The notion is that the greater the number of spokes the lesser the load (lateral, radial, torsional) each has to carry; the lesser the load, the lesser the imposed fatigue (on spoke and rim drilling) and the higher the spoke longevity and thus wheel integrity.What is the correct setup? I want to build up a strong training wheelset.
24/28 Sapim Race spokes
28/32 CX-Ray Spokes
What is the right way to understand this notion? In short, does spoke quantity outweigh spoke thickness for a stronger wheel?
yes you can control spoke twist. is it 'easier'? no. it requires a dedicated tool. as dc says below, they're fine for an experienced builder, but i would never, ever, say it's easier to build a wheel w/ bladed spokes.dcgriz - Excellent points, well stated. My only exception would be that if by "flatter" spokes, you mean bladed spokes, you underestimate how psychotically easy those are to build with. You have basically complete ability to eliminate windup, and a careful builder has like almost infinite resolution in making tiny corrections.
No doubt Dave the more often something its done the easier it becomes. I am assuming the OP is brand new in the wheel building scene and as such I consider the Race easier to start with.
We disagree on that then. I find it dead simple and always have, because you have complete control of the spoke. The elegant version of the dedicated tool costs $6 or $7 and you can make your own with basically anything on hand if you have a hacksaw. No biggie, though.yes you can control spoke twist. is it 'easier'? no. it requires a dedicated tool. as dc says below, they're fine for an experienced builder, but i would never, ever, say it's easier to build a wheel w/ bladed spokes.