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I have them in both pairs of shoes. I have a 6mm leg length difference plus tend to put pressure on the outside edge of my feet. I added 3mm to the short leg side and angled the shoe inward on both sides. I did this nearly 2 years ago and could feel an immediate change. I actually made my legs a bit sore for a couple days due to the muscle change.

However, for the first time in my life, I feel like I'm sitting evenly on the saddle, not rocked over to the short leg side. This also helped with a saddle sore issue on the long leg side since it rubbed more on the seat.

My main advice is to creep up on changes. Don't make radical changes to tilt or overall length as you can easily hurt yourself.
 

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i use one on one shoe to level out the foot to pedal axis, and this lessens the strain on the knee...probably should use them to equal out the leg lengths, but i also believe in gradual adjustments.

one thing, for the money, they could have come with a better, more complete, higher quality assortment of hardware, as it is needed to accomadate the new cleat to shoe distance, not just the limited selection of black oxide stuff..
oh well, gotta be self sufficient on this one.

bottom line, this one wedge has reduced strain on the knee, and smoothed out an already long developed spin.


acid_rider said:
http://www.lemondfitness.com/products/lewedge/index.html


is anyone using these? any negative or positive comments?
 

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I just ordered 50 stainless bolts long enough for >4 wedges and with 2.5 mm hex heads instead of Phillips.

Even though I've used these wedges for like 10 years, it'll only be a few more months before my custom shoes are ready and I won't need them anymore. Obviously, I'll keep them and my old pair of shoes around.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
sounds similar

wasfast said:
I have them in both pairs of shoes. I have a 6mm leg length difference plus tend to put pressure on the outside edge of my feet. I added 3mm to the short leg side and angled the shoe inward on both sides. I did this nearly 2 years ago and could feel an immediate change. I actually made my legs a bit sore for a couple days due to the muscle change.

However, for the first time in my life, I feel like I'm sitting evenly on the saddle, not rocked over to the short leg side. This also helped with a saddle sore issue on the long leg side since it rubbed more on the seat.

My main advice is to creep up on changes. Don't make radical changes to tilt or overall length as you can easily hurt yourself.
thanks everyone. I have ~5-7mm right leg being shorter than left leg and, I am told, I tend to drop the right leg a bit down so I am thinking 2-3mm wedge for the shorter right leg only.
 

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I've been using two for each shoe for about one year now. They totally sorted out my alignment issues and I think they're great.
 

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I have 3 on one leg and nothing on the other. I was having alot knee and outside edge of foot pain. I went and got shoe cleat alignment fitting switch out the insole in my shoes and now I feel like a new person.
 

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i use them with success

acid_rider said:
http://www.lemondfitness.com/products/lewedge/index.html


is anyone using these? any negative or positive comments?
i use these and they are an integral part of my bike fit. I have a leg length discrepancy so I have them set up as a shim in 1 leg, while both legs are canted out with 2 on each shoe.

they have drastically helped with my knee problems and I no longer take glucosamine for achy knees.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
did anyone need to raise/lower saddle height?

thanks everyone for your replies. Those who have used LeMond Wedges to "cant" their feet to one side (as opposed to using reverse stack to shim/raise the foot) did you also need to raise or lower your saddle height or leave saddle height as is?

For example, I was recommended 2-3mm wedge so do I also need to raise saddle by 2mm to compensate?
 

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I got the wedges when I deceided it was time to get refitted to my bike. I think something had moved and I was getting knee pain. So at that time he moved my seat up and back. It is drasitcally different then pervious setup.

Most likely you will have to reposition the seat.
 

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acid_rider said:
thanks everyone for your replies. Those who have used LeMond Wedges to "cant" their feet to one side (as opposed to using reverse stack to shim/raise the foot) did you also need to raise or lower your saddle height or leave saddle height as is?

For example, I was recommended 2-3mm wedge so do I also need to raise saddle by 2mm to compensate?
In my case, I didn't. Since the "normal" leg was already at the proper height, I only added the shims. It's really going to depend on how you have your saddle set. If you've lowered it to compensate for the short leg, then raising the saddle is in order.

I also have my seat angled to one side to help make me feel more centered (and to help with saddle sores on the long leg side). Don't forget to tweak this if you've also had your saddle off centerline.
 

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not really...

acid_rider said:
thanks everyone for your replies. Those who have used LeMond Wedges to "cant" their feet to one side (as opposed to using reverse stack to shim/raise the foot) did you also need to raise or lower your saddle height or leave saddle height as is?

For example, I was recommended 2-3mm wedge so do I also need to raise saddle by 2mm to compensate?
I may have raised it 1-2mms, but no more than that.

However, since it was in the off-season, I was playing around quite a bit with my overall positioning on the bike to find the optimal fit.
 

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which side do they go on???

Curious to hear an educated opinion on whether they would be helpful to me (i think that'd be the case) and if so, where do they go? On the outside of the foot, or the inside to force my feet to be parallel to the pedal?

here's a pic of some old look pedals, where it's pretty obvious by the wear that i grind on the outside.

 

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I would find a bike shop that does cleat alignment and have it done there. You do want to put to many in and cause knee pain. otherwise have some with a laser line watch you from the front of your bike and line the lazer up between your big toe and the toe next to it. And as you are spinning, the lazer should be lined up with the middle of your knee cap. Add or take shims away until this alignment is met. That is how the bike shop in town did it for me. And it has made a big difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
feedback after 140km

Thanks all.

I ended up with 3mm wedge (on inside side of the shoe sole) on shorter right leg and nothing in the left leg. I tried 3, 2 and 1mm on left leg also and I felt pressure on the outside of the left foot which all went away once I removed them. On the 5mm shorter right leg 3 wedges (~3mm) made the right leg more comfortable, more square. This is based on two 70km rides so far.
 

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Sorry for posting this in the forum but I was unable to reply personally as it rejected the "dolifewell" as a valid user.


dolifewell said:
I just asked how you know which leg is longer? My left leg rubs on the saddle but I want to be sure the right one is the short one before I shim it up.
Thanks!
Hi,

I had a chiropractor measure both legs. He measured from the ankle bone to a bone on my hip. It's still something that you can feel when riding. You can also add shims and work up to the goal dimension and see how it goes. It's helpful to have a knowledgeable person watch you from the back and side to see if there are noticeable "extra" movements.

Hope this helps.
 

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If one is just trying to adjust for leg assymetry, would washers and maybe some longer cleat mounting screws suffice?
 
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