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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Did a restoration this spring of frame/ drivetrain/ wheelset/ bars/ decals/ fenders.........And then my camera ran out of battery life, so I may need to go shoot more detailed pics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The tires are 23s Forte DC

I have had 25s on in the past but the rear had some clearance problems, meaning I had to put the wheel back on the bike with the tire deflated and really take the time to set it just right in the dropout, front to rear spaced. The smaller tire does not make much difference in ride quality, if they were not red sidewalls i would have picked up some GP3000 wire bead cheap, rubber colored sidewall $20 each.

And I still laugh everytime I think of the price; $65 at the LBS.
 

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Arrogant Roadie Prick said:
Did a restoration this spring of frame/ drivetrain/ wheelset/ bars/ decals/ fenders.........And then my camera ran out of battery life, so I may need to go shoot more detailed pics.
Based on the title of this thread, I had pretty low expectations. But wow, really nice work ARP...you should be proud! :thumbsup: That frame is Reynolds 953 stainless, right? :wink5:
 

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Paul1PA said:
That frame is Reynolds 953 stainless, right?
The Voyageur 11.8 had double-butted 4130 chromoly top and down tubes, single-butted 4130 chromoly seat tube, and 1020 carbon steel fork and stays. ARP's Voyageur 11.8 is fully chrome plated.

The Voyageur 11.8 was built for only three years: 1980, 1981, and 1982. It was available fully chrome plated only in 1980 and 1981.

Reynolds 953 was introduced in late 2005.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Once again sarcasm failed to translate

Scooper said:
The Voyageur 11.8 had double-butted 4130 chromoly top and down tubes, single-butted 4130 chromoly seat tube, and 1020 carbon steel fork and stays. ARP's Voyageur 11.8 is fully chrome plated.

The Voyageur 11.8 was built for only three years: 1980, 1981, and 1982. It was available fully chrome plated only in 1980 and 1981.

Reynolds 953 was introduced in late 2005.
and Scooper, you bit it hard. Weight wise 953 would weight about 1/2 of what the 11.8 does.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hmmmm.... restore

kawarider said:
Nice! How did you "restore" it? Did it have a lot of rust? How did you remove the rust if it had any? Did you have anything re-plated? Thank you!:)
The bike sat around for a season or so partially exposed to elements, I kinda lost interest in it. This winter I started planning what to do to make the bike more usable and then USE it. From the factory the bike had a clear coat over the chrome, it was chipping and flaking off and you would see bright and dull spots, had to look close to see it but it overall looked dull. The decals were chipped a little, some were coming off as they were sticker type. There was some rust on the bb lug area and a small amount on the seat cluster lug. I think I used some chrome cleaner to clean up the little bit of rust I saw and used steel wool and flitz to clean it up. If 100% was a perfect rust free frame this one is in the high98% rust free zone.

I took the frame to a sign maker and had a set of decals made up based upon the original, kid did a super job on them $106. I used aircraft remover to remove the clear coat and old decals, used Flitz to clean up the chrome to a blindingly bright finish. Of course you come to the crossroads of a decision as to whether to stay period correct or upgrade. I went upgrade. Original had 27" steel wheels, Selle Italia type saddle, DT shifters, 6 speed DT, Dia Compe brakes with suicide levers. That all went away. I decided upon using the bike for tours, supported in nature and rain riding, although it is against my better judgement to ride that thing in the rain, just because.

Wheels are Mavic Open Pro with Ultegra hubs. Nitto Randonneur bars, Duraace bar end10 speed SIS/friction shifters, Ultegra triple F&R derailleurs, RSX triple crank 46/36/26 (the weak link in the DT) current Shimano aero levers, Brooks pro saddle, Kalloy fluted seatpost flutes painted to match, Honjo hammertone fenders, flaps are leather made by a local motorcycle bag maker, calipers are Nashbar long reach drilled out for max extension to help pads reach rims, Nashbar clipless pedals. The only parts original to the bike are the fork, frame, headset. I found the stem which is a whole 'nuther can of worms to tackle from a local old bike parts dealer. It fits, barely in the correct range.
 

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that bike is hot. SEriously.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The bag I found online

smallmig said:
Dear Mr Prick,

Your bike is beautiful and true rolling art. I love those bars, fenders and the seat bag. Where can a regular Joe like me pick up a bag like that?
It was CHEAP! Something like $18? I was looking for leather bags similar to the Brooks tool bag and it is from an online motorcyle bag seller and is a handlebar tool bag. The leather is kinda thick and stiff. I made a frame for the bag to ride upon out of a piece of solid brass rod found at Home Depot and attached it to the seat rails with small hose clamps. The ends are rolled into a loop so it won't come off the rails. I attached a second spare tube with twist ties. I sort of committed to the black leather saddle/bag/mudflaps as I doubted that I could find antique brown for all.
 

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Scooper said:
I did bite hard.:blush2: I didn't notice the winking emoticon.:D
Hi Scooper. You know what's ironic? It was your Waterford that me think of the 953. :D At first glance, there is a lot of resemblance between these two frames but the tubing is as different as night and day!

I appreciated your insight into the cro-mo used on the 11.8 too. Interesting how far metallurgy has advanced in the past few decades. Too bad the current crop of exotic steels don't seem to be catching on though.

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Not sure of the difference or your question

They are a vinyl sticker, 2 tone in color red over gold. I picked out colors that were as close to original as I could see. I mean, the bike is not going to any shows or the Smithsonian where the experts can look down their noses and tell me what is wrong with my project. The decals are just one piece (per letter), I cut them out individually squared, laid down a piece of masking tape to use a guide to get them on straight. I ended up with six sets, used parts of 2 to get the job done right.

Maybe clarify further your question, I might be able to answer
 
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