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All I have to do is remove the outer link in the pic and use the two Connex pieces? Is that all there is to it?

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Assuming you have the Connex link designed for your chain, after you have measured the chain to the proper length for your drivetrain (existing chain is the best guide), then remove one additional link, as you picture, and install the Connex link to join the two ends of the chain. That's all there is to it.
 

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not quite...

cdhbrad said:
Assuming you have the Connex link designed for your chain, after you have measured the chain to the proper length for your drivetrain (existing chain is the best guide), then remove one additional link, as you picture, and install the Connex link to join the two ends of the chain. That's all there is to it.

There are several methods for determining chain length that may give different results. The only one that ensures the maximum wrap capacity from the RD requires the chain to be wrapped through the RD in the small/small combo. Adjust the length to the maximum that causes some movement of the RD cage when the ends are brought together and does not allow the chain to rub on the upper chain guide tab. The big/big plus one inch method only suggests this length with the largest possible cog on the cassette.

As for the connex link, the only one that fits properly is the no longer made 10S1 model. The newer model will still work, but it is a sloppy fit. Others that fit better are SRAM 10 powerloc, Forster superlink model 4 and a special version of the KMC missing link made just for the Campy UN chain.

The connex link is directional. When you replace the two outer plates at the end of the chain, the slotted end of the plate facing you, on th elower section of chain, as viewed from the right side of the bike, should point to the back of the bike.
 

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if your chain is skipping when in the 11 or 12 in back, the connex link is in backwards.
 
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