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For what its worth, I had a similar chat with Lynskey last week. I am 6'4" 215 and they recommended the R240 over the R150. I liked the more classic tube profles of the R150, though, and don't plan to do any racing on it. I did some digging around online and found a few accounts of clydes on 150s without any complaints of flex. Based on my previous experiences with different road bikes (granted, no Ti) I decided to just go for the 150.

Unfortunately, I won't have any ride reports for a few months while I collect parts for the build but I'll do my best to remember to update once I do.
Thank you for the info. I'll look forward to your feedback. Where parts/group are you using to do the build?
 

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Thank you for the info. I'll look forward to your feedback. Where parts/group are you using to do the build?
That's still in flux a bit depending on what sort of deals I can hunt down. This is going to be a winter project and I'll be collecting parts over the next month or two. I've always ridden single speed in one form or another (BMX, single speed city bike/commuter, SS 29'er). This will be my first "proper" road bike and I'll be looking to use it on training rides, weekend club rides, and hoping to get up to a century by end of summer. Basically an all around-er.

As for the build up:
Thinking of a Campy group. Maybe the new Potenza if I can find a deal, Veloce if I decide to be budget conscious. I keep waffling on forks. I'm strangely fond of the Wound Up but think Enve would offer better clearance if I want to squeeze a 28mm on for some gravel. As a bigger dude I'll probably get a bulkier 32 or 36 hole wheelset since we have some rough roads up here in VT. Maybe Open Pros, Archetypes, or Dyads.

The rest remains to be seen. I'd like to keep it looking sleek and classic with comfort in mind.

I actually just received the frame last night and it looks great. Welds are nice and clean with that "stack of dimes" look that is sought after on Ti. The downtube is actually wider than the pictures let on with some amount of "ovalizing" that seems similar to the R240 and should add some stiffness. It all looks quite sturdy to me but the ride will tell the story. It really looks even better in person than in photos. I'm very pleased.

Weight (with some bubble wrap still attached) is ~1700g. I'll report back once I start building it up. This thread was very helpful with my decision so I hope to contribute!
 

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Hi,

My R150LE L size is making tick tick noise when pedaling, I'm not quite sure where the sound is coming from.
Does anyone knows which type of Bottom Bracket the bike came with? I think it's BB30 with 68mm in width, I'd like the tool to dismount the cranks and then the BB shell to clean and relube, retighten.
 

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Hi,

My R150LE L size is making tick tick noise when pedaling, I'm not quite sure where the sound is coming from.
Does anyone knows which type of Bottom Bracket the bike came with? I think it's BB30 with 68mm in width, I'd like the tool to dismount the cranks and then the BB shell to clean and relube, retighten.
If you don't know and can't tell what kind of crank and BB you have just by looking at it, you are probably better off not screwing with it. It is possible to overtighten the cranks and BB, and you don't even know if they are the issue.

Go to a decent shop. It is unlikely to be an expensive fix, and they can educate you about your bike and what tools are required.
 

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Hi,

My R150LE L size is making tick tick noise when pedaling, I'm not quite sure where the sound is coming from.
Does anyone knows which type of Bottom Bracket the bike came with? I think it's BB30 with 68mm in width, I'd like the tool to dismount the cranks and then the BB shell to clean and relube, retighten.
I'm pretty certain that your bike has a standard 68mm threaded BB. So something like this:

Shimano BBR60 Ultegra Bottom Bracket | Jenson USA

You'll need a $15 Shimano BB wrench to get the current one out (JensonUSA Shimano Style BB Tool | Jenson USA or similar) , as well as other tools to remove the crankset, depending on brand (Shimano need this: Shimano TL-FC16 Crankset Arm Tool | Jenson USA).

Also check your pedals. They could be loose or could need a bit of grease on the threads. Or the saddle, or seat post, or stem, or a back wheel skewer that's not tight enough, or a loose cassette lockring, or... ticks when pedaling can come from totally unexpected places. It's a fun thing to track down.
 

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I am anxiously awaiting delivery of my Lynskey R260. Never having owned a Ti frame before, I want to know how to care for it. Other than washing it, just like any other frame you are about, is there any special care required to protect the Milled finish?
 

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I am anxiously awaiting delivery of my Lynskey R260. Never having owned a Ti frame before, I want to know how to care for it. Other than washing it, just like any other frame you are about, is there any special care required to protect the Milled finish?

Just wipe it with Pledge.
 

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Pledge, hunh?! Not something I normally stock in my cleaning supplies. Will Armorall (or similar) work? I used to use that instead of paste wax on my motorcycle, when I had one, as a final finish after washing. If that won't work, I guess I'll take the Pledge (ba-dum-bum! ((Rimshot)) )
 
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