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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,
Can anyone suggest a Wheelbuilder that would put H Plus Son Archetypes on White MI5 hubs I would mail them? Or could drop them off if it's not that far from Boston.
I haven't needed wheels in several years and the guys I've used in the past seem to have moved on from wheelbuilding and what I could find of well reviewed wheelbuilders from google it seems building with customer hubs isn't something they do.

Thanks,
 

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I would contact Ben at Velomine (Velomine.com). Not sure if he can do it, but he was super helpful in my wheel search and he does builds with H Plus Son Archetypes. He's located in Illinois. It's been a few years since I spoke with him, so I'm not sure if any of this will be of help, but it's worth an email or phone call. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you, burgrat. I'll email him and see where that goes.

Since posting this I stumbled upon Stoic Wheels in Portland Oregon which I'm getting good vibes from their Website and reviews I've found. If anyone has experience with them I'd like to hear it. I plan to email him too.
 

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I would contact Ben at Velomine (Velomine.com). Not sure if he can do it, but he was super helpful in my wheel search and he does builds with H Plus Son Archetypes. He's located in Illinois. It's been a few years since I spoke with him, so I'm not sure if any of this will be of help, but it's worth an email or phone call. Good luck!
One caution about Velomine. They don't stress relieve their wheels. If you know how to do this yourself, it's not the biggest issue. If not, well, you will be having the wheels re-trued after a couple of rides.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Peter, If you're serious; first off thank you, and second, I may actually take you up on that if it comes to it. I didn't call anyone today because it's a holiday but if the prospects I have don't pan out I'd gladly drive to Ct before any of the local bike shops around here (maybe some have a legit wheelmaker but not that I'm aware of so the LBS option is out).
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
One caution about Velomine. They don't stress relieve their wheels. If you know how to do this yourself, it's not the biggest issue. If not, well, you will be having the wheels re-trued after a couple of rides.
Thanks for the heads up. I don't know a ton about it but that's another way of saying they make wheels but don't finish the job as far as I know.
 

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Thanks for the heads up. I don't know a ton about it but that's another way of saying they make wheels but don't finish the job as far as I know.
Pretty much. They even have a note with the wheels that states you will need to re-true them after the first few rides.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Looks like you're probably off the hook Peter (or missed out on a good lunch because I know what a wheel build costs and would have been happy to spend it on a lunch payment). I called a couple guys today, good vibes from both and both willing to use my hubs and use the rims I want. Thanks again for the offer, I'll stow it in the back of my mind in case I ever need it.
 

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On a side note, I love H Plus Rims, they're light and spin up fast and give 28-30mm tires a nice shape because of how wide they are. Only wish the brake track anodization would last forever.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yes, I'm a big fan of H Plus Archetypes too. I've tried others but use only those now for both road and gravel. The set that's topic of this post has been beat to heck and now need replacement due to the brake track being worn below the wear indicator. They must have a nice think brake track (or are liberal with their indicator) because I have way more miles and riding with gritty pads/hard braking then I did on the only other set I wore past the indicator (which were Hed C2 rims and also nice but pretty expensive)
 

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Jay, have you thought of doing a lace over with the new rims. Seems you’re using the same type.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Not sure what 'lace over' means but I only need new rims but between the spokes having a ton of hard miles on them and that it'll probably save the cost of new spokes with mailing two hubs being a lot cheaper than mailing two wheels.....I figure I may as well get new spokes and nips while I'm at it.
 

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With road wheels I have often taped a new rim of the same ERD to the old wheel in the same orientation then one-by-one transfer spoke and nipple to the new rim.

This method means that the “old spokes” are going to be utilized in the same direction tangentially and when the wheel is trued up and stress reduced they should continue to work as they are now with your current wheelset.
 

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With road wheels I have often taped a new rim of the same ERD to the old wheel in the same orientation then one-by-one transfer spoke and nipple to the new rim.

This method means that the “old spokes” are going to be utilized in the same direction tangentially and when the wheel is trued up and stress reduced they should continue to work as there are now with your current wheelset.
Depending on the mileage on the wheel set, it may be more prudent to just replace the spokes and nipples as they are relatively inexpensive.
 

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Depending on the mileage on the wheel set, it may be more prudent to just replace the spokes and nipples as they are relatively inexpensive.
Seems you’re not counting wheel building labor, most likely because you build your own wheels. That’s great if you have that skill.

I was just offering an alternative, one that has worked well for me and I have raced on many times.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I addressed this in post #15.

The last time I had to mail a full wheel, I forget exactly what it cost but it was definitely more than what I expect to pay for labor on a new one. Mailing just hubs will be a lot cheaper. Add in spoke and nip cost, I don't know if that plus labor will be more than shipping or not but I'm not trying to pinch pennys so will error on the side of replacing old spokes that have a ton or hard riding on them.
I don't have the time or desire to learn to do it myself. Maybe when I retire I'll figure that out but for now it's well worth the $50 or so to have someone who's an expert to do it for me.
 

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Seems you’re not counting wheel building labor, most likely because you build your own wheels. That’s great if you have that skill.

I was just offering an alternative, one that has worked well for me and I have raced on many times.
I doubt that wheel building labor cost would be much different in these two scenarios. The builder still has to unlace, lace, tension, true and stress the wheels. The only thing he wouldn't have to do in the one scenario is calculate new spoke lengths.
 
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