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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I am getting myself a new carbon disc road frame. I also want a large gear range, so I am thinking MTB cassette, and so probably also MTB derailleur to deal with the cogs. I´m still unsure tbh whether to go with a flat bar or a classic road bar, and I´m trying to weigh my options. I suppose if I do the curly road bar, I´ll probably have to go with Avid BB7s and just use regular brifters (tending toward SRAM, seems the thing to do nowadays). SRAM S700 looks interesting, but am a bit worried about first-year woes, and the price might be considerably more than doing the mechanical thing. I assume these would all work with their respective mtb components (like S700 or Force working with X0 derailleur).

Flat-bar wise, I guess it would be the X0 or X9 rapidfire shifters, but when it comes to brakes I´m fully at a loss. What would work? Am I correct in assuming that I could use any MTB disc brakes? What gives the best performance/price? And finally, can people recommend an inexpensive online retailer for this stuff? I´m in europe fwiw.

Oh, and cranks ---- I suppose correctly that I can get shimano / SRAM / FSA / Whatever and they should all work interchangeably? I see used (modern, look like the current model) DuraAce cranks frequently on ebay. Thats about the only component I´d be comfortable getting used...



Thanks for any help
 

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You need to give us some clue as to what kind of riding you have in mind. Your many options are all over the place, so there's no way to even guess as to what it is you want that carbon disc road frame to do for you.
 

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Just a hint.
When people see you on a carbon disc road frame, with a monster cassette and MTB derailleurs, you'll get some snickers.

You have to ask yourself:
1) If you "need" a monster cassette, why a carbon road frame?
2) Why do you need a disc frame?
3) Do you ride in the rain and mud often?
4) Do you believe everything you read about disc brakes?
.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
OK, my needs are somewhat unconventional. This is to be a work bike, I ride for a courier company in a hilly and often quite wet city. So I don't care what the race scene thinks, I want a good balance of light weight, comfort, durability and price. Already have several steel rides, this is an experiment to see how well carbon holds up. So flat bar makes a bit more sense for city riding, somewhat more upright posture etc. Road drop I mostly ride up on the Brifter hoods, which allows a similarly relaxed posture, afaik. I want disc's out of various reasons, not the least of which is pure Sexyness, but also better wheel/rim durability and better stopping power in Crap weather. The frame is on its way, so Don't try to talk me out of discs!
 

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I say go for some offroad drops (on-one mary, salsa woodchipper, WTB dirt drop, nitto rando or dirt drop, etc), or regular drops, BB7 road & whichever STI system floats your boat & works in the configuration you want.
You could also go for bar-cons (durable/simple), regular BB7's & linear/long pull drop bar levers(eg tektro rl520). That would make is easier to go flat bar w/ mtb shifter/levers down the road, if you wanted to.
 

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For some reason... Shimano MTB 10-speed is only for MTB only... no mixing in matching with the Dyna-Sys system.

What cassette are you looking at?
32T?
34T?
36T?

with that....what cranks, for what I assume to be a 2x10? I assume you're looking at a road crank... compact? 50x34T?

for flat bars, since the brake lever separate from the shifter... there is a degree of flexibility of mechanical disc brake levers, which I'm assuming you're going to go with...but keep in mind, flat bar levers = mtb brakes. Flat bar levers + road disc brakes means the brakes engage when your fingers (index & middle) are more extended.

with road bars... maybe you can also install secondary levers as well.
 

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SRAM has it's wifi system, been very popular matched with a compact crankset.

Avid brakes are nice, shimano has a new road set coming out that says they are 30 percent stronger for stoping.

If you do go road levers and bars, throw a set of inline brake levers on. They work excellent.

Bill
 

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Obviously, if you go with flat bars things are simple: any mountain groupset with shifters and crankset you like. The advantage here is that you can use hydraulic brakes; I understand that they give better modulation (control) and lighter lever effort than mechanical.

With road bars the only hydraulic levers are the new Sram. I think they work with Wi-Fli 11-32 cassettes and RD. To use a bigger cassette than that you'll have to go with a mountain RD, as you mentioned, but I don't know which are compatible with the pull ratio of the shifters.
A compact 50/34 crankset with big cog of 32 gives a pretty easy climbing gear.

