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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My current bars are 42cm. They are too twitchy on the descends. I think I need a 44cm. Are there any other adjustments that can be made? I think i need to try out several differnent bars. Some 44cm are too wide and some are just right. I guess each mfr use different guidelines to measure.
 

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Some measure center to center and some measure outside to outside. It's best to check out the mfg website to find out.
 

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Do narrower bars actually have something to do with the handling of a bike? I always thought that depended more on frame geometry and fork rake than on the handlebar width. I would guess that the stem might play a little into it, but I wouldn't think it mattered too much.
 

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Twitchy?

Roubaixcomp said:
My current bars are 42cm. They are too twitchy on the descends. I think I need a 44cm. Are there any other adjustments that can be made? I think i need to try out several differnent bars. Some 44cm are too wide and some are just right. I guess each mfr use different guidelines to measure.
Are you regularly trying to steer your bike with the bars during descents? Otherwise, it's pretty hard to see how wider or narrower bars would affect handling. That would be a lot more about steering geometry and wheel base, etc. I think you're pursuing the wrong concept.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Perhaps I didn't make myself clear.

Kerry Irons said:
Are you regularly trying to steer your bike with the bars during descents? Otherwise, it's pretty hard to see how wider or narrower bars would affect handling. That would be a lot more about steering geometry and wheel base, etc. I think you're pursuing the wrong concept.
I didn't mean that i steer the whole way down. The bar gets twitchy right before I get ready to descend. I believe a wider bar would diminish this. I also failed to mention the width of the bar relatively to the width of my shoulders seem too narrow. I would like to figure this out before i drop some serious cash on a new carbon bar.
 

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Roubaixcomp said:
My current bars are 42cm. They are too twitchy on the descends. I think I need a 44cm. Are there any other adjustments that can be made? I think i need to try out several differnent bars. Some 44cm are too wide and some are just right. I guess each mfr use different guidelines to measure.

You won't know until you get wider ones, and say 'damn, that just feels better'.

After riding my bike for about 5 years with the OE comps on it, I got a fit done, and one of the recs was wider bars. I think I went from 42 to 44 or 46(?), and the diff was dramatic. The difference could also be put down to the fact that I got a new stem and fork along with the bars, too.
 

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Once you go wide... you never go back. I ride 46's on my main bike and I love the feel.

On my "2nd" bike I have 44s and while they're ok for cruising along, I can feel the difference when honking out of the saddle; I just have to work harder to control the front end of the bike to lay down power.

Re: "handling" I think they make a big difference in feel; which to me is a big part of how I perceive the handling of a bike.

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Problem is every mfr measures differently.

murbike said:
You won't know until you get wider ones, and say 'damn, that just feels better'.

After riding my bike for about 5 years with the OE comps on it, I got a fit done, and one of the recs was wider bars. I think I went from 42 to 44 or 46(?), and the diff was dramatic. The difference could also be put down to the fact that I got a new stem and fork along with the bars, too.
I'll have to go to several shops and try them on. Dawnting task.
 

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I changed mine cause it was twitchy and difficult to control on the downhill. I had 40cm on mine and went to 44 which is my actual shoulder width

NIGHT AND DAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I dont feel like Im going to lay it down now, complete control
 

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Why would you drop some serious cash on a new carbon bar????
Do you believe that carbon bars are "better" than Aluminum??.....Don't.
You can get some nice bars for $50. You can get some nice bars that are lightweight for less than $100.....Remember....Lightweight means....replace more often.
 

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I'm gonna be the odd man out here and say that maybe a longer stem might cure some of the twitchiness? I think a wide bar definitely helps, but I've noticed that my steering has gotten smoother and more predictable with a longer stem, and I'll save shorter stems for things like a commuting MTB where I'm not going too fast, and it helps to be able to twitch in traffic.

I know a longer stem means revisiting the bike fit and everything, but it might be worth looking into, since it's easier to swap in a different stem, just to try it out.
 

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Uber-Stupid is getting brighter

I agree with him. i had a 60mm stem that would wobble like an SOB. However, if it was at a negative angle (sloping down as opposed to sloping up) there were no more wobbles. Longer stem+Negative slope= no more wobbles. But new bars are something to consider if you feel as though they are too narrow. Narrow handlebars will impede your ability to breathe properly. In response to to Grumpys comment on aluminum bars, My Easton EC-70 Ergo wing bars are the best 180 bucks I've ever spent and they will certainly last longer than aluminum given that they won't oxidize into aluminum powder with salty sweat dripping off of them. Go carbon, it's more comfortable, more compliant and inert. Free ions are bad!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks for all the advice.

I will go with a more negative stem, but i don't want to lengthen it since it is a perfect fit for me. My stem length is 90mm. Then swap out my bars for a 44cm c-c measurement. I've noticed some mfr measures end to end.
 

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I suggest you go on ebay or closeout type dealers and buy some cheap aluminum bars in the size/shape you want to experiment with. For example, you can find the lower end Easton alu bars (EA30 and 50) for very cheap on ebay - $10-$25. Give the new width a try and then spend the coin on whatever higher end bars you want.

Make sure that you know how your current bars are measured (c-c, vs. o-o) and make sure the replacements correspond properly. For the most part, 42 c-c = 44 o-o.
 

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?

MR_GRUMPY said:
Why would you drop some serious cash on a new carbon bar????
Do you believe that carbon bars are "better" than Aluminum??.....Don't.
You can get some nice bars for $50. You can get some nice bars that are lightweight for less than $100.....Remember....Lightweight means....replace more often.
FWIW- All the miles that I have ridden carbon bars on rocky, root filled trails on my mountain bike at high speeds, never had one single issue. That said, they were always good quality bars-Easton EC70s. I know that a quality carbon road bar will handle the hellish environment of smooth blacktop like a champ.:D

aluminum bars= beating rocks together to make fire.....:thumbsup:
 

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rkb said:
FWIW- All the miles that I have ridden carbon bars on rocky, root filled trails on my mountain bike at high speeds, never had one single issue. That said, they were always good quality bars-Easton EC70s. I know that a quality carbon road bar will handle the hellish environment of smooth blacktop like a champ.:D

aluminum bars= beating rocks together to make fire.....:thumbsup:
But was your bike full carbon too? :D

Seriously though, stem length and wheel base has much more to do that bars in terms of handling, lest you're steering all the time while descending etc.

As far as bars, good bar tape dampens the buzz too. And is cheaper :wink:
 
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