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la dolce vita
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I've run Michelins and Conti's and I gotta tell you I like Vredstein Fortezza and Maxxis Refuse better for comfort, grip and durability. My Pro 2's just cut so easily and the Conti's never seemed to last. Just my opinion.
 

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I just recently put some Continental GP4000S (I think these are black chili compound?) tires on my bike. So far, with one race, three solo rides, and one 65mile fast group ride I like them alot.

I've ridden a total of 10 miles on pro3's so I can't really comment on them.
 

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Blind tests

nismosr said:
is there really a difference in performance with the newer model tire ? and which do you guys prefer or currently in running and how do you guys like it?
Too bad nobody has figured out how to do a blind test on tires, because I really doubt that most people could tell one comparable tire from another. And for those who could tell them apart, I'd be surprised if their feelings would correlate with any real measurements. Buy tires based on price and color :)
 

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I don't know about that; there are some tires I have tried that I've taken off even while they had some like left due to not liking them. The Conti attack (or whatever the front-specific one of the paired tires is) never felt secure in terms of grip and scared me on aggressive descents. I was tempted by a sale to try a top-end Panaracer and it lasted a couple of rides on my bike-felt like it was solid rubber in terms of comfort. I've been riding the Conti400s this season and really like them - feel great, grippy, and great puncture resistence despite crummy Socal roads...
 

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I think Conti 4000 puncture resistance is just OK (7 out of 10?), nothing special. I was lucky with first set, only 3-4 flats in ~9000km but on my second set I got 2 flats on my 3rd ride. The proof is puncture resistance on wet road. 90% of my flats have been on wet roads. I dont rate Conti 4000 high on puncture resistance. Sidewalls are a bit weak too. Else it is a nice training tyre. I have not tried 4000S but it does not offer any more puincture protection compared to standard 4000. I am going back to Michelin Krylion Carbon, they last longer, puncture less and have almost the same performance as Conti 4000, for training anyhow.
 

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Cpark
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I have about 2000 miles on my 4000S and so far so good.
No flat, no cut and seems to roll well like the most of the high end tires are suppose to....
The front one looks like a lot more miles left on it while the back one might last another 1000 to 2000 miles.
 

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nismosr said:
is there really a difference in performance with the newer model tire ? and which do you guys prefer or currently in running and how do you guys like it?
We have found with the Pro3 Race there is up to 27% more grip on the tires in wet weather, while decreasing the weight by 20 grams and having the same longevity and durability all while only raising the price by $2.00.

Give them a shot and see for yourself if there is an improvement over the Pro2 Races. :thumbsup:
 

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I am in the market for some new tires too. So far Michlins pro 2 are great, fast and grippy and light. Vreds are really good too, slightly heavier i think but well made.

i am torn between Pro3s and Vittoria Open tubulars for a set of Reynolds wheels, though I also bought an extra set of pro2s on sale for my kysriums

Anyone have extra opinions on open tubulars?
 

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Open tubulars and front tire wear

gitoutdaway said:
Anyone have extra opinions on open tubulars?
Open Tubular is just a marketing name for a company's tires. The argument is something like "same construction as our tubular tire, just not sewn up and with a bead for mounting." There is no standard definition of what makes an open tubular. Any manufacturer can claim that any of their tires is an open tubular. That said, typically this designation is given to the higher-end tires in the line. Pay no attention to that designation.

cpark said:
The front one looks like a lot more miles left on it while the back one might last another 1000 to 2000 miles.
Tires wear due to power disipation - the rubber is sheared off the tread due to either pedaling or braking forces. If you don't do a lot of heavy braking, a front tire will hardly wear at all. I have weighed front tires after 6,000 miles and seen around 5 grams of weight loss and no measureable tread thinning.
 

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So an "Open Tubular" is basically a fancy, higher priced clincher? Higher TPI? No other attributes differentiating it from other high end clinchers such as those being discussed?

Thats kinda what I thought but a few bike shop people have been touting their vastly superior ride lately. IS it just a way to sell an even more expensive product?
 

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gitoutdaway said:
Thats kinda what I thought but a few bike shop people have been touting their vastly superior ride lately. IS it just a way to sell an even more expensive product?
It is market-speak. It *might* relate to a different construction method (tread glued to the casing rather than vulcanized?) but there is no improvement in Crr or "ride" as far as I can tell.
 

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Figures. It is s interesting how market pressures force everyone to come out with the "latest greatest" every single year no mattter what. I'm sure this also leads to progress but so often its like re-inventing the wheel so to speak.
 

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Carbon Fiber = Explode!
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chili goes pop.
 

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The probable origins

gitoutdaway said:
Figures. It is s interesting how market pressures force everyone to come out with the "latest greatest" every single year no mattter what. I'm sure this also leads to progress but so often its like re-inventing the wheel so to speak.
"Open Tubular" is a term that came out of Europe, and from the makers of tubulars who finally came around to supplying high performance clinchers. Since it used to be that race tires were only tubulars, these folks wanted everyone to know that their high end clinchers were "just like their tubulars" and gave the impression that these tires were tubulars with a bead and not stitched up. Hence the "open" reference.
 

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The 290 cotton thread count on the Vit Open Tubular are pretty compy. try them between 95-105 PSI. I'm on a pair now and have enjoyed them. However, I will go back to Conti's after I wear these out.

I have been riding Conti's on and off for 22 years. They grip well enough for me, roll nicely, are lite, and last for ever. 2,000 miles seems about right.

I have tried Michelin's on and off but never really liked them due to the ease inwhich they cut and I never seem to get more than 700-1000 miles out of them if they last that long without cutting.
 

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Is is true that the new ProRace3 tires are narrower than ProRace2s? One of the things I like about Michelin tires is the wider tread. My 700x23 Michelins measure 25 mm, and my 25s measure 27-28 mm wide. If this is true, I will need to order 700x25 Michelins from now on. Also, do the wider treads apply to Krylions as well?
 

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tarwheel2 said:
Is is true that the new ProRace3 tires are narrower than ProRace2s? One of the things I like about Michelin tires is the wider tread. My 700x23 Michelins measure 25 mm, and my 25s measure 27-28 mm wide. If this is true, I will need to order 700x25 Michelins from now on. Also, do the wider treads apply to Krylions as well?
the 20/23/25 in 700x20/23/25 has nothing to do with width. That number denotes the height of the tire. You'll notice that across brands, there is no consistency reagrding the width of a 700x23 tire. They are all 23mm tall though. You may find that 700x25's are no wider than 700x23's once mounted (although they probably are).

Having said that, I apologize for not answering your question as I have no idea - (have not mounted my Pro3's yet).
 

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Width and height

wilier said:
the 20/23/25 in 700x20/23/25 has nothing to do with width. That number denotes the height of the tire. You'll notice that across brands, there is no consistency reagrding the width of a 700x23 tire. They are all 23mm tall though.
Uh, I think you are completely confused. With the exception of the thickness of the tread, an inflated tire is just about as close to round as it can be. If one tire is a 23 and another is a 25 (same brand/model) then the 25 will be pretty darn close to 2 mm wider (and taller) than the 23.

Are you really claiming that a 20, 23 and a 25 are the same width, but the 25 has 5 mm more tread than the 20? That is the only way you could make an inflated tire taller than it is wide. BTW, total tread thickness on a typical 23mm tire is about 2 mm.
 

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The only tire I've tried (from the ones you mentioned) is the Pro 2. I've got 1,800 miles on them with 3 or 4 ITT's so far. They seem pretty durable. I can't see myself using another brand.

I'l looking forward to trying out the Pro 3's.
 
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