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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Just got the bike completed and took her out for a test ride. Can't wait til next CX racing season. Now time to put on the miles.

All steel Reynolds 853 custom color
Easton EC90x fork
CK headset
Paul brakes neo-retro front, touring rear
Salsa bell lap bars w/ Paul cross levers
Campy Chorus 10 shifters and derailleurs
Campy Record casette 13-29
FSA compact cross cranks 46-36
Candy Ti pedals
Ritchey WCS stem
Thomson Masterpiece seat post
Fizik Gobi saddle
Velocity Escape rims on Campy Neutron hubs w/ 32mm Grifo Challenge tubies

The bike weighs 19.2 lbs. Paul builds'em nice!
 

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lovely. nice job

If I was building ground upI'd love campy equipped cxers (jealous) it almost looks as if the top levers are angled to far down. is it comfortable? especially if its a steep drop and you are getting way back,make sure it doesn'tput your wrists at a weird angle. great build,my fave tires as well. just don't use em in the nasties.
 

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Ahhh Losters, I love em. I realy dig that color. Mine is due for a paint job and that color looks pretty close to what I want.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
atpjunkie said:
If I was building ground upI'd love campy equipped cxers (jealous) it almost looks as if the top levers are angled to far down. is it comfortable? especially if its a steep drop and you are getting way back,make sure it doesn'tput your wrists at a weird angle. great build,my fave tires as well. just don't use em in the nasties.

Thanks for the suggestion. I'm still trying to find the right position for the top levers as I am not quite used to them yet. My road bike is Campy Record equipped so just wanted to keep things interchangeable. The tubies are for race only, I didn't have my training wheels done yet. I'll be using Tufo tubular clinchers with 32h DT Swiss RR 1.1 rims laced 3x with DT Swiss Competition spokes to Campy Record hubs. The front brake needs fine tuning also since the fork shudders a bit, perhaps more toe-in is necessary. All in all I'm a happy camper and yes, the bike is way better than I am ;)
 

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Top cap/compression plug?

Gorgeous looking ride.

Wondering what compression plug/top cap you're using instead of the "bear trap" thing that easton supplies?
 

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more pics

I was wondering if you could snap some more pictures of that fork. How's the tire clearence? I have wanted to buy that fork for a while, but haven't been able to get a very good look at it.
 

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darik said:
I was wondering if you could snap some more pictures of that fork. How's the tire clearence? I have wanted to buy that fork for a while, but haven't been able to get a very good look at it.
There's an ok shot of mine on jeremyb's blog plusonelap.blogspot.com just scroll down, it's on my red Rock Lobster.
 

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Ai B. said:
Thanks for the suggestion. I'm still trying to find the right position for the top levers as I am not quite used to them yet. My road bike is Campy Record equipped so just wanted to keep things interchangeable. The tubies are for race only, I didn't have my training wheels done yet. I'll be using Tufo tubular clinchers with 32h DT Swiss RR 1.1 rims laced 3x with DT Swiss Competition spokes to Campy Record hubs. The front brake needs fine tuning also since the fork shudders a bit, perhaps more toe-in is necessary. All in all I'm a happy camper and yes, the bike is way better than I am ;)
To get rid of the front brake shudder you should relocate the brake cable hanger to the top of your fork, below the lower race of your headset. The shudder is not from your brake pads, it's flexing in the steerer tube. Placing the brake cable hanger down lower eliminates most of the flex. You'll probably need a new cable hanger that looks like it's upside down.I had the same problem with my canti front brake, and by lowering the hanger it fixed the problem completely.
 

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if ya go Tub Clincher for training

get the cheaper T models. Prestiges have pretty supple sidewalls and can be prone to cutting a tearing.better for race tires
 

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800lbgorilla said:
Wondering what compression plug/top cap you're using instead of the "bear trap" thing that easton supplies?
I was wondering the same. I just put my Easton fork on my steel Rock Lobster, and neither the fork instructions or the 'bear trap' instructions mention the need for an internal expander or reinforcement. I'm not using anything, just the bear trap and the Easton top cap, which is just a push-in plastic dealie. If you're out there, Wunlap, what are you using?
 

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bikenerd said:
I was wondering the same. I just put my Easton fork on my steel Rock Lobster, and neither the fork instructions or the 'bear trap' instructions mention the need for an internal expander or reinforcement. I'm not using anything, just the bear trap and the Easton top cap, which is just a push-in plastic dealie. If you're out there, Wunlap, what are you using?
I use the FSA expander plug. The "beartrap" in conjunction with the cable hanger made the topmost part of my Chris King headset go crooked and drag as I turned the bars. I think that the flattened back part of the easton steerer accentuated this problem. My fix was to hang the cable hanger from my stem faceplate bolt, and set the headset preload with the more conventional FSA expander plug. This gives rock solid adjustment and I still use the beartrap thingy with an old locking cable hanger when I pack my bikes for shipping in my bikepro double case. Since my case has a fork mount, the headset has to stay tight but the stem also has to be removed. So that thing can be pretty handy for that. Also, because of the beefy Easton steerer wall thickness and therefore small inner diameter of the steerer, the FSA and Profile plugs are the only ones that I could find that would work. Usually I've prefered the reynolds plug, and the FSA one is almost the same but just small enought to work. I hate the profile one, poor design.
 

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wunlap togo said:
I use the FSA expander plug. The "beartrap" in conjunction with the cable hanger made the topmost part of my Chris King headset go crooked and drag as I turned the bars. I think that the flattened back part of the easton steerer accentuated this problem. My fix was to hang the cable hanger from my stem faceplate bolt, and set the headset preload with the more conventional FSA expander plug. This gives rock solid adjustment and I still use the beartrap thingy with an old locking cable hanger when I pack my bikes for shipping in my bikepro double case. Since my case has a fork mount, the headset has to stay tight but the stem also has to be removed. So that thing can be pretty handy for that. Also, because of the beefy Easton steerer wall thickness and therefore small inner diameter of the steerer, the FSA and Profile plugs are the only ones that I could find that would work. Usually I've prefered the reynolds plug, and the FSA one is almost the same but just small enought to work. I hate the profile one, poor design.
Now that I look at it, the top of my King headset is crooked too. Even though I can't feel any drag when I turn the bars, I don't really like that. I have an IRD long drop cable hanger on top of the HS, then the bear trap, then the stem. I like this setup because I can set the tension, then lock down the cable hanger to hold it, and play with stem height & such without messing up the adjustment. I think I'll try my Ring-o-star that I had on the steel fork to see how it works, but I may try the stem bolt hanger trick.
 
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