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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My front Chorus hub was making some grinding noises so I decided to overhual it figuring some dirt or loss of grease. Surprised to see that the cones of both side were shredded up a bit like someone took a rasp to them. What could have caused this? Bad (tight) adjustment? large bump?

Question: I plan to replace the races also. How do I remove these from the hub?
 

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Cones and bearings can be replaced. If the races are galled you will need a new hub. (I do not think the the races on newer Campy hubs can be replaced)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
appears to have removable race

MR_GRUMPY said:
Cones and bearings can be replaced. If the races are galled you will need a new hub. (I do not think the the races on newer Campy hubs can be replaced)
These are Chorus hubs from the early 2000's. They appear to have a removable race although I am not sure how easy its going to be to get it out. I ordered new cones and races today. Any advice and removing the race?
 

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My suggestion to you

DaveG said:
These are Chorus hubs from the early 2000's. They appear to have a removable race although I am not sure how easy its going to be to get it out. I ordered new cones and races today. Any advice and removing the race?
As cup replacement can be tricky and difficult to get the cups in aligned properly, you might do a thorough examination of your existing cups. You will likely find that they are pristeen and sparkly shiny. If so, put your new cups on the shelf in a baggie. Install your new cups so that there is a very slight shake with the Q/R open, then see if it barely goes away withh the Q/R tight. If the cones were too tight and/or there was water infiltration into the hub,, that could be the cause of the cone death. I suggest that you avoid riding in a paceline on a rainy day, as the rear wheel in front of you is spraying water like a hose full of sandy water on that hub. I have checked freshly rebuilt Campy hubs after a rainy group ride, and there was water contamination inside the hub.
As to installing the cups, I would make pressing tools that guarranted perfect alignment of the cups to the hub, but unless you are a machinist, you are not likely to do that. I am sure that the factory has a special jig in a press for installing the cups. Alignment is quite critical and Mr. Hammer and Punch isn't hacking it
 

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curlybike said:
Install your new cups so that there is a very slight shake with the Q/R open, then see if it barely goes away withh the Q/R tight.
Definitely, for some reason, hubs seem to be adjusted too tight from the factory and many times, they don't get loosened to the correct adjustment.
 

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Of course, if you had the bare hub, you could completely degrease it, and place it in an oven at 250 DEG F and let it come up to temp for about 30 minutes. With a thick glove remove the hub and tap each end on a flat surface that is padded by a towel, and the steel cup should fall out. The AL hub grows more in the heat than the steel and it should not be holding the cup. Now if it does not fall out, try pulling it out with a spoke formed into a hook. If this does not work, go up to 300.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
thanks

curlybike said:
As cup replacement can be tricky and difficult to get the cups in aligned properly, you might do a thorough examination of your existing cups. You will likely find that they are pristeen and sparkly shiny. If so, put your new cups on the shelf in a baggie. Install your new cups so that there is a very slight shake with the Q/R open, then see if it barely goes away withh the Q/R tight. If the cones were too tight and/or there was water infiltration into the hub,, that could be the cause of the cone death. I suggest that you avoid riding in a paceline on a rainy day, as the rear wheel in front of you is spraying water like a hose full of sandy water on that hub. I have checked freshly rebuilt Campy hubs after a rainy group ride, and there was water contamination inside the hub.
As to installing the cups, I would make pressing tools that guarranted perfect alignment of the cups to the hub, but unless you are a machinist, you are not likely to do that. I am sure that the factory has a special jig in a press for installing the cups. Alignment is quite critical and Mr. Hammer and Punch isn't hacking it
Thanks. I did check it out and indeed the outer races look fine both visually and when running a finger through. I don't plan to replace them now. Plus after realizing the cost of replacing all that it would far exceed the cost of a new hub. The cones though are badly torn up and and will replace them
 

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I used to have to rebuild hubs with new balls and cones every other year, but haven't had to do it since 1988.
 

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Hub adjustment

curlybike said:
Install your new cups so that there is a very slight shake with the Q/R open, then see if it barely goes away withh the Q/R tight.
Not necessary, since you can adjust the cones after the QR has been clamped. But agree with the consensus that likely the original hub was set too tight, so the OP should be sure to have the bearing adjustment "just shy of having a bit of play" to prevent this happening again. From years of experience, NEVER trust the bearing adjustment as it comes from the factory.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
lesson learned

Kerry Irons said:
NEVER trust the bearing adjustment as it comes from the factory.
I never thought to check the adjustment when I bought the wheelset. Its a shame since the Campy OS hubs are very easy to adjust. I did overhual the rear hub also and that was fine. A costly mistake
 

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Kerry Irons said:
Not necessary, since you can adjust the cones after the QR has been clamped. But agree with the consensus that likely the original hub was set too tight, so the OP should be sure to have the bearing adjustment "just shy of having a bit of play" to prevent this happening again. From years of experience, NEVER trust the bearing adjustment as it comes from the factory.
AS I remember, you almost have to loosen the adjustment and tap the axle end so that it is loose and then tighten the cone while the wheel is in the frame/fork until you get the proper feel. Have you found a new style Campy hub that you can loosen and make shaky without doing that? Just curious.
 

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If you have a campagnolo pro-shop locally, they would have the tools to press in your cups. I've had this done due to a pitted cup on my cross wheels.

I adjust the cones while wheels is clamped in the fork. Back off and give it a knock to loosen, then tighten gradually until no play is felt. Check by wiggling the rim at the brake pads, you'll feel play if it is there. Turn the wheel and check at multiple points.

When you take the wheel off, you'll notice that the axle has a bit of play...this is perfect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
plan to skip cup replacement

Spunout said:
If you have a campagnolo pro-shop locally, they would have the tools to press in your cups. I've had this done due to a pitted cup on my cross wheels.

I adjust the cones while wheels is clamped in the fork. Back off and give it a knock to loosen, then tighten gradually until no play is felt. Check by wiggling the rim at the brake pads, you'll feel play if it is there. Turn the wheel and check at multiple points.

When you take the wheel off, you'll notice that the axle has a bit of play...this is perfect.
Thanks but on second look the cups do appear to be fine. The cones are toast though. Replacing the cups and cones would easily exceed the cost of a new hub. Campy parts are always available, but they are never cheap!
 

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$15 each for cups. Plus I have old shiney record hubs, not the ugly black new ones.

cones...easy to replace, the fixed-side just slips off. No pressing or pulling required (for me anyways).
 

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Cone adjustment

curlybike said:
AS I remember, you almost have to loosen the adjustment and tap the axle end so that it is loose and then tighten the cone while the wheel is in the frame/fork until you get the proper feel. Have you found a new style Campy hub that you can loosen and make shaky without doing that? Just curious.
I generally start out a little loose and tighten up. This has worked well on both Record and Chorus hubs. If they loosen slightly on the ride, then I tighten a bit more when I get home.
 
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