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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The story :mad2::
1. Having clicks when pedals are about 2:00 o'clock position but only when heavily pedaling. Never happens on easy peddling and tend to happen more on the biggest crank. Sounds like pretty loud "CLICK!" but not every revolution.
2. Having clicks when applying full brakes on standing bike and just standing on any single pedal.

What did I do?
First checked the saddle - it clicks while standing or seating, does not matter. Just in case cut saddle stand for about an inch since it is anyway deep enough not to cause any troubles.

Second, re-applied headset. Clicks #2 diasppeared. Wow.

Clicks #1 remain.
Replaced pedals - does not help.
Replaced BB - does not help.
Replaced rear wheel - does not help.

I am out of options and now my LBS is re-assembling the whole bicycle again suspecting something going loose. The bicycle is new.

Any guess what can it be?
 

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You mentioned that you replaced pedals, but did you check out your cleats? Try greasing screws holding in cleats and properly tightening them. Also, grease and re-torque chainring bolts to proper spec. Place a thin film between where chainring and spider meet. Or maybe bottle cage bolts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You mentioned that you replaced pedals, but did you check out your cleats? Try greasing screws holding in cleats and properly tightening them. Also, grease and re-torque chainring bolts to proper spec. Or maybe bottle cage bolts?
Thanks for reply! Replaced pedals with look ones (right now using Campagnolo) and therefore cleats are different. Still same story.
Do not have any bottle cage on it yet so should not be the case too.
 

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What kind of bottom bracket/cranks. I would put my money in not enough grease used on the threads in the cups or tensioned improperly somewhere there. I had an Ultra torque campy crank that was doing that. Took it apart, greased it, TENSIONED it correctly with a torque wrench, and silence.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
What kind of bottom bracket/cranks. I would put my money in not enough grease used on the threads in the cups or tensioned improperly somewhere there. I had an Ultra torque campy crank that was doing that. Took it apart, greased it, TENSIONED it correctly with a torque wrench, and silence.
Campa Athena. Sounds very much like my case, thank you for hint! It is very difficult to figure out where exactly the sound comes from but most likely this is about cranks.
 

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Had this, tore my bike apart and rebuilt it. Finally figured out it was my chainring bolts being a little loose. Been quiet ever since. They only made noise during a load, kinda like yours.

Bill
 

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Had that once, it was the FD cable hitting the cranks. If it is a creak no, but a tic or click sound maybe.

Read the post again, disregrd as mine was on every revolution! Sorry.

Also had the little knubbies on the sides of new tires hitting brakes. Sometimes don't hear it till you start going faster, just a thought.
 

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For me it was the rear skewer, go figure. You said you swapped wheels, did you replace the skewers?
 

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Standard advice

The story :mad2::
1. Having clicks when pedals are about 2:00 o'clock position but only when heavily pedaling. Never happens on easy peddling and tend to happen more on the biggest crank. Sounds like pretty loud "CLICK!" but not every revolution.
2. Having clicks when applying full brakes on standing bike and just standing on any single pedal.

What did I do?
First checked the saddle - it clicks while standing or seating, does not matter. Just in case cut saddle stand for about an inch since it is anyway deep enough not to cause any troubles.

Second, re-applied headset. Clicks #2 diasppeared. Wow.

Clicks #1 remain.
Replaced pedals - does not help.
Replaced BB - does not help.
Replaced rear wheel - does not help.

I am out of options and now my LBS is re-assembling the whole bicycle again suspecting something going loose. The bicycle is new.

Any guess what can it be?
It is fairly common to have clicking noises, but ticks and clicks are very hard to eliminate sometimes. What seems like it is tied to the pedals may be coming from the seat post, etc. Sometimes things like temperature and humidity can affect noises as well. Also, things like the front derailleur cage just hitting the crank, loose bottle cage bolts, or the front derailleur cable sticking out and hitting your shoe can seem like they are clicks but really aren't. Another thing to consider is that the frame and components are flexing from pedaling forces, and so you can get a click or creak sound where you think it couldn’t be – for example the seat post & clamp can make noise even when you are standing and pedaling due the frame flexing. Here’s a link if you don’t like reading the rest of this post: http://www.struck.us/CheckList/Bicycle_Touring_Tips.html#NoiseDirectory

Clicks tied to your pedaling can come from
- BB (grease all threads in contact with the frame and BB, all metal to metal contact surfaces, and torque to the recommended settings, which can be quite high), the faces of tapered BB axles if they have a little corrosion
- bolt holding the BB cable guide onto the frame (grease threads and make sure the bolt is not touching the BB shell inside the frame)
- crank bolts (grease threads and washers)
- chain ring bolts (take them all out and grease the threads, the faces where they contact the CRs, and the CRs where they contact the crank spider arms)
- a dirty chain, inadequately lubed chain, stiff link in a chain or a burr on one of the "break off" special links used to assemble the chain
- front derailleur clamp (clean and put a light film of grease on the inside of the clamp where it touches the seat tube)
- the pedals (grease the threads and the shoulders of the axle where it butts against the crank arm, get some wax, silicone etc. on the cleats, check for play in the bearings, squirt some lube into the guts of the pedal machinery if possible)
- shoes/cleats - loose cleat nut rattling around in the shoe sole, shoe/cleat interface, cleat bolts, cleats touching pedals (wax lube, silicone, or furniture polish)
- seat post and saddle (grease the post, seat post bolts, saddle rails, and add some oil to where the rails go into the saddle body)
- bars and stem (grease the stem where it clamps to steerer or goes into the steerer if quill type, top cap, stem bolts at both ends, h'bar bolt if quill stem, and h'bar where it goes through the stem)
- grease/tighten QRs and where the hub axle contacts the frame
- tighten cassette lock ring, grease cassette hub body and cassette spacers
- grease steerer tube spacers (if threadless)
- replaceable derailleur hangers (remove, clean, grease all parts and threads, reassemble)
- any other bolt (bottle cages, derailleur clamps, derailleur bolts, shift cable casing stops, etc.)
- cables hitting the frame (cable donuts), or shifting in their end ferrules (lube contact points).