Tektro (TRP) just came out with their Hy-Rd cable-actuated hydraulic calipers that work with any levers. The reviews are very good so far.
TRP also has new Spyre mechanical calipers that are lightweight, dual-piston and advertised to give 20% better braking but they aren't available quite yet. Literally any day now.

My Trek CrossRip has BB5s and aux levers on road bars and I love 'em. I'm never far from a brake lever and still have lots of positions so I can move around on the bike to avoid soreness and cramping. I'll upgrade to the Spyre calipers as soon as I can get them for a decent price.
 

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I do like the sound of the dual piston TRP. Are you planning to run discs 140/160 (r/f)?

What forks are you getting?

I have been thinking of building a disc road bike. Just waiting for manufacturers to come up with one for a road bike and not Cx. Max road tyres 28mm. Cx forks have so much room over the tyres because they are meant for 38mm tyres that they do not look that nice.
 

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I do like the sound of the dual piston TRP.
They are a great idea, I don't know why it took so long for someone to make them.

When you squeeze the lever on a single-piston caliper the moveable pad has to bend the rotor to force it against the fixed pad. Adjusting the caliper is always a compromise between getting the fixed pad close to the rotor and keeping it from dragging and making noise.
With a dual piston design both pads retract away from the rotor and none of the energy is wasted bending it. Should eliminate the noise problem.

The prices I've seen are $80+ per wheel but no one has them in stock yet. That is about twice what you can get Hayes CX-5s for but I'm hoping the price will drop some when the discounters get them in stock.
The Hy-Rds with hydraulic cylinder are available now for $105 a wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
thanks for the great ideas guys, I think at this point I´m going to do a flat-bar setup with SRAM WiFli 32T and a compact crank, gonna try to hold out for these TRP Spyres. Hunched over racing drops just don´t make that much sense in hectic city traffic. Can someone definitively say that X0 or X9 trigger shifters work with Force or Rival or Apex deraileurs? Or should I do the whole group from the mtb side..

Also, whats some of the cheapest online discount shops to get this stuff at in europe?
 

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I´m going to do a flat-bar setup with SRAM WiFli 32T and a compact crank, gonna try to hold out for these TRP Spyres. Can someone definitively say that X0 or X9 trigger shifters work with Force or Rival or Apex deraileurs? Or should I do the whole group from the mtb side..
This mix and match thing gets complicated.
It would be easy to use mountain Ds (medium cage rear) with matching trigger shifters, but the front probably won't shift as well as a road model designed for double chainrings. We'll have to wait for someone else to advise what you need to do there.

Now you have to be careful what brake levers you buy. Those Spyre brakes are road models and won't work as well with long-pull V-brake levers. Just make sure that you get "standard" levers.

I looked at the link to the frame and see they list it as a "road" model, so what is the rear spacing: 130 or 135mm?

Sorry, I'm in US so don't know where you can buy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
So it looks like the S700 shifters are a good match for whichever SRAM road derailleurs I can afford when the time comes. For barends my faves are the Cane Creek Ergogrip II, although being rubber they kindof disappear (rub off) after a year or two. Anyone know of a metal equivalent?

Brake-wise I guess getting an MTB system makes sense then. There´s so many options available though. Any suggestions for low-maintenance hydraulics? Or do you guys think I should still try to go the mechanical route?
 

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I was in the same boat as you escept I'm not in an anrea with quite as big of hills. I got tired of waiting for foundry to releae the stuff they promised aloooong time ago so I built this:





Salsa Colossal Ti build, I replaced the drivetrain with Campy Centaur 2x10 I have a 12-30 cassette on the back, and a standard 39x53 crank, but a 34x50 compact would go nicely as well. It's about 17 pounds with pedals, will last a lifetime longer than a stable of carbon frames, and it's dang good looking if I say so myself.

The BB7 road brakes have amazing power, great modulation once you get them bedded in well, and have zero heat buildup problems that are feared with hydro's.

I actually have an extra set because I was planning on building up a frame and I ended up buying the whole bike and just swapping the drivetrain. PM me if you are interested in them, They are brand new in box and I'll let them go for a song...

 
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