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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello, all. I'm not a wheelbuilder, so help me out here -- I recently purchased a used set of shimano-freehub Ligero Model 1s with a powertap sl hub. I also bought a campy freehub replacement from cycleops. The freehub instructions say to toss the aluminum washer/spacer when switching to campy, and indicate that one of the two steel washers goes in a slightly different location on the campy setup than when running a shim/sram setup. I believe I did the transplant correctly, but the wheel is now significantly left of center when looking at it dead-on from behind when in the dropouts, and further the rear derr. shifts into the spokes when on the big rear cog. Sounds like dish problem, right? But my concern is maybe I screwed up on the assembly. Or both perhaps. So does anyone know off hand if you normally are required to redish a wheel when switching from a shim to campy freehub on a powertap sl setup? Thanks much.
 

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Interesting. I just bought a used SL+ hub (15mm axle) with a Campy freehub body, which I switched to a new SRAMano freehub body before building the wheel. No change of spacers or redishing necessary (in fact, all you do is pop one body off and the other on).

If your hub is older and has the smaller axle, then maybe you do need to re-space the hub over to the left, and re-dish the wheel. Not unusual, since the Campy cassettes are wider than SRAMano.
 

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Dishing it

worst_shot_ever said:
Hello, all. I'm not a wheelbuilder, so help me out here -- I recently purchased a used set of shimano-freehub Ligero Model 1s with a powertap sl hub. I also bought a campy freehub replacement from cycleops. The freehub instructions say to toss the aluminum washer/spacer when switching to campy, and indicate that one of the two steel washers goes in a slightly different location on the campy setup than when running a shim/sram setup. I believe I did the transplant correctly, but the wheel is now significantly left of center when looking at it dead-on from behind when in the dropouts, and further the rear derr. shifts into the spokes when on the big rear cog. Sounds like dish problem, right? But my concern is maybe I screwed up on the assembly. Or both perhaps. So does anyone know off hand if you normally are required to redish a wheel when switching from a shim to campy freehub on a powertap sl setup? Thanks much.
You may need to re-dish the wheel, but that would be because the rim is not centered between the brake pads or the chain stays. This is not what you are describing. The RD shifting into the spokes may be a simple limit screw adjustment, but if the RD is touching the spokes when it is centered on the largest cassette cog, then you need a spacer either on the cassette splines or to space the freehub out from the hub body.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Kerry and Fallz, thank you both. Let me give a brief update of the situation. So I went back into the hub and played around with the placement of the washer/spacers. The diagram from CycleOps that comes with their replacement freehub, by the bye, is pretty unhelpful in this regard. I moved one of the spacers/washers from inside the back-side of the freehub and placed it instead on the raised grove around the center of the axle itself. I also pulled the spacer/washer that was previously located on the non-drive side of the axle and set it aside. I then put it back together, including the cassette, torqued all bolts again, put it in the drops. The rear derr. problem is fixed (still needs a slight limit screw adjustment, but it's workable). So I think that washer was previously just in the wrong spot. However, the wheel is even further left of center in the drops now (i.e., favoring the non-drive side) and way into the brakes. This leads me to believe that the washer I pulled from the non-drive side of the axle needs to go back in, despite the unclear suggestion in the unclear CycleOps instructions that the Campy version doesn't get that washer. I only have time for one tear-down/rebuild per night, so tonight I will try again, this time adding the washer on the non-drive side and leaving the washers on the drive side as is; hopefully, this solves the off-center problem. For posterities sake, I'll post back tonight and let the world know if this fixes the problem.
 

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It's hard for me to know exactly what you've done, but I expect that CycleOps wants you to move a spacer from the NDS to the DS of the hub, which will maintain the 130mm over-locknut distance, but space the hub farther to left. You then will have to re-dish the wheel.

With the newer 15mm axle PT hubs, you don't have to move a spacer, and the flange spacing is what it needs to be for Campy, but not as good as it could be for SRAMano.
 

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Shimano to Campy Conversion for Powertap 2.4+ requires re-dish

I purchased a Powertap 2.4+ from Ebay. It came with a Shimano/SRAM freehub which I needed to convert to Campy. This Powertap has the 12mm axle. Specifically it was laced to a 16h Bontrager Aeolus 5.0 carbon tubular rim.

My LBS had the Campy freehub which was nice, but making it work was a major pain. Following the Saris instructions on washer replacement for the conversion required that the wheel be re-dished. Removing one washer from the non-drive side and placing one in a new location clearly shifted the axle within the hub body and resulting in the dish being off. This is despite contacting Saris and being told that it should not be necessary. Fortunately it was less than $20 for the re-dish.
 
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