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Banned Sock Puppet
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all wheelists!

I just completed my second wheel build. Some recent history:

1st Build:

HED C2 Belgium rims
Shimano 6800 Ultegra hubs
DT Swiss Competition spokes 32 3x front / 32 3x rear
DT Pro-Lock nipples

2nd Build:

DT Swiss R460 rims
Shimano 9000 Dura-Ace hubs
DT Swiss Aero-Comp spokes 24 2x front / 32 3x rear
DT Pro-Lock nipples

With a teensy bit of experience, my 2nd build went faster. However, the most noticeable difference was how on the 2nd build, things just seemed to fall into place - especially on the front! In other words, while there were plenty of lateral tweaks necessary, radial true just seemed to fall in place on the front, and needed very minimal attention on the rear. And there was minimal spoke tension equalizing necessary.

Contrast that to my 1st build which literally felt like a game of Wack-A-Mole - lots of back and forth compromising between trueness and equal spoke tensions.

If I had to guess a few reasons, well, besides experience, bladed spokes definitely make the job easier as with the bladed spoke holder, you can see exactly when the spoke winds and exactly where it is and where it belongs. Sure, the flags on round spokes are helpful. Unfortunately, they also slip thereby making them not a completely reliable tool.

Stress relieving steps: I not only use all of Mike T.'s methods, but also another method one of my LBS bike mechanics thought me - where you grab and squeeze non-parallel spoke pairs at the rim end. This has the added advantage of making that bend at the nipple if that wasn't done before.

And another thought. Could it be possible that the DT Swiss R460s come out of the box rounder and truer than the HED C2 Belgiums?
 

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Good show! Congrats, you are officially bitten by the wheel building bug!
BTW, we need pics!
 

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A wheelist
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11,324 Posts
radial true just seemed to fall in place on the front, and needed very minimal attention on the rear. Could it be possible that the DT Swiss R460s come out of the box rounder and truer than the HED C2 Belgiums?
Could it be that you paid more attention to screwing the nipples down more evenly in the initial building stages? I pay great attention to this and I can't remember the last wheelbuild I did where I had to do any radial truing at all.
 

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Banned Sock Puppet
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Could it be that you paid more attention to screwing the nipples down more evenly in the initial building stages? I pay great attention to this and I can't remember the last wheelbuild I did where I had to do any radial truing at all.

I don't think this is it. I always used the homemade nipple driver ground down to have a point in the middle so it would let loose at precisely the same point on each spoke.
 

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Banned Sock Puppet
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Good show! Congrats, you are officially bitten by the wheel building bug!
BTW, we need pics!

Sounds good, congrats! Post some pictures :)

I'm trying to, but for some reason, the site won't let me. Funny that I've been able to copy and paste other photo file formats here, but not jpegs. I've never had any luck with the image downloader on RBR.
 

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A wheelist
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I don't think this is it. I always used the homemade nipple driver ground down to have a point in the middle so it would let loose at precisely the same point on each spoke.
Then you're assuming all the spokes are exactly the same length. Use the method on my site and if you're careful enough you'll have the same outcome as me.

And the nipple driver point has zero effect on screwing the nipples down evenly after it's disengaged. There's lots of nipple tightening to do after that stage, and before truing begins. Count turns Lom. Count turns.
 

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I'm trying to, but for some reason, the site won't let me. Funny that I've been able to copy and paste other photo file formats here, but not jpegs. I've never had any luck with the image downloader on RBR.
click go advanced - click upload photos - click add files - click select files - click upload files - click done
 

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Banned Sock Puppet
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Then you're assuming all the spokes are exactly the same length. Use the method on my site and if you're careful enough you'll have the same outcome as me.

And the nipple driver point has zero effect on screwing the nipples down evenly after it's disengaged. There's lots of nipple tightening to do after that stage, and before truing begins. Count turns Lom. Count turns.
Yep, did that. I know how to count. :D The only thing I can think of is unrealized spoke twist once there was some tension. I made the room quiet and turned off the phone just so I wouldn't be interrupted and lose count.
 

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The only thing I can think of is unrealized spoke twist once there was some tension.
Spoke twist? :eek: B-b-but you wrote this - "bladed spokes definitely make the job easier as with the bladed spoke holder, you can see exactly when the spoke winds and exactly where it is".

The ability to see and totally prevent spoke twist is the #1 best reason for bladed spokes for us mere mortals. That's right after the "they pull chicks" given.
 

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That's cool.
I have an out of context question: Do you use clinchers with tubes? If so how are the R460 to deal with? Any downside to the tubeless ready business?
 

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Banned Sock Puppet
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
New Wheelbuild

click go advanced - click upload photos - click add files - click select files - click upload files - click done
Got it, thanks DC!
 

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Banned Sock Puppet
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
That's cool.
I have an out of context question: Do you use clinchers with tubes? If so how are the R460 to deal with? Any downside to the tubeless ready business?

Yep, tubed clinchers. I found these no harder to install than on the HED C2s. It appears the "tubeless rims are hard to install clinchers on" is a non-issue - at least with these tubeless compatible rims.
 

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Banned Sock Puppet
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Spoke twist? :eek: B-b-but you wrote this - "bladed spokes definitely make the job easier as with the bladed spoke holder, you can see exactly when the spoke winds and exactly where it is".

The ability to see and totally prevent spoke twist is the #1 best reason for bladed spokes for us mere mortals. That's right after the "they pull chicks" given.
Yep! It definitely seemed like it made things easier. Though it looks like we'll have to wait till spring in order to find out if they make me a chick magnet. :D
 

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Yep, tubed clinchers. I found these no harder to install than on the HED C2s. It appears the "tubeless rims are hard to install clinchers on" is a non-issue - at least with these tubeless compatible rims.
Thanks. Might have to try those rims then. I've had C2s and was a little concerned with how darn easy it was go get a tires on at first. But it turned out not a be a valid concern.....never had an issue.

It's definitely an issue on some rims.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks. Might have to try those rims then. I've had C2s and was a little concerned with how darn easy it was go get a tires on at first. But it turned out not a be a valid concern.....never had an issue.

It's definitely an issue on some rims.

Make no mistake, you have to get the opposite end of the tire beads in the rim channel to get that last bit of tire on. It's a tight fit for sure, but so were the HEDs and not difficult as long as you do this step. In other words, no cursing was required. :)
 
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