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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok I reciently bought a new Trek 1600.
http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/2007/archive/1600

For what I paid I think I got a great bike (1000). BUT, it seams kind of heavy. Especially when I pick up other bikes in local shops. Could it be that my frame is of lesser quality? I have good components 105 and up. Perhaps the wheels are heavy. What would you recommend if I want to lighten the bike up a little. Also please comment on the quality frame..

I almost bought a specialized at the same price point but it had lesser components.. Did I sacrifice my frame for my components? Hard to get everything for $ 1G....

Thanks-
 

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The Dropped 1
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It's not gonna be as light as a $2k carbon frame with Record parts, but doesn't mean it's too heavy.

Just ride it and enjoy it! If you must, usually getting lighter wheels is the best way to drop weight. But, unless you are at a target weight or below it's cheaper to lose weight from yourself than the bike :)
 

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duh...
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take off the seat bag, pedals, bottles, etc. and weight it again... oh, and put helium in the tires like they do in shops to make their bikes seem lighter
 

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I am no Guide
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The bike spec seems perfectly reasonable for it's price point.

Taking weight off the bike is really expensive.

It's cheep and easy to take weight off the rider.

Just get out and ride.

I have a Specialized Allez Sport Double that weighs about 19lbs. I ride with people that have all kinds of different bikes from Cervelos and Quintana Roos to Schwins. They all look feel and ride differently, but in the end we all ride together not worrying about each different set up, and who's bike weighs what.

If you do want to make a difference look at changing out the Wheel Set first...

Good Luck.
 

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105 is nice. It is overall a fine bike for the price. If you want to make it lighter, you can swap any component on that bike for a lighter one. There's really not many components on there that you can't make significantly lighter if you want to, just take your pick. As most have said, though, it's really not worth it. Just enjoy, and start saving your pennies for a nicer bike in a few years. After that time, you'll have some cash. You may or may not want to sink it in another bike at that point. If you do, you'll have enough to get what you want, if you don't, you'll have a nice stash of mad money to spend on whatever else you want or need at that point.
 

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Generally, weight mostly matters when climbing, and to a lesser degree when accelerating, such as when starting from a stop. In climbing it is the total combined weight of the bike and the rider that affects the top limit of how fast you can climb. A four pound difference in bike weight, which could be a whooping 25% difference in comparison to other bikes, might be just a 2-3% difference in the combined weight of you and either of those bikes.

That 2-3% difference correlates to the difference in speed that you can climb at a given effort. For closely matched racers, that can be build up to a big time difference over a climb. For non-racers, who are rarely climbing at full effort, that 2-3% difference amounts either to a minimal time difference in a recreational ride climb or 2-3% more effort to achieve the same time. In some really, really long recreational rides, that extra effort or time can be an issue, but generally it won't be.

In short...unless you are racing, the extra weight will not have any material affect on your riding. It will either slow you by a few percent on climbs or accelerations, or will give you a a bit better workout by that same percentage.

I'd ride your bike for a couple years before thinking about spending money to drop its weight.
 

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I got a Specialized tarmac Comp that weighed 18.1lbs stock with pedals and set bag.
I got a set of Xero XR1s off of ebay for $230 shipped. They're all over ebay. The stock wheels weighed 1884g and the Xeros were 1540g for a difference of 340g which equates 3/4 lb difference(there's 453g/lb). This is also the best place to take weight out of the bike because it decreases the moment of inertia. Nimble Spiders come in at 1351g for $520.
That's probably the cheapest you can move that much weight off of the bike.

Everyone's right from above, you'll only notice the difference on climbs or accelerations; however, it is not EASIER to lose weight from the rider, but it definately is cheaper. I'm at 127lbs at 5'5", so losing weight for me is not an option.

Next best buy is the bottom bracket. You can usually pull around 200g out for around $250

Craig
 

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csh8428 said:
Next best buy is the bottom bracket. You can usually pull around 200g out for around $250
Back when I cared about weight, I had a rough rule of thumb that $1/gm was an OK price-to-benefit ratio. That adds up to about $450/pound. With money to burn, that's not bad. But with an understanding of how much (or little) it matters, I think it's easier to make that judgment call.
 

