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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I usually do a handful of TTs each year...for some reason I really enjoy the pain. I bought my Cervelo Soloist with the sole intention of being able to swap between road & TT configurations which has proven to be relatively simple & successful. I even bought a disc wheel cover from to give me an "aero" rear wheel, but whenever I hear that "whorl" of a carbon disc I get goosebumps.
So I found one listed on eBay, an older HED with a 7 speed freewheel. Guy that was selling it didn't know anything about it (looks like he mostly sells hand tools) and listed it as 24 inch, not 700 or 650 so there weren't many bidders. Some quick math and I find out a 700 (622mm ERD) is right about 24" so I take a leap and figure if it's a 650 wheel some tri-guy will take it off my hands :) I haven't seen any carbon discs go for under $250 on eBay or less than $500 on Craigslist, even older freewheel models, so when I ended up winning it for $90, needless to say I was pretty stoked. The friendly UPS man delivered it yesterday, it was excellently packaged, and as soon as I pulled it out I could tell it was a 700 wheel. SCORE! And came with a tire. DOUBLE SCORE! And a Campy Record skewer. COULD THIS GET ANY BETTER?
Now my question(s) and I apologize for the length of this post...
1. My aluminum Soloist is 130mm rear wheel spacing, this wheel is 126mm. What's the best way to handle this? Simplest is to just squeeze the frame, lots of people including the late great Sheldon Brown talk about adjusting spacing out, but no one talks about spacing in! With aluminum, how much of an issue would 4mm be? The axle is long enough so I could add a 2mm spacer to both sides (or a 4mm spacer to one--but how would that affect alignment?) The most complicated (and expensive) would be to check with HED to see if they sell an axle upgrade kit.
2. How do I tell if I actually have a HED wheel and what model wheel do I have? I was checking it out last night and noticed that the big HED. decals on both sides are a dark blue instead of black, and that on the non-drive side there is a sticker wrapped around the bearing housing, but there isn't anything permanent that identifies it as a HED. Not that I'm too worried about a "knockoff" wheel, but if anyone has any information on identifying the model (should I end up contacting HED) I'm all ears.
3. This bad boy has an old tubular tire on it and since I've never had tubulars, I don't know any of the particulars. It still holds air so I figure I will use it for short trips around the house as I dial in the shifting (luckily I've been using old 7 speed Suntour bar end shifters in friction mode with my Campy 10sp) but I'm assuming you just rip the old tire off when I decide to replace it? What solvent do I use to get the glue (or tape residue) off? Finally, what's a reasonably good tubular TT tire and should I use glue or tape?
4. The freewheel is a Shimano 7sp with 12-19 cogs. There's some writing in script on the first cog that looks like saine or sanie but I've never heard reference of this. The teeth on the cogs are straight--no ramping or indexing cutouts like you see on modern cassettes. Any suggestions on drivetrain? Are there ramped or 8sp freewheels out there? I figure I'll need to use a different chain (currently using a 10sp Wipperman) but I have an old 8sp chain left over from a 9sp upgrade.

Thanks for the advice~

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You don't need to remove the old glue, unless it's very thick and has big chunks missing. The new glue will soften it up just fine.
To make the wheel fit better in a 130mm frame, you can add 1mm washers under the lock nuts. Two should be enough. I put 4 on one 126mm wheel, and it worked, but there was little axle to spare to align the wheel.

I got the same sort of "good deal" when I got a Specialized Tri-Spoke for $100. It was a freewheel type, but the seller didn't know that it could easily be converted into a front wheel, with an axle kit.
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