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· Just one more switchback
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I installed brand new Ksyrium ES's on my bike yesterday morning. They spun very well on the stand. When I started my warmup for our Tuesday night ride though, I kept getting chain suck. I pulled the wheel and realized that the cassette body kept freezing up, sometimes it would spin freely and other times it would not spin at all. The pawls are sticking to the point of the cassette not spinning. It is not just new bearing tightness. Has anyone heard of this before?

They were a team deal so I will have to contact Mavic directly to get them replaced but just wondering if anyone else has experienced this.
 

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Sure it's the pawls? Sometimes the interface between the hub seal and the cassette body seal is bone dry, producing just enough friction to act as an intermittent brake. Drop of oil will fix it, if that's the problem.
 

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There is a bushing in the Ksyrium freehub body
Yes, that's the culprit. The inside is the bearing surface, while the face makes the seal against the soft rubber ring on the hub. Lube both inside and face with something like gear oil or Phil's Tenacious. There's also a Mavic product for that, but I can't recall the name right now.
 

· Just one more switchback
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ok

This is what Mavic said "My first thought is that the little washer that goes between the free hub body and the nose of the hub is missing. If you take the free hub body off it will be either stuck to the inside of the free hub body or sitting on the nose of the hub"

I will check tonight and see which it is, a washer or in need of oil. How do I get the cassette body off? I have serviced CK, Hugi and WTB hubs before but never a Mavic.

Thanks and I will let you know which it was.
 

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It's been a while and I don't have a hub here, but this is what I remember. Hope there wasn't a major redesign recently: :D

Pull the unthreaded cap off the non-drive side of the axle. That should reveal a hex, perhaps 8 mm or even larger. (On old axles, that cap is hard to remove sometimes. Unscrewing the adjuster collar should break it loose.)

Put your 5 mm (?) hex wrench into the hex wrench hole on the drive side of the axle.

Torque the wrenches against each other and carefully unscrew the axle.

Slide it all apart - watch for two pawl springs to come out.
 

· Just one more switchback
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
How about a broken pawl

I took the wheel apart tonight and found that one of the pawls was broken. The wheel started acting up in the first 100 feet of the ride so I know it didn't happen while riding. I put the cassette on with the same amount of torque as I have been doing to road and mtb wheels for the last ten years so I don't think that did it. Actually, it probably did do it but I would say that it had to be a defective pawl, not too much torque. I will tell Mavic tomorrow and hopefully they will just ship out a new pawl or two.

Why don't pictures show up in the preview?
 

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Amazing!

I can't see how you possibly could have broken that pawl with the cassette installation. It's either a metallurgical defect in the pawl itself or an assembly problem on the line. Either way, Mavic owes you.
 

· naranjito
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you put far more force on the pawls while pedalling than what you could put on while installing the cassette (unless you use a 6 foot bar and totally ignore the recommended torque specs!). probably came that way from the factory. a new pawl to replace the broken one should do the trick - you shouldn't need to send the wheel back, just do it yourself.
 
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