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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just finished the build. Here are some pics.

I am having set-up issues with the BB7s. I can't get them to clamp down enough without pre-setting them really close to the pads- so close that the discs to rub the pads during free spinning. What am I doing wrong?

I need to put a longer casing on the front brake. The idiot that I am, I cut it too short.
 

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The reality is you will never get that small amount of disc rub from the brakes ... while riding, you won't notice it, only during spinning the wheel when not moving will you hear it.

The way I set the BB7's up on my winter bike is like this:

Move the inside pad in far enough there is 2mm or so space between the pad and the edge of the caliper ... Then tighten the outside (moving) pad tightly against the rotor so it locks it in place. Then squeeze the lever to make sure it's tight ... then lock down the caliper on the bike.

Once the position is set, I'll loosen up the outside pad so there is no contact with the disc, then move the inner pad outwards from the disc until there is no rubbing, or very, very minimal amounts of rubbing. Then pull the brake lever to get a feel for the amount of lever pull ther e is, and adjust the outside (moving) pad as needed for lever feel.

This gives good stopping power ... but will have some minor disc rub.

I'm looking to move to the new TRP brakes for next winter ... they will have dual piston cable actuated brakes. Early reports is they are not quite as powerful as the BB7's but for a winter bike or all around bike they should work fine ... those or the one that has the hydraulic cylinder mounted to the brake and it's actuated by the cable.

Both of the new TRP brakes should eliminate all disc rub ... I've also heard rumors of a re-designed, dual piston cable actuated disc from Avid to be released this fall ... so another possible option down the line.
 

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Nice looking ride. :)
 

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Cranky Old Bastard
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Really nice Lynskey! Wanna get me one of those.

I'm looking to move to the new TRP brakes for next winter ... they will have dual piston cable actuated brakes. Early report is they are not quite as powerful as the BB7's but for a winter bike or all around bike they should work fine.
I'm very interested in the TRP Spyre brakes also and will likely get a set as soon as they are available. Haven't seen them yet.
This review: First Ride: TRP?s New Spyre Dual Piston Mechanical Disc Brake for Cyclocross and Road Bikes | Cyclocross Magazine ? Cyclocross News, Races, Bikes, Photos, Videos says that the braking has tested to be 20% better than BB-7s, sounds good to me! They're a little lighter also.

If you have more reviews please post links, thanks!
 

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Your setup problem is likely not due to your mechanical skills or ability to read the instructions.

It's probably due to a mismatch between the calipers and your Campy levers, which aren't pulling enough cable.

I'd do a search to see who's had success with BB-7's and other brands of road levers.

I do know there are BB-7's for ATB levers and a model for road levers. Is it possible you bought the wrong calipers?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Your setup problem is likely not due to your mechanical skills or ability to read the instructions.

It's probably due to a mismatch between the calipers and your Campy levers, which aren't pulling enough cable.

I'd do a search to see who's had success with BB-7's and other brands of road levers.

I do know there are BB-7's for ATB levers and a model for road levers. Is it possible you bought the wrong calipers?
i bought the bb7 road. Does the bb7s work better with shimano and SRAM better than campy? Basically, the problem is exactly what you stated- it isn't pulling enough cable and the levers actually make contact with the bar.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
put a little preload on the actuation arm of the caliper. adjust and center caliper as normal with pad knobs and cps washers
I thought about that but it seems it just pulls the pads closer together. Can I preload some slack out of the lever pull without actuating the pads?
 

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I have the same slight disc rub on my bike with Campy and BB7. It's only in the front which has the larger rotor.
I was told the rub will go away after about 200 miles as the pads wear in and match the angle of the brakes. I'm at maybe 800 miles and it's gotten better but not completely gone.
I've read it's better with Shimano because Shimano pulled more cable. I've read the same for SRAM but I've also read that SRAM and Campy pull the exact same amount of cable, which contradicts that theory.
I'm going to install TRP HY/RD brakes as soon as they come out. Reading good things about them but not sure if the rub will go away.
 

