[punchy]

Hello. I have set up the bike with an On One Midge Bar and TT200 Crane creek bar end brake levers. Won't go into too much detail for now. Basically, I have new cables (Clarks Universal brake kit), and the braking is quite poor, worse than it was with the drop bar levers I had on it previously. It was actually quite good with the drop bar levers, but I wasn't keen on the look as they are tricky to set up on a Midge bar, and I couldn't access the hoods as the Midge has an unusual bar bend.

Anyone have any ideas on how I can rectify this problem ? Or what I may have done wrong ? Anything ? Before I put any bar tape on I want o fix the braking issue first.

Any help very much appreciated.

 

[logbiter]

First- make sure the housing has been cut flush and there's nothing causing cable friction at the housing ends. If that isn't it, try foregoing putting the housing under the tape (too many bends), just run it along the straight section, a la bar-con routing. (image from a google image search)
View attachment 277534

 

[0.2HP]

"If that isn't it, try foregoing putting the housing under the tape (too many bends), just run it along the straight section, a la bar-con routing."

I agree. Try taking off the black tape that is making the cables go around the curves of teh handlebar. Just connect the front brake cable once, near the center of the handlebar right above the brake. If brake performance improces, you problem is too maney curves int eh cable creating friction.

 

[punchy]

Thanks for the feed back guys.

Just to clarify where im at. I originally had a normal drop bar on the bike. With Crane Creek drop bar brake levers. The braking was fine. I then attached the Midge bar with the same drop bar levers. Brakes were fine.

I then decided to put on the TT200 bar end brake levers. Braking was poor. So I then put the newer cables on. Braking was still poor.

I have taken the advice you's have given me. So I have taken off the electrical tape, tried it again with no restrictions on the cable, but still poor braking. I really can't see how the tape would affect the brake cables, because any bar tape is going to amplify the problem much more than the electrical tape on its own would. Also, its quite normal to run the cables along the handle bar anyways. Ive used this method many times and it has never been a problem.

Any other suggestions ?

What I might try next is to fit a bull bar I have laying around. Attach the TT200 levers as the are designed to do (which are made for bull bars) and see how it goes. If the braking is still poor I might just try a different lever. I could use the Crane Creek drop bar lever I originally had on there, but as I said in my first post, I dont rerally like the aesthetic look of them on the Midge, and you can't really access the hoods properly due to the unusual angle of the Midge. Also, the levers had a small little fault. The pivot which the lever sits on for some reason seems to work it way sidewards and gradually tries to work its way out of its seating position. Wasn't too much of an issue on the normal drop I had, as the levers sat straight up and the pivot took a while to unseat itself. I just simply pushed it back in as I was riding. But on the Midge, they are seated on an angle, which amplifies the pivot or spigot or whatever its called trying to work its way loose.

If I can't figure any of this out, I might just buy a different brand lever all together, and give it a different set up. :idea:

 

[logbiter]

I'm not at all familiar with those levers, but have run midge bars with ultegra STI (til that bike was stolen) and currently with bar-end shifters set up like the pic I linked & tektro rl520 brake levers. It was a pain to tighten down the bolts on levers! It had to be with a ball end hex & not great purchase. I've no more than a couple short rides on this set up, but no issues so far.

Might be something to do with those levers... have you tried them with just a short section of brake housing to see what the friction is like?

Oh yeah, what exactly do you mean by poor braking? I'm assuming friction with levers not springing back.

 

[0.2HP]

"The pivot which the lever sits on for some reason seems to work it way sidewards and gradually tries to work its way out of its seating position."

Guess B.

Look at the levers when you squeeze them with what you would like to be normal braking force. Are the levers, and/or the housing that is mounted on the handle bars twisting? If so this would explain:
1. The pivot working its way out sideways. The lever/housing twists and pushes the pivot every time you squeeze hard.
2. Poor braking, if you mean you have to squeeze hard to get the bike to stop. You are using up force twisting the levers and less force is going to pulling the cable to close the calibers.

 

[refund!?]

I've got four of my bikes set up with Midge bars and various brake handles. I use compressionless housing (Full Metal Jacket, Ripcord, Yokozuna Reaction), minimal housing runs, and high quality end-caps. The braking performance and ergonomics of the brake handles are excellent. I've attached a couple photos of the set-ups with just brake handles (The other two are SRAM Rival and Ultegra)

Based on my and your experience, I'd get rid of the goofy brake handles, and try various positions for your drop bar brake handles.

I like the Midge bars and the brake handle positions they afford (Although it's not for everyone). If you like the flared ends but a more conventional brake handle position, try Salsa's Woodchipper bars.

 

[punchy]

Hey fella's. Just an update. Fiddled around with the set up yesterday. I bolted up the Bull horn bar and TT200 levers. I also reset the angle of the pads on the rear. The fronts were ok, but the back pads were a little out. So pads are now touching the rim with the front of the pad first, just slightly before the back does. Also, I haven't mentioned before. im using Swiss top black pads. So you would assume they would be a quality product that would provide good braking. Ok, the cables are not high end, but they are brand new, and im using the correct type. I had a different end on them before and had to file them to fit. But I have the exact cable required for the lever now. Not that it really matters, as I haven't noticed any difference from the old cable to the new.

Anyways, after the set up change, I took the bike out for another spin. Still not happy. Id say fractionally better, but not what I would like or expect. I wouldn't feel comfortable in an emergency stop, put it that way. If I operate both levers, the brakes work ok. But individually they just don't give me much confidence. The fronts pull up adequately, but the rears won't even lock up under maximum pressure. They will when fronts are applied together, but not when just the rear brake is applied. In comparison to my Surly Cross check with Canti's and Tektro drop levers and larger tyres and heavier wheel (Rohloff hub), it instantly locks up the wheel with minimal effort.

I then considered changing back to the Midge and drop levers, after having a good look at Refunds pics (thanks for the pics mate ! those bikes are real nice examples). So I had a better look at the Crane Creek drop levers that were originally on the bike with the normal drop bar. I noticed that the inner spring and a bush was missing from one of the levers ! I was pissed ! So that would explain the pivot coming loose all the time, and the small amount of play I noticed in the lever. It also rules out fitting them back on the bike with the Midge for now.

Refunds brake lever on the Midge do look odd though, they look nice but how do they feel for comfort and accessibility ? Do they provide quick access in an emergency stop ? Im asking because I had mine mounted a little lower down the bar. So I could have easier access to them.

So what do you's reckon ? Anything I can do to fine tune the Bull horn set up ? Can they be improved ?? Or should I go back to the Midge with the drop levers ? The Midge bar was my first choice though,and the braking was MUCH better with the drop levers. Answered my own question really haven't I ?

But, would still like to hear some tips or advice. As im not really an experienced bike mechanic, and still learning here.

Cheers

 

[shaggydv]

I run Midge bars with cane creek levers and I love the feel of them, even after 50 plus miles. Actually I'm thinking about putting Midge bars and Sram Red on my Foundry Auger for the DK200, its that comfortable, in the right position. I had wtb hated them. And the first time I set up the midge bars I didn't much care for them either but after some adjusting I found a sweet spot.
As for your bar end cane creek brakes, I've had those as well. I had them set up on bullhorns, and had the same poor performance that you are experiencing.