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· Roadie with unshaven legs
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought an 18" Specialized Stumpjumper frame on eBay recently. It came with a blown suspension fork. I wanted a rigid bike anyway so I found a Specialized Stumpjumper fork with a 1" steerer that was 5" long. It looked like a 5" steerer would just work so I bid on it. It turns out that it is about 1/8" too short to work on this frame.

So, my options are:
1) get a 1" threaded headset with very low stack height
2) bring the frame to an LBS and have them take 1/16" off both the top and bottom of the head tube
3) get another fork (it already took me two months to find this one)
4) find someone who can somehow put a longer steerer tube onto this fork

Anyone have any other suggestions?
 

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a picture would be worth a zillion words here, but...

I think I can sorta envision the problem. First, when you say 1/8 inch too short, I ask you, too short for what? Is it inside the head tube by 1/8" or is it 1/8" below the headset you now have or what?

I like the ideas of a low stack headset. Some are still around. I have an old steel Campy pista, and it is pretty short.

Milling the headtube would be a next step perhaps.
 

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Squidward said:
1) get a 1" threaded headset with very low stack height
2) bring the frame to an LBS and have them take 1/16" off both the top and bottom of the head tube
3) get another fork (it already took me two months to find this one)
4) find someone who can somehow put a longer steerer tube onto this fork

Anyone have any other suggestions?

1) If you can find a lower stack height, this would be the way to go. Chances are that the headset on the Stumpjumper is about at a minimum.

2) Off the bottom and the steering geometry changes. Depending on whether the headtube is butted, off either side could create some strength issues.

3) Tange and Dimension both make 1" or 1 1/8" threaded forks. Do a quick search for on-line shops or order through the LBS. Cost on either should be <$50.

4) The steerer tube is probably welded, not cryofit. Not worth the trouble.
 

· Roadie with unshaven legs
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
achiral said:
2) Off the bottom and the steering geometry changes. Depending on whether the headtube is butted, off either side could create some strength issues.

3) Tange and Dimension both make 1" or 1 1/8" threaded forks. Do a quick search for on-line shops or order through the LBS. Cost on either should be <$50.

4) The steerer tube is probably welded, not cryofit. Not worth the trouble.
Not a problem changing the steering geometry, it's just a little bit and the steerer angle is already very slack at around 69 degrees. This is probably going to be a city bike when I'm done with it so, again, no big deal.

I know about the Tange fork but wanted to get one that was period correct (hence the Specialized fork with the too-short steerer!). I guess if worst comes to worst, I can swap forks (I have both the 18" Stumpjumper frame being discussed here and a 20" frame from about the same era) and get a new Tange fork for the 20" bike, which will give me an opportunity to switch it to threadless and save some weight.

Yeah, I was thinking that #4 would not be possible.

Thanks for the replies.

I went to an LBS the other day inquiring about removing 1/8" from the head tube and they said that they would not do it not because they didn't want to but because the tools they have are meant to skim off small amounts of material at a time and not to remove the amount that I want to take off. They recommended a frame builder. I'll probably just get a new fork.
 

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Squidward said:
Not a problem changing the steering geometry, it's just a little bit and the steerer angle is already very slack at around 69 degrees. This is probably going to be a city bike when I'm done with it so, again, no big deal.

I know about the Tange fork but wanted to get one that was period correct (hence the Specialized fork with the too-short steerer!). I guess if worst comes to worst, I can swap forks (I have both the 18" Stumpjumper frame being discussed here and a 20" frame from about the same era) and get a new Tange fork for the 20" bike, which will give me an opportunity to switch it to threadless and save some weight.

Yeah, I was thinking that #4 would not be possible.

Thanks for the replies.

I went to an LBS the other day inquiring about removing 1/8" from the head tube and they said that they would not do it not because they didn't want to but because the tools they have are meant to skim off small amounts of material at a time and not to remove the amount that I want to take off. They recommended a frame builder. I'll probably just get a new fork.
Early 90's on these frames? Aluminum frame & fork? If this was the aluminum direct drive fork, you might have some luck calling around your local old-school bike shop. Those forks weren't altogether popular and seemed to be switched out a considerable amount of time.

If you really weren't worried about the geometry and the head tube isn't butted, you can always do it yourself. Get a cutting guide and a hacksaw, take off some material, and have the LBS face the job. This obviously isn't for the faint of heart.
 
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