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it isn't pulling enough cable and the levers actually make contact with the bar.
That's pretty normal with disc brakes on road bikes ... regardless of the lever used. My Shimano levers take about a 3/4 pull before the engage, then it's pretty quick to ramp up ... and pulling to the bar isn't very difficult.

I think the next generation of cable disc brake calipers will help with this and give much better lever feel ... but when you are the only player in town (i.e. Avid) for years, why do you need to make changes to your original design? Now that there is competition, they won't have a choice but to make them better.
 

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I thought about that but it seems it just pulls the pads closer together. Can I preload some slack out of the lever pull without actuating the pads?
Putting pre-load worked well for me. I had the same issue with my rear brake: too much lever travel. Pre-loading it allowed the brake to work but with a smaller amount of lever travel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Are you using ETRTO 559 rims? MTB 26". There seems to be quite a bit of gap between the fork and the seat stay brace from the tyre. And you already have a pretty large tyre for a road bike that is.
Yea, there is a large gap but that's typical in CX frames. It's designed to handle 32c tires with fenders iirc. It currently has 30c Vredestein Primatos on it.
 

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yea, beautiful bike, sorry that the brakes feel squishy. Its just kinda how it is right now. Until a proper cable pull for these guys is figured out, they will continue to just feel mushy.

Which is funny considering how good they feel on a mtn bike. Wierd.

Bill
 

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Linear wired housing is essential; any compression in the run makes a mess of adjustment, or ever getting proper braking.
Jaguar's Ripcord, but also most of their mid-level has similar/same construction.
In-line adjusters help (at stops or the mid-housing type) in many ways (creating preload).
The power from road BB-7s never equaled "disc-power" or feel in the run for me, so I ended up w Mtn BB-7s, but adjustment and set-up w these have to be spot-on. More recent Shimano levers pull a bit more cable making a better match.
Too bad there isn't leverage adjustment at either end, like Avid had for Mtn Levers if you wanted to adjust power and feel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Linear wired housing is essential; any compression in the run makes a mess of adjustment, or ever getting proper braking.
Jaguar's Ripcord, but also most of their mid-level has similar/same construction.
In-line adjusters help (at stops or the mid-housing type) in many ways (creating preload).
The power from road BB-7s never equaled "disc-power" or feel in the run for me, so I ended up w Mtn BB-7s, but adjustment and set-up w these have to be spot-on. More recent Shimano levers pull a bit more cable making a better match.
Too bad there isn't leverage adjustment at either end, like Avid had for Mtn Levers if you wanted to adjust power and feel.
Goog gouge-thanks! So you are using BB7 Mountain on a CX or road bike? Interesting.
 

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I thought about that but it seems it just pulls the pads closer together. Can I preload some slack out of the lever pull without actuating the pads?
only preload a little. too much and the caliper arm will bottom out and run out of travel. there should be plenty of adjustment with the pad knobs. i ran bb7 roads for 2 years on 2 different bikes (trek portland and specialized crux).
 

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Linear wired housing is essential; any compression in the run makes a mess of adjustment, or ever getting proper braking.
Jaguar's Ripcord, but also most of their mid-level has similar/same construction.
In-line adjusters help (at stops or the mid-housing type) in many ways (creating preload).
The power from road BB-7s never equaled "disc-power" or feel in the run for me, so I ended up w Mtn BB-7s, but adjustment and set-up w these have to be spot-on. More recent Shimano levers pull a bit more cable making a better match.
Too bad there isn't leverage adjustment at either end, like Avid had for Mtn Levers if you wanted to adjust power and feel.
I haven't tried it myself, but I've seen a few CX bikes set up with BB7 MTB discs and Problem Solvers V-brake pulley thing. Supposedly has a very firm lever feel - but ugly.
 
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