Road Bike, Cycling Forums banner
1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've posted this note in the retro-classic section which is probably incorrect ...

-------------------------

I've decided to update my vintage Campy SR pedals with a set of Keo Carbon pedals. I noticed the pedal doesn't thread into my Campy SR crank. I didn't want to force it as I'm concern it will damage the thread on the crank. In checking the thread on the crank, it is labeled as 9/16 x 20F. The manual for the Keo pedal shows 9/16 X 20. I checked the Campy pedal and there is a stamp of 9/16 X 20 on spindle.

Does the F on the crank signify a different thread resulting in the poor fitment?

Thanks
 

·
'brifter' is f'ing stupid
Joined
·
15,582 Posts
those should thread right in. you may want to have a shop run a tap through to chase the threads and take a look at them, but it should work. how did the old pedals come out? were they tight feeling while un-threading them?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
40,896 Posts
rlim said:
I've posted this note in the retro-classic section which is probably incorrect ...

-------------------------

I've decided to update my vintage Campy SR pedals with a set of Keo Carbon pedals. I noticed the pedal doesn't thread into my Campy SR crank. I didn't want to force it as I'm concern it will damage the thread on the crank. In checking the thread on the crank, it is labeled as 9/16 x 20F. The manual for the Keo pedal shows 9/16 X 20. I checked the Campy pedal and there is a stamp of 9/16 X 20 on spindle.

Does the F on the crank signify a different thread resulting in the poor fitment?

Thanks
Here, read this thread: http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch/browse_thread/thread/fdf11e590a0a185b

The "F" stands for "fine," as in "fine threads."
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
cxwrench said:
those should thread right in. you may want to have a shop run a tap through to chase the threads and take a look at them, but it should work. how did the old pedals come out? were they tight feeling while un-threading them?
---------------------------------------

The old pedal came out effortlessly ... they weren't tight as I was able to unscrew them with my fingers once they were loosened.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
xxl said:
Here, read this thread: http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch/browse_thread/thread/fdf11e590a0a185b

The "F" stands for "fine," as in "fine threads."
-------------------------

Thanks XXL ... based on that link, I will have to tap my crank in order to accommodate the pedal. I'll have to give it some serious thought on this. I bought the pedal thinking it was a straight forward swap without any type of modification.

The vintage Diego shoe with cleat was a pain to walk around in. I am also concern that the wear and tear imposed on the shoe and the challenges in getting replacement cleats has become an issue. I am hoping to be able to use my other shoes with Keo cleat with my vintage bike.
 

·
Roadie with unshaven legs
Joined
·
2,027 Posts
Try this: take a right Look pedal and a right SR pedal and place the threads against each other. Look at the gap. Do the threads mesh? It should look sort of like WWWWW. If they don't mesh then the threads are a different pitch. Do the threads start to go in then get really tight or are you not even getting the threads to start? Try threading the pedal on from the back side of the crank arm to see if it'll even thread on (less chance of damaged threads on the wrong side but don't thread it all the way down or else you might get scarring from the shoulder of the pedal making contact with the soft aluminum of the crank). Worst comes to worst, try the left pedal in the right crank arm to see if they installed the axles backwards.

True story: my buddy had his Keo Carbon pedal spindles replaced at the REI due to the recall. The tech had never done one before and he managed to thread a right axle into his left pedal and vice-versa despite the reversed threads of the locking collar. When he got home his pedal would not thread back onto the cranks. He tried the left pedal on the right crank arm and it threaded on but was facing backwards, obviously. Look replaced the pedals for the cost of shipping them to their office.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21,675 Posts
No tapping!

rlim said:
based on that link, I will have to tap my crank in order to accommodate the pedal.
Nonsense. The new pedals should fit right in. Maybe you need to chase the threads on the crank, but probably things would sort out using the standard technique. Clean the threads in the crank, grease pedal threads and crank arm threads, start the pedals with light wrench force. Thread in until the force gets too high, back out, re-clean, re-grease, repeat. You do recognize the difference between left and right pedal threads, right? :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I finally got the pedal fitted. I threaded the pedal in slowly as it was quite snug going in.

Thanks everyone for your suggestions. I'm a happy camper as I was somewhat concern that I've wasted money on pedals that are incompatible.
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top