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Hi All :)

I really got into cycling last year with my mountain bike, I bought it because I thought it was a good value bike with 2 disc breaks and 24 gears, a Giant Terrago 2005 Disc, specs in this link: http://www.giant-bicycles.com/uk/030.000.000/030.010.000.asp?year=2005&model=10151. It cost £400 ($700) new and I have spend at least £800 ($1400) all in on other parts

It weighs in at 14.5kg or about 16kg with my lock on it = 35lbs, steel frame heavy. I did the following upgrades to the bike during its time:

Replaced front drivechain to 48/38/28 from 44/34/24
Replaced rear cassette from 34 - 11 8spd to 28 - 11 8spd
Replaced 2" XC tyres with 1 1/2" slick road tyres
Replaced stock saddle with a bel air performance saddle

Now the wheels are out of true and the rims are bent, causing the disc breaks to keep rubbing and my frame is scratched because of the lock.

1. Would it be worth changing my 1 1/2" tyres at 90psi to 1" tyres at 110psi for the last few months I have the bike? i.e. 2mph speed increase??

I am sick of this bike and only ride on the roads really anyway and would like to get a road bike as I feel that the bike is limiting me. Myself, I am 6' 0" 172 lbs and have the muscle and legpower to reach 27 mph on a flat sprint on that bike.

I am from the UK and am looking for something decent this time within the £3000 region
($5000)

2. Would you recommend a compact road geometry or normal road geometry for me as I am from a MTB background?

I looked at the giant TCR composite 1 bicycle and like it, but carbon fibre is just too much of a risk. I am pretty much settled on a litespeed vortex now, with ultegra groupset.

3. Any comments on how I would find a bike that is actually half of my current bikes weight with higher gearing to ride, come on inspire me!

4. Also, how long do the bikes take to deliver? (8 weeks?!?)

5. Finally is asking for a 10% discount off the retail price i.e. £300 or $500 worth of stuff like pedals and shoes being cheeky?

Sorry for all the questions but its giving me restless nights, staying up looking at bike p0rn :eek:
 

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Advice

TI_roadracer said:
1. Would it be worth changing my 1 1/2" tyres at 90psi to 1" tyres at 110psi for the last few months I have the bike? i.e. 2mph speed increase??

2. Would you recommend a compact road geometry or normal road geometry for me as I am from a MTB background?

3. Any comments on how I would find a bike that is actually half of my current bikes weight with higher gearing to ride, come on inspire me!

4. Also, how long do the bikes take to deliver? (8 weeks?!?)

5. Finally is asking for a 10% discount off the retail price i.e. £300 or $500 worth of stuff like pedals and shoes being cheeky?
First, your experience to date highlights the folly of spending a lot of money to upgrade a relatively low-line bike. You've spent $2K and got an $900 bike to show for it. Second, $5K is WAY past what most people would consider "decent." Virtually any bike you buy at that price will meet your weight target, and based on your comments, your best bet is to link up with a good shop that will help you get a good fit and a bike that fits your needs. Now to your questions:

1. No tire will give you 2 mph. If you have slicks on now, going to 23-25 mm tires might give you a couple of tenths of an mph. Your speed is mostly limited by aerodynamics in the upright MTB position.

2. "Compact geometry" really just means a sloping top tube. In principle, it doesn't change the way the bike handles, so it is only a "decider" if you have problems straddling the top tube. Otherwise, ignore this issue when looking for a bike.

3. As noted above, at your suggested price point, all bikes are great, and you need to focus on fit and things that make you happy, like color or reputation.

4. Depends completely on the specific bike. Some are in stock in your shop, and some take over a year to get built.

5. Yes. Find a bike you like, and ask what the shop can do for you. Selling bikes is not a way for anyone to get rich, and so asking the shop to take 10% off the top is asking them to take that money right out of their (empty) pockets and give it to you. If you don't like their total price, then go to a different shop.
 

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Maybe not...

Actually, I would like to disagree with your comment about asking for a discount on accessories when you buy a bike, especially an expensive bike from an lbs. I have worked at many shops in the past, put myself through uni by doing this, and each one I worked at offered a ten percent discount on items such as helmets, shoes and shorts if you purchased a bike over five hundred dollars. You are correct in saying that bike shops do not have a very high profit margin to play with, but that mainly applies to the bikes themselves. Bikes usually have a price range starting at twenty-five to thirty-five percent over the wholesale cost of the bike itself, but the accessories however usually have about a fifty percent markup. So with that in mind, and you are about to drop three thousand quid on a new ride; no, it isn’t cheeky to ask for a discount at all.
 

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A discount on parts is fairly common but the original poster was asking about a 10% discount on the bike itself and then using those savings to outright buy accessories, in the US you won't get very far with that but who knows for the UK/Europe?

Why is CF too much of a risk? Are you afraid it is going to break more easily or something? That might have been true in the early days of CF but I don't think it is now, if you read some of the older threads here about Carbon fiber you should find information to back that up but I'm too lazy to dig it up for you right now.

Try to find a bike with a more relaxed frame that allows you to not stretch out as much and have more of an upright position like a Roubaix as that will help you transition from a MTB. I would at least make sure that your LBS is aware that you are making the transition and get them to take that into account when doing the fitting and then they can make adjustments for you as you get more used to a road bike.
 

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Finally is asking for a 10% discount off the retail price i.e. £300 or $500 worth of stuff like pedals and shoes being cheeky?

Looks like the question is about three hundred pounds worth of pedals and shoes to me. Sorry if I missread it though.
 

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I'd pass on the Vortex. For $5,000 you should be able to get a Dura-Ace bike.
If you're set on the Vortex, get last year's model with DA and Ksyrium SSLs.

Five grand for ultegra is insane, IMO. You're overpaying.
 

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risky

if this is your first real bike, unless you are really lucky, you will have another bike in a few years. You will learn a lot about position and handling and feel on your first bike. It makes more sence to me to get a lower level (105/ultegra) bike in the $1000+/- price range and then make a better descision on your next high end bike. Fit and preference will change over time. Most top end bikes are on the unforgiving side. (Quick handling and fragile parts) My bro wanted a 16 pound full carbon race bike with a ton of drop, after a year on one he rides a steel frame with a carbon rear triangle and no drop.....go figure
Assess the risk you are taking, then decide.
 
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