Wheels can make noises when pedaling or coasting (check for spoke tension, particularly on the rear non drive side, put a drop of lube where each pair of spokes cross and where each spoke enters the rim and the hub flange, check for loose metal bits or spoke nipples in the body of the rim and cracks in the rim at spoke holes.).
 

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It is fairly common to have clicking noises, but ticks and clicks are very hard to eliminate sometimes. What seems like it is tied to the pedals may be coming from the seat post, etc. Sometimes things like temperature and humidity can affect noises as well. Also, things like the front derailleur cage just hitting the crank, loose bottle cage bolts, or the front derailleur cable sticking out and hitting your shoe can seem like they are clicks but really aren't. Another thing to consider is that the frame and components are flexing from pedaling forces, and so you can get a click or creak sound where you think it couldn’t be – for example the seat post & clamp can make noise even when you are standing and pedaling due the frame flexing. Here’s a link if you don’t like reading the rest of this post: Bicycle Touring Tips, Lessons Learned, and Tricks of the Trade

Clicks tied to your pedaling can come from
- BB (grease all threads in contact with the frame and BB, all metal to metal contact surfaces, and torque to the recommended settings, which can be quite high), the faces of tapered BB axles if they have a little corrosion
- bolt holding the BB cable guide onto the frame (grease threads and make sure the bolt is not touching the BB shell inside the frame)
- crank bolts (grease threads and washers)
- chain ring bolts (take them all out and grease the threads, the faces where they contact the CRs, and the CRs where they contact the crank spider arms)
- a dirty chain, inadequately lubed chain, stiff link in a chain or a burr on one of the "break off" special links used to assemble the chain
- front derailleur clamp (clean and put a light film of grease on the inside of the clamp where it touches the seat tube)
- the pedals (grease the threads and the shoulders of the axle where it butts against the crank arm, get some wax, silicone etc. on the cleats, check for play in the bearings, squirt some lube into the guts of the pedal machinery if possible)
- shoes/cleats - loose cleat nut rattling around in the shoe sole, shoe/cleat interface, cleat bolts, cleats touching pedals (wax lube, silicone, or furniture polish)
- seat post and saddle (grease the post, seat post bolts, saddle rails, and add some oil to where the rails go into the saddle body)
- bars and stem (grease the stem where it clamps to steerer or goes into the steerer if quill type, top cap, stem bolts at both ends, h'bar bolt if quill stem, and h'bar where it goes through the stem)
- grease/tighten QRs and where the hub axle contacts the frame
- tighten cassette lock ring, grease cassette hub body and cassette spacers
- grease steerer tube spacers (if threadless)
- replaceable derailleur hangers (remove, clean, grease all parts and threads, reassemble)
- any other bolt (bottle cages, derailleur clamps, derailleur bolts, shift cable casing stops, etc.)
- cables hitting the frame (cable donuts), or shifting in their end ferrules (lube contact points).

Wheels can make noises when pedaling or coasting (check for spoke tension, particularly on the rear non drive side, put a drop of lube where each pair of spokes cross and where each spoke enters the rim and the hub flange, check for loose metal bits or spoke nipples in the body of the rim and cracks in the rim at spoke holes.).
Good post! I forgot about the cables hitting the frame, that made my day a few years ago. I think by the time he finishes this list the OP will be a certified bike mechanic. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thank you everyone for kind answers, this thread is indeed worth bookmarking for any future issues like this.

The clicking issue solved!

As I told previously took the bike to LBS where they were unable to figure reason too and decided just to re-assemble the whole bicycle from scrap. This is what they did and according to them they found sand in some places and BB in particular which mau have caused issues. Removing sand and putting everything in the place again removed issues and I am not sure if this is just happy me but bicycle feels more responsive and even stiffer after this! :cool:
 

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Thank you everyone for kind answers, this thread is indeed worth bookmarking for any future issues like this.

The clicking issue solved!

As I told previously took the bike to LBS where they were unable to figure reason too and decided just to re-assemble the whole bicycle from scrap. This is what they did and according to them they found sand in some places and BB in particular which mau have caused issues. Removing sand and putting everything in the place again removed issues and I am not sure if this is just happy me but bicycle feels more responsive and even stiffer after this! :cool:
Ack! How did you get sand in your BB? Is it a cross bike? (crossing fingers)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ack! How did you get sand in your BB? Is it a cross bike? (crossing fingers)
I am not sure it was about BB since LBS guy did not really tell very much about details but definitely he told me about sand in several places and BB. This is normal road bike so I am wondering how did sand get there too. Since the bicycle is very new the possibility is dirty work during the first assemble.
 

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I am not sure it was about BB since LBS guy did not really tell very much about details but definitely he told me about sand in several places and BB. This is normal road bike so I am wondering how did sand get there too. Since the bicycle is very new the possibility is dirty work during the first assemble.
Most likely it was just the kind of road grit that gets into everything after a while. What probably fixed your click was that the BB threads were cleaned, greased, and set to the proper torque. Any one of these three things might have been the fix. If your BB has a drain hole (all BBs SHOULD have a drain hole but many don't) then that is an obvious path for dirt to enter the space.
 
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