[juan antonio]

Is it just me or have Kreitlers belts quality gone down since Al passed?
Has anybody found a durable, quiet, 1/4"polyurethane replacement for them in both the 72" and 42" sizes?

 

[Squint]

Is it just me or have Kreitlers belts quality gone down since Al passed?
Has anybody found a durable, quiet, 1/4"polyurethane replacement for them in both the 72" and 42" sizes?

I wouldn't know as I've been using the original belt for all these years. Have you had problems with new replacement belts? Are they breaking at the original joint or elsewhere? McMaster has 1/4" belt stock that you can buy, cut, and weld yourself.

What model rollers are you using? Fan, too?

 

[juan antonio]

My originals lasted for years too! I have challengers w/killer headwind. I've broken two fan belts in less than 500 miles, the second was for sure at the seam. I was in such a hurry to get the first one replaced and so happy my LBS had one I never looked at it. I looked at McMaster Carr yesterday prior to posting,but the $$ for a welder sem a bit high. I have melted the ends of broken surfboard leashes in a pinch so I tried it with my roller belt yesterday. It worked OK until I opened up the killer headwind then it broke after a few minutes. I have only had to replace one main belt, but my friend at the LBS says he selling more than ever. Oh as for the belt that broke for sure at the seam. Ekosports(who bought Kreitler) I think its called will not warrenty it or any belt according to my friend at the LBS. Al Kreitler gave a lifetime replacement and he even answared his own phone.

 

[Squint]

My alloy rollers' belt lasted for something like 7 years until this winter. The original weld has held but there were a few cracks in the belt that are now breaking during short anaerobic interval workouts. The 2nd break wasn't at the first repaired joint so I think it's possible to weld it yourself and have hold.

I found that if you don't weld it really well, it'll break, but if you do it right, it could last a long time (or at least a week so far since my first repair). I used a soldering iron and melted the ends quite a bit--about 1-2 mm should be turned into liquid. Then quickly push the ends together and check the alignment. Then you have to hold it for quite sometime. I did 30 seconds but would hold it longer in the future because I've seen 5 mins recommended. Then don't put any stress on it (don't even test it) for 15 mins or longer. I found that if I didn't do a good job, it would break almost immediately. I cut the belt at the big cracks and welded them to prevent future breaks so I have like 4 welds in the belt right now. So far, so good.

I think I'm going to order some belt material from McMaster and start making belts for myself and maybe other people if the new ones from Kreitler are that bad.

 

[juan antonio]

I'll try the soldering iron, maybe I'm loosing something to the flame.

 

[Squint]

I'll try the soldering iron, maybe I'm loosing something to the flame.

Let me know if it works better. So far, my joints have held up under my use which, so far, has only been up to around 400W (1 min intervals). That's the workout that always makes the cracks in the belt turn into complete breaks.


Here are the instructions from a splicing kit that I found online:

B u t t S p l i c e P r o c e d u r e s

A proper butt weld should yield upward to 100% of the beltings ultimate tensile strength.

Preheat heating tool for approximately 10 minutes before welding.

Cut ends of belt perfectly square using cutting shears.

Set belt clamp to proper spacing. Insert and tighten belt in clamps. Position belt ends in clamp until ends butt together. Ensure that ends are properly aligned.

Use side thumb screw to move belt ends slightly apart from hot knife. Insert tip of heating tool between belt ends. Best welds are produced when blade is "close" but not touching belt.

As belt begins to melt, watch carefully until material mushrooms or 1/16" bead forms all the way around each end of the belt. Withdraw hot knife and gently squeeze handles and/or tighten side thumb screw.

Be careful not to exert excessive pressure on splice.

Leave belt in clamp for a minimum of 5 minutes to allow for initial cooling. Allow an additional minimum of 15 minutes before tensioning or operating the belt. Do not strain belt before the full 15 minute cure time has elapsed.

Remove flashing from splice.

PRACTICE MAKES PERFECT

 

[CFBlue]

roller belts idea

i have a question....why dont they replace the belt w/ a bike chain and sprokets on the roller ends and maye they could make them diff teeth for diff resistance...this seems promising but im only a racer not a mechanic...what do the rest of ya think about this idea?