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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'm thinking of the Mt Washington, 7.6 miles, 4700' climb at 12%. Do you raise/lower your saddle, your bar, shorten the stem or set your saddle back or forward? I know that shaving off a few pounds makes a difference but really don't know how to change position to get the most out of my effort.
Any suggestions would be helpful.
 

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I'd change nothing about my current setup, since it works well for me.

I can see the possibility of raising the bars a bit, since you'll be going slower and deep breathing might be easier.
 

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If you aren't a great climber, a triple (or at least compact) crank may be more appropriate than the standard 53/39. You can also go to a 12-27 or 28 gear in the back, too.

Lightweight wheels could help a bit, too.

Otherwise, losing a couple of pounds between now & then as well as practicing some sustained climbs are about the most you could do.
 

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Ugh, I know this feeling.

I came face to face with an 18% average, 26% max wall today.

I only made it 3/4 of the way up before I cracked. :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
actually the setup for this one will be

Andrea138 said:
If you aren't a great climber, a triple (or at least compact) crank may be more appropriate than the standard 53/39. You can also go to a 12-27 or 28 gear in the back, too.

Lightweight wheels could help a bit, too.

Otherwise, losing a couple of pounds between now & then as well as practicing some sustained climbs are about the most you could do.
sub 1400 gram wheels, supersonics (tires & tubes about 400 grams for the pair), single 26/28 front ring 12/28 DA cassette, FSA crank arms with titanium BB, and so on to try and get under 13 or 14 #s. I will even give up the STI shifters and levers & use a DA downtube shifter, no FD, and only one brake. And yes my weight is 165, (down from 180) and I hope to loose another 5 pounds by race time. I am training on some hills and doing some stairclimbing to built it up a bit.
 

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jiggs said:
I'm thinking of the Mt Washington, 7.6 miles, 4700' climb at 12%. Do you raise/lower your saddle, your bar, shorten the stem or set your saddle back or forward? I know that shaving off a few pounds make a difference but really don't know how to change position to get the most out of my effort.
Any suggestions would be helpful.
I wouldn't change my fit, as I believe it to be just fine as is, and tilting the bike doesn't change biodynamics much at all. Also, my bike handles just fine on the steeps, so nothing that warrants a change there, either. That said, I tend to ride a bit low and forward anyway, so a tilt would only make me more normal.

Assuming your fit is correct already, the goal would be to rotate the bike underneath you. That would mean a saddle a bit forward and up (no net change to leg extension) and bars a bit out and down - though since we're talking climbing, I'd probably skip the down part, and if you're currently biased to aero rather than power, perhaps the out, too.
 

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jiggs said:
sub 1400 gram wheels, supersonics (tires & tubes about 400 grams for the pair), single 26/28 front ring 12/28 DA cassette, FSA crank arms with titanium BB, and so on to try and get under 13 or 14 #s. I will even give up the STI shifters and levers & use a DA downtube shifter, no FD, and only one brake. And yes my weight is 165, (down from 180) and I hope to loose another 5 pounds by race time. I am training on some hills and doing some stairclimbing to built it up a bit.
Sounds like you've got everything covered! Practice will help you more than anything now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
pretty extreme stuff. The Mt. Washington is about

robdamanii said:
Ugh, I know this feeling.

I came face to face with an 18% average, 26% max wall today.

I only made it 3/4 of the way up before I cracked. :(
12% average over 7.6 miles, but does get up to 22.5 % at the end for a short bit. There is only the climb up, everybody comes down in a car or van.
 

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Sick. Absolutely sick.

One day, I hope to be doing that and making it all the way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
that is kinda what I was thinking, to get the seat a bit

danl1 said:
I wouldn't change my fit, as I believe it to be just fine as is, and tilting the bike doesn't change biodynamics much at all. Also, my bike handles just fine on the steeps, so nothing that warrants a change there, either. That said, I tend to ride a bit low and forward anyway, so a tilt would only make me more normal.

Assuming your fit is correct already, the goal would be to rotate the bike underneath you. That would mean a saddle a bit forward and up (no net change to leg extension) and bars a bit out and down - though since we're talking climbing, I'd probably skip the down part, and if you're currently biased to aero rather than power, perhaps the out, too.
forward and higher. I often climb on my MTB on the rivet or front of the saddle which makes the position a little more perpendicular if that is the right word, more up and down.
thanks for the info
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
It's been about 6 years since last time and now that you

magnolialover said:
Remember as well, the road is mostly dirt and loose gravel. It ain't paved up there.
mention it maybe Conti supersonic might not be the tire to ride. Saving a few grams could be a disaster if I flatted on that gravel. It sounds like you been there, when did you last ride it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I booked when registration first opened and I also got

zpl said:
Are you already signed up for the Mt. Washington hillclimb? The race slots are full for this year, and it's always a mad dash to register.
got a spot in the practise ride this month although it is going to hard to make that ride because I live about 10 hours drive from Mount Washinton.
 

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Last did it...

jiggs said:
mention it maybe Conti supersonic might not be the tire to ride. Saving a few grams could be a disaster if I flatted on that gravel. It sounds like you been there, when did you last ride it?
I last did it, I think it was, 1997 maybe, yeah, 97. I rode my mountain bike at the time, mostly because my road bike was a POS.

I would go with a little heavier tire, since the roads are sketchy at best, and can flat your wheels pretty easily if you hit the right rocks, that being said, you are going slow up the mountain, so pinch flats and things like that aren't going to really happen. If possible, get something with a little bit of a tread pattern on it, not like a cross tire, but something with a little grip, it'll help, a lot. I've moved to NC and this past week have been on many a steep climb on dirt, and the Michelin Pro Race tires I've got on my rig now don't help at all. Great when on the pavement, crap for riding in the dirt.

Also, bring a wide selection of clothing. You never know what the weather is going to be like on top of Mt Washington. I speak from experience, not just from riding it, but having lived near there for many years, and having either been on the top of, or near the top of the mountain in many different seasons, and in many different conditions, never know what's going to happen on that hill. I was on top of the mountain once in August, and got snowed on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
I was driver in 99 & it snowed at the top, & rode it in 02

magnolialover said:
I last did it, I think it was, 1997 maybe, yeah, 97. I rode my mountain bike at the time, mostly because my road bike was a POS.
never know what's going to happen on that hill. I was on top of the mountain once in August, and got snowed on.
Tyler won it in 99. I think I will stay away from the supersonics because they are pretty easy to flat.
 
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