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And the can of worms is open...
From the description, this sounds an awful lot like the Quaker State marine grease with teflon I use in my training wheels, and as assembly lube. It's very thick, white, and smells like dead dinosaurs.
It does add noticeable amounts of friction at first, but this is should smooth out as grease migrates away from the bearings. Don't worry, it's tacky enough that the races and balls will be protected, but the bulk of the grease will move out of the way. Plus, cold temps thicken most greases, so warmer weather will help.
Thicker greases, especially the "waterproof" variety, will help protect your bearings in nasty weather. Waterproof means the thickening agents won't absorb water, or at least not as quickly. It also makes assembly of loose ball systems much easier.
I'm of mixed feelings on viscosity making a difference in rolling resistance, though. On one hand, it definitely slows a spinning wheel faster if there's thicker grease in the bearings. However, a freely spinning wheel is different than one under the weight of a rider and bike. In any case, the energy dissipated can't be that large, or you'd notice warm hubs after a ride - the energy has to go somewhere, and would be heat in this case. 1W over an hour-long ride would definitely raise your hub's temperature enough to be noticed.
So, I guess the answer is, it's probably not slowing you down, and is prolonging the life of your components, but if you're worried about it, or highly competitive, grease is cheap and easy to replace. I like Quaker State wheel bearing grease, as it's very thin, EPX Gold grease (from the Prolink people) as it starts thick but thins out quickly, and has the same friction-reducing additives as Prolink, or the greases offered by for American Classic hub maintenance. They aren't as tacky as others, and are very thin, meaning your hubs would spin for a long, long time, but will want to be rebuilt more often.
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