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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm in the process of picking hubs for my Stan's Grail wheel build. Any feedback on i9 hubs for disc wheels. Mostly gravel racing and some road use. I weigh 185 lbs. thanks
 

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I've got two sets of I9 Torch road/disc hubs, nothing but good things to say about them. Good quality, light weight, quick engagement for technical sections and compatibility with all the relevant axle standards.
 

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They are quite nice. They have particularly good bearing seals, and are a pretty simple but very durable design. Long time forum participants will accurately accuse me of being something of a homer for WI hubs, but we've had great experience with I9s since we started to work with them earlier this year. You get to choose center lock or 6 bolt as your preference, changing axle formats is cheap and easy should you need to, and they have awesome colors. I have lime green on my mountain bike, which is a big hit. Not inexpensive, but very good hubs. The company is awesome to work with, too.
 

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I'm not sure if they were the same ones you are looking at but FYI the I9's I've seen in action on a few group rides were were REALLY loud.
You may want to look into that part of the equation if it's anything you would care about.
I'm definitely not trying to say I know for fact I9 disc hubs are crazy loud. But some of their hubs definitely are.
 

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Curmudgeon
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I'm a long time Hadley fan and have three sets in MTB use.
I recently built up a road wheel set using Industry Nine Classic Road hubs. My experience tells me they have much more drag than Hadley, even after 500 miles. I removed their Teflon seals that are inside the axle end caps which helped a little. The only thing about i9 hubs that bothers me is they have no bearing preload adjustment feature. Chris King, Hadley, Mavic, and other brands have a method for adjusting the bearing preload which I think is important. I really believe the drag on my rear road wheel is due to improper bearing preload. If I loosen the QR skewer they spin very well. The front wheel spins well regardless of QR tension.

-S
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks. I have White Industries T11 hubs on my road bike (they are great) but wanted to try something different for the cross/gravel bike.
 

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CX'er
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I will concur on the noise volume, at least for the mtb version. I believe they cut the engagement points in half for road hubs but there's still a lot there I imagine. It's not loud like there's no grease in there, they're loud because they never stop hitting engagement points.

They've been good for me but I've only had them for a year and a half or so, so hardly a long time for quality hubs. I don't know I've heard anything negative about them beyond the noise and the cost.
 

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Curmudgeon
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To add to my comments above, I really only notice any drag when my bike is in the stand. The wheel slows down fairly fast. However when out on the road I don't think it's really much of an issue. Perhaps in time the bearings will loosen up and spin forever in the bike stand.
As for the free hub noise, I kind of like it. It's a nice buzzing sound but not overly loud. I've opened them up and applied some Teflon oil to the pawls, became totally silent for a while. Four rides later and the buzzing returns.
Overall I'm satisfied with the i9 hubs. I'd get them again but also consider some King R45 hubs. They might be a little bit better.

-S
 

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I've got WI, I9s, DT, Hope and Bitex hubs. I just like the variety, all good choices. The I9 road hubs do 'only' have 60 POE (6d engagement) vs 120 (3d) on the mtn hubs, so yes, they are noisy. No issues with drag, free spin under QR tension or otherwise. Maybe your particular hub has an issue?? I've got two sets and they both feel great. They don't spin like my Whites when in my hands, but under my weight on the road I can't tell the difference.
 

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Thanks. I have White Industries T11 hubs on my road bike (they are great) but wanted to try something different for the cross/gravel bike.
They probably wouldn't qualify as different for you but White MI5 hubs are a great choice for cross/gravel. White recommended them to me over the T11 for that use. Not that breaking a hub is a real concern with the T11 (unless maybe if you're really heavy) but the MI5s are a bit more beefed up with off road in mind.
 

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I've got a guy that has broken the DS flange on two T11 rear hubs. Not a particularly heavy guy, but he doesn't 'ride light' either.

I love my T11s, but I like the variety too. And since they are all nice hubs, why not? If the XMRs had been available at the time, I may have gone that way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for the feedback I pulled the trigger on the i9 hubs only to find out that i9 doesn't make a RD/CX disc hub for an XD driver. I have thru axles on my cross/gravel bike and was told to try the mtn bike hubs. I use my bike for rides/races ranging from single track to 120 mile grinders with tons of steep climbs.
Any disadvantages to using the 120 POE/6 pawl hub set?
Thanks
 

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If you give up the 10 in favor of an 11, you can do an XT 11-42. I've tried it both ways and don't miss the 10T at all.
 

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Curmudgeon
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You can remove one set of the pawls to make your i9 hub 60 POE. They use two sets of three pawls which are 3 degrees out of phase to achieve 120 POE.
My Classic Road hubs came with a spare pawl and spring (tiny) so I know they are user serviceable.

-S
 
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