[HBPUNK]

I always thought I was 6'2, I measured today at 6'1 even. My bikes have always been 60cm and I feel to stretched out at times.

I did the wrench science sizing system and it came back 59cm. The bike theyre ordering for me on Monday comes in 58 and 60, no 59 available.

I'm gearing more towards a 58, I know I wont feel as stretched out and will be more comfortable in riding position on a smaller bike, due to my lack of flexibility I dont liked being to stretched out. I heard going 1cm up or down a size is within reason and can be adjusted accordingly either way

*Here's my stats and what are other 6'1 riders on the forum bike sizes???

Recommended saddle height 77.93cm

Height ::
6.1in
Sternum notch ::
61in
Inseam length ::
34.75in
Arm length ::
24.5in
Shoulder width ::
17.5in
Flexibility ::
3
Weight ::
220 lbs
Foot size ::
11.0 USMens

Thank You

 

[SantaCruz]

remember that different mfgs have different geometries & TT lengths.
I would generally agree than 1 cm up or down can be accomodated.
What is your age and what are your goals?
if you have modest goals, do not expect to increase fexibility - go 58.
young, aggressive, wanting to improve performance & flex - go 60.

 

[HBPUNK]

Bike is Cannondale Six13
33yrs
Goals: Lose weight, over all conditioning, 10-30miles rides, occasional 50
Riding 5-6 times wk

Not concerned about increasing my flexibility, I've always been an athlete but not the most flexible person and it never hindered me from being a good athlete

 

[Spoke Wrench]

remember that different mfgs have different geometries & TT lengths.
I would generally agree than 1 cm up or down can be accomodated.
What is your age and what are your goals?
if you have modest goals, do not expect to increase fexibility - go 58.
young, aggressive, wanting to improve performance & flex - go 60.

My advice is the exact opposite. I'm kind of old and fat so I generally choose the larger frame to get the taller head tube for a more upright handlebar position. That's what works for me. I'd agree that it's important to consider the frame as a whole, top tube length, seat tube angle, everything.

 

[shokhead]

You might be on a 60, i'd rather erro a bit lg then small. What does the lbs say?

 

[indianabob]

Good Luck! The weather's great, but don't rush it!

 

[Gazoo]

Ride em and pick the feel you like best...this ain't rocket surgery!!

 

[PaulCL]

I'm just under 6'!"

I always thought I was 6'2, I measured today at 6'1 even. My bikes have always been 60cm and I feel to stretched out at times.

I did the wrench science sizing system and it came back 59cm. The bike theyre ordering for me on Monday comes in 58 and 60, no 59 available.

I'm gearing more towards a 58, I know I wont feel as stretched out and will be more comfortable in riding position on a smaller bike, due to my lack of flexibility I dont liked being to stretched out. I heard going 1cm up or down a size is within reason and can be adjusted accordingly either way

*Here's my stats and what are other 6'1 riders on the forum bike sizes???

Recommended saddle height 77.93cm

Height ::
6.1in
Sternum notch ::
61in
Inseam length ::
34.75in
Arm length ::
24.5in
Shoulder width ::
17.5in
Flexibility ::
3
Weight ::
220 lbs
Foot size ::
11.0 USMens

Thank You

And i ride a 58 on one bike and 59 on the other. I'm more comfy on the....hmmm...whichever one I'm riding. You need to get yourself to a shop and ride the bikes or ones that are measured the same. The internet can only give you so much....

 

[ari]

Easy: don't order on Monday

The bike theyre ordering for me on Monday comes in 58 and 60, no 59 available.

Why make an expensive mistake? Don't order the bike until you've ridden one in the same size and are sure of the fit. C'dale's CAAD8 bikes have the same geometry, I believe. I'm also 6'1", but I have very different measurements from you -- long legs, short torso -- so anything I'd say wouldn't do you much good. My inseam is about half an inch longer than yours, and my sternal notch is a whopping 2 inches lower.

It also depends on where you like your saddle and bars positioned. If you like your saddle far back, you can easily get way too stretched out on a bike with a long top tube, versus someone who likes to sit forward. Conversely, a short top tube may cramp you, and smaller bikes have more vertical drop to the handlebars. It's all about where you like your saddle, and how much reach and drop to the bars you want.

Also, what's your current bike? Are you happy with the fit? What would you change if you could?

Cheers,
Ari

 

[MellowCat]

58

We're close in size. I'm 6'1", size 12 shoe, 35" inseam. I rode a 60cm for 3 years. I always felt stretched out, and the handling was kind of slow on the longer wheel base. I tried several 57/58/59 bikes out. The 58 ended up the right blend of handling and fit. I do wish for a taller head tube at times. I may get a thomson mountain stem this year with a 15deg angle to fix this one issue.

Good luck!

MC

 

[Chef Tony]

I'm also 6-1 and ride a Specialized Roubaix 58cm. I've always ridden that size, but with age (now 50) I've gradually used shorter stems, going from a 110 in my youth to a 90 now. So just go with what feels good. Don't forget about crank arm length- large bikes now all come with 175cm, but I've always liked 172.5

 

[hooj]

I always thought I was 6'2, I measured today at 6'1 even. My bikes have always been 60cm and I feel to stretched out at times.