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Consider this fact: For only a grand, your Trek 1600 is as good and probably superior to what Tour de France pros were riding just a few decades ago! And, when comparing to other bikes, remember the triple front chainrings and longer cage RD do add a bit of weight.

If you end up not liking the saddle, that would be a relatively cheap way to trim a little fat (those entry-level Bontragers tend to be heavy). Look for a sub-200 gram model and I bet you could drop ~1/4 lb from the bike. You may very well notice the lighter saddle too when doing a standing climb where you're rocking the bike (since the mass sits up so high).

The Specialized Toupe generally gets rave reviews. Or, if money is tight, the Performance E3 Form is a phenomenal deal. Ti rails and 188 grams for only $40!

Paul
 

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Spicy Dumpling
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Paul1PA said:
Consider this fact: For only a grand, your Trek 1600 is as good and probably superior to what Tour de France pros were riding just a few decades ago!
Years, not decades. Except for wheels, it would probably be as light as a tour bike from the early 90's. And it would have STI instead of downtube shifters to boot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
All great comments.. Thanks. Guess I'll first pull a few pounds off myself....I agree for the price I paid I got a good ride.... Would an extra 500 got me a lot more.. Asking because 1500 was my original limit. I just want to keep this ride and ride it into the ground.
 

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an extra $500 would have got you the same trek with lighter wheels, possibly a lighter RD too but nothing so drastic that would make your current bike seem like you got ripped off.
The best thing you can do for your own benefit is to stop comparing your bike to higher priced bikes because you're never going to get rid of your buyer's remorse. It's a great bike so do like you planned and ride it till the wheels fall off.
 

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Cannot bench own weight
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You got at least 105 level components, and that's really all anyone not into racing needs for long term enjoyment.

I've spent a bunch of money on bikes, and the one I ride the most is my steel Colnago Master from 1990 converted to single speed duty. The Cannondale with Ksyrium SSC SL and Record Components...yea it's hanging up in the mud room.
 

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Alien Musician
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Wait a sec.......

Muaythaibike said:
Ok I reciently bought a new Trek 1600.
http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/2007/archive/1600

For what I paid I think I got a great bike (1000). BUT, it seams kind of heavy. Especially when I pick up other bikes in local shops. Could it be that my frame is of lesser quality? I have good components 105 and up. Perhaps the wheels are heavy. What would you recommend if I want to lighten the bike up a little. Also please comment on the quality frame..

I almost bought a specialized at the same price point but it had lesser components.. Did I sacrifice my frame for my components? Hard to get everything for $ 1G....

Thanks-
105 is better than decent. I'm nearing 5500 miles on a 105 nine speed setup
and I've had no problems over the past few seasons, that stuff is bulletproof.

You want to make your bike lighter? Lose 5 pounds yourself - it will be much less
expensive than making your bike 5 pounds lighter.
 

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Bontrager said:
What if he wants to stay at his current weight? What if the rider isn't overweight? Then what do you suggest?
He starts the post with, I recently purchased... so we know he's overweight.

In any case, the advice is to ride the hell out of the bike he has. Any difference between the performance of a 15 to 20lb bike is in the mind of the owner once the wheels are on the ground and the butt is on the saddle.
 

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Alien Musician
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I suggest he ride it like he stole it and enjoy it.

I highly doubt that it will seem "overweight" on the road. Besides, that bike has
Shimano 105 ten speed for 2008 so it's not like he's running 9 speed like I am..
he's got a wider range of gearings.

Reading a blog somewhere, that bike was around 20 pounds with SPD pedals.

The adage is that rotating items on the bike are often the heaviest so we're
talking the crank, the cassette and the wheelset.

Since it's a 105 crank, you don't want to swap that out.
The cassette is unspecified in everything I've looked at online.

Your wheels are Bontrager. On my own bike (Giant TCR2) it came with
Shimano 105 hubs with Mavic rims and that bike is about 18 pounds
with Ultegra SPD-SL's and my taillights but I doubt you're going to notice
that weight on the road.

Just ride it like you stole it, you've got a good ride there and it should
work well until you're ready to upgrade. It will also be a great "rain bike"
someday.

But I'd say "I'm not going to upgrade until I reach X miles" and make it
be a substantial number.
 
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