a repair stand, using only one crank, and using my hand! :D
 

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C-40 said:
Anyone ...would record all the critical dimensions, before disassembling an old bike and transfering parts. Since you didn't do that, there is no way to recover what you've lost.

You can start over with the rough guidelines for saddle height and fore/aft position. .... You have to fine tune from there. QUOTE]

If he still has the old frame, he could probably just put the old seat post and saddle on it and maybe get it into the exact position he liked on the old bike - saddle rails probably have marks on them. Then, if he just put the old stem on there, he could probably get at least the basics measured: saddle height, position relative to crank spindle (center of BB), reach from tip of saddle to center of handlebar clamp, and drop from saddle to top of handlebar clamp.

C-40 said:
...What are you doing riding a trainer this time of year?
That's a good question.
 

· Lemur-ing
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joker said:
uzziefly , this speed is on a turbo trainer and not the road , there is a huge difference , and nothing superhuman about it, i'm just trying to find my correct riding position, isn't there a bike shop somewhwere that puts a sticker on your bike when they measure somone for their riding position ?the same shop rents out top of the range bikes and takes the price of rental off when a purchase is made on a bike ?
Still... Is the resistance like close to nothing or something?

You didn't measure critical numbers of your old bike like saddle tip to center of bars and such so no, there is no way you can get the exact old position but a bike fit will help you achieve a good position.
 

· 35mph Average
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237 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
thanks folks , i did take all the measurements before strip down, but my missus was tidying up and threw out my bit paper, c40 i ride my trainer every night 1hour in the raceing season, uzzie the resistance can be set from easy to hard i have mine on 3 from easy and it's very painful to do a 34mph average , last night i lowered my seat and die 32.6 mph average this is improving, i have ordered a longer stem , i got the riding dimentions from competative cyclist website,i'm getting there ttfn
 
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