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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am seriously considering building up a carbon frame and adding Campy components. I am looking at the Centaur group and I was wondering if there are any pitfalls or problems you can help me avoid.

Much thanks.
 

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Centaur is fine. I can't really think of any trouble you will have. If you run into something specific, just post about it. Somebody will know what to do.
 

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I have 9k miles on my Centaur gruppo, and it has worked flawlessly, training and racing. These have been hard miles, too--a lot of tough winter miles, with dirt roads, sand, and road salt. The only serious complaint I hear people making about Centaur is the Escape mechanism only allows single cog downshifts with each push of the thumb lever, but this doesn't bother me at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Thanks for the tips. I have also read about the loss of the gear dumping and that is not an issue for me. Currently the biggest difficulty is getting clear answers from the frame people as to the BB prep and the fork bearings. I will most likely find that the Campy stuff is not the problem; it looks like the labor costs for the things I cannot do will be prohibitive. I may just upgrade the Shimano stuff on one of my current bikes.

BTW, does anyone know if I can take out a standard newer cartridge BB out of a current frame and replace it with the Campy Ultra Torque BB cups ( English thread) and then just install the Crank?
 

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There should be no problem changing out the cartridge BB for UT. The UT is very easy to install; I removed my crankset, took off the BB, cleaned everything, and reinstalled it all in less than 30 minutes.
 

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advice...

Don't waste your money on Centaur shifters, '07 or newer, with the escape mechanism. Get Chorus or Record shifters that have the 9 click with one push thumb button.

The answers to your BB installation questions can mostly be answered by reading the instructions at www.campagnolo.com. You should have a Park BBT-19 tool to torque the cups or a 16 spline Shimano box end wrench if loctite 222 is used.

Facing the BB shell is not a bad idea, but I've never found it necessary. I carefully remove the paint from both faces, screw the cups in until they contact a .010 inch feeler gare, then use .008-.012 inch feelers to check for high or low spots. If no area exceeds those limits, facing would be a waste of money.

The BB shell width must also be checked to be within the 68mm + or - .8mm range.
 
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