I did the wrench science sizing system and it came back 59cm. The bike theyre ordering for me on Monday comes in 58 and 60, no 59 available.

I'm gearing more towards a 58, I know I wont feel as stretched out and will be more comfortable in riding position on a smaller bike, due to my lack of flexibility I dont liked being to stretched out. I heard going 1cm up or down a size is within reason and can be adjusted accordingly either way

*Here's my stats and what are other 6'1 riders on the forum bike sizes???

Recommended saddle height 77.93cm

Height ::
6.1in
Sternum notch ::
61in
Inseam length ::
34.75in
Arm length ::
24.5in
Shoulder width ::
17.5in
Flexibility ::
3
Weight ::
220 lbs
Foot size ::
11.0 USMens

Thank You

I'd say you should test ride that 58cm bike.

I'm 6'1" too and my inseam is only slightly longer than yours and I have a 56cm frame. I used to ride a 55cm frame before, but it was little bit too short with 55,5cm top tube and I had to use 14cm stem. I'm much more flexible (10 in WS) so I can't recommend you to get as small frame as I have but you should try that 58cm frame with 11cm or 12cm stem.

 

[linus]

Wow....this many posts without anybody talking about the headtube length.

OP, you need to check both size frame's headtube length so that you can adjust your handlebar height to your comfortable handlebar height. If you endup with a smaller frame, you might need a stack of spacers that your steer tube won't allow. I've learn this from many people here and my last frame purchase. Goodluck

 

[MellowCat]

why...

can't you adjust your bar height with a stem too? Just use a mountain stem if need be. I have never figured out why the road stems are all little to no rise.

I would rather have the correct top tube over the head tube length.

Just my .02

MC

 

[HBPUNK]

Thanks!

I took a 30min spin on a 58cm and it solved my problem of feeling to stretched out. I dont like a big vertical drop and figured that would be the case riding the 58cm, but their wasnt a dramatic drop. The smaller bike gave me the mobility to to push my riding a notch

 

[linus]

Fyi

can't you adjust your bar height with a stem too? Just use a mountain stem if need be. I have never figured out why the road stems are all little to no rise.

I would rather have the correct top tube over the head tube length.

Just my .02

MC

Difference between 58 and 60 toptube length is most likely less than 1cm, but headtube length would differ by +-2cm. Use a MTB stem? So you rather ride your bike like this?

 

[MellowCat]

on the

bikes I was looking at previously the top tube really was 2cm longer between the 58 and 60's. The 58 felt like a much better fit after riding the 60 for 3 years. I would rather have the spacers or stem with rise than have a bike that felt to big. The smaller frame also handled much nicer in tight turns(which we have alot of). Some people my size ride 56/57's to get the handling even better. I tried the 57 but had toe lap problems and the headtube was borderline.

Just my .02

MC

 

[kmc]

total reach?

What was your reach according to wrenchscience?

I am also 6'1", with a 35" inseam and rode a 58 CAAD 7 with a 10cm stem...fit perfect.

I once spent a bunch of money getting fit and felt way too stretched out in the end. I have found that wrenchscience's total reach measurement is pretty close for me, so I use that as a baseline. The more time you spend on your bike, the better you can assess your fit. It took me two years of riding on the road to figure out what ultimately works for me.

Good luck!

 

[Howzitbroke]

Try both. A shorter frame will have a shorter top tube yes, but it will also have a shorter headtube. The shorter head tube can be more work to overcome to get the right reach. You need to try a 58 and a 60 with TT+Stem length being equal, if possible to get a better answer. I tend to ride larger frames with shorter stems so it is easier to ride in the drops. I also have long arms and legs for my height. 5'9.5" and some change with a 32.75" cycing inseam and wear 33-34 sleeves. I feel camped on most 54 cm frames. I like a 55.5cm+120 stem or 56.5 with a 110mm stem. so I fit most 56 frame no problem. I have ridden both shorter and longer. 55+12 to 57+13 and have found what works.

 

[danl1]

Me:

Height ::
6.1in
Sternum notch ::
forget
Inseam length ::
34.50in
Arm length ::
24.5in
Shoulder width ::
forget
Flexibility ::
4
Weight ::
175 lbs
Foot size ::
11.0 USMens

My measurements came it at 58 for the particular fit guide I was using. I ride a '90 Cannondale that's a 60, and a '05 Litespeed that's a 57. They end up with identical cockpits, despite the size difference and without any unusual components or placements (the saddle's in the middle/back of the rails, the drops are horizontal, etc.) The 'Dale has a longer wheelbase and less excess standover, but every cockpit dimension is identical with stock componentry, save 1 cm shorter than "stock" on the Litespeed stem. (100 vs 110 cm.)

Lessons: In part, it depends on the geometry of the particular bike. It also depends on your riding style and preferences. I personally prefer larger frames, because the longer wheelbase tends to make them ride a bit better and set up with less bar-to-saddle drop. Someone prefering speed at any cost would tend to choose a smaller frame, because the increased drop and shorter wheelbase would seem positives to them. I've discovered that over the miles I'm faster if I'm more comfortable, that I don't need the really tight handling that a shorter wheelbase can provide, and that I can get as aero without the excess drop.

Hope this helps.