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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have a sturdy steel frame bike without a rear shock absorber. Tires are 26in with 130mm rear fork spacing.
On the back of the bike there is a steel rack with a trunk, saddle bags, heavy u-lock, and other miscellaneous.
When everything is loaded up this places a lot of weight on the rear wheel.
Right now I am using this:

Categories - Niagara Cycle ... duty-wheel

a heavy duty steel rim, which some have already scoffed at because it is not a double walled aluminum rim.
It has held up reasonably well, except for a time I hit a divot in the road and the axle was bent and had to be replaced.

Does anyone have recommendations for a reasonably priced hub that will handle a huge amount of weight ?

I have already been advised to abandon the freewheel and go to a cassette hub. Cassette hubs I've found say 135mm.
So they won't fit 130mm ?

This is a street comfort bike but I'm wondering if a hub meant for mountain bike roughness would be strong and good to use.

I'm on a budget here, so please, no expensive esoteric components.

EDIT
Looks like the link didn't make it so here is the spec of what I have now:
Sta-Tru 26X2.125 Rear 12G Fw Steel 36H, Heavy Duty Wheel
Product Description
Taiwan cruiser steel rims are 39mm wide, w/ 36 holes, 12g CP
Cruiser wheels use C/N 12g UCP heavy duty spokes w/ 5/8" brass nipples
Threaded for 6-7 Spd FW
CP Steel, 130mm OLD 12g, 36h
Bolt on wheel
 

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130 mm is standard for a road rear wheel. You must be looking at mtb hubs; those are 135.

Shimano 105 is a good reliable tough hub. What type of rear derailleur and how many speeds? Are you rebuilding with the old rims are getting a whole new rear wheel?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
130 mm is standard for a road rear wheel. You must be looking at mtb hubs; those are 135.

Shimano 105 is a good reliable tough hub. What type of rear derailleur and how many speeds? Are you rebuilding with the old rims are getting a whole new rear wheel?
The derailleur I have is what came with the bike, it's like an OEM plastic Shimano.
A gear setup for the final wheel anywhere from 6 to 9 speed is fine
I'm open to any suggestions as long as the total cost around $85 or less.

I haven't built any wheels recently but have plenty of tools to do that,
so yes, a new hub and bare rim might be my project.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
OP here. I found this, which looks like it should be an indestructable hub for my purpose:

WheelMaster Alloy Lf Rear Hub - Fixie/Fixie, 36H, 14mm, Bolt-On, Black

weblink_http://www.niagaracycle.com/categories/wheel-master-alloy-lf-rear-hub-fixie-fixie-36h-14mm-bolt-on-black?gclid=CLnK0bOhv8wCFVKVfgod4TkLww

Not sure what the overall width is - will it fit 130mm forks ?

It looks like it has a freewheel mount on each side but I'm not sure what the fixie/fixie means. Should this take a standard freewheel ?

Does anyone know the actual website for WheelMaster to find the exact specs ?
 

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The link doesn't work but it's a double sided hub for two single fixed cogs (those things don't freewheel). It won't take a multi-gear freewheel.

Yes abandon freewheel and go with a cassette hub - 36h, 130mm spacing. That's a normal road hub.

Get something like a Shimano 105 hub. You'll be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
OP here.
Thanks for the replies.
I checked out the Shimano 105 I found it in a quick release version.
Not sure that's best since I need extra bolt space to mount my custom rear rack.
Do they have a version with good long bolts ?

As for a new rear rim I found this:

Alex DM24 Mountain/Freeride Rim

Weight 640g
Width 32.2mm
Intended Use Mountain,DH/Freeride
Hub Drilling 36spokes
Rim Depth 17.2mm
Brake Compatibility Rim Brake
Manufacturer Spec ERD 547mm
Valve Presta
ISO Diameter 559 / 26" mtn
Valve Length Schrader
Wheel Size 26"
Tire Type Clincher
Rim Center Offset 0mm
Rim Material Alloy
Rim Joint Pinned/Sleeved
Brake Track Non-Machined
Defined Color Silver
Internal Rim Width 24mm

Not too expensive. I'm wondering what the next step up in strength from this would be.
Maybe something in a wider 39mm width. I know the width doesn't necessarilly correlate
to strength but I'd feel better with a fatter rim.
 

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A wheelist
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I checked out the Shimano 105 I found it in a quick release version.
Not sure that's best since I need extra bolt space to mount my custom rear rack.
Do they have a version with good long bolts ?
Nope, 105, or any QR hub has normal QR axle and it can't be any other way. The rack needs to mount onto the frame (brazed-on lugs or stay clamps). Mounted onto any long nutted axle is the lo-tech way. Any decent bike shop can stay-mount the rack for you PDQ.

As for a new rear rim I found this:
Alex DM24 Mountain/Freeride Rim.
Not too expensive. I'm wondering what the next step up in strength from this would be.
Maybe something in a wider 39mm width. I know the width doesn't necessarilly correlate
to strength but I'd feel better with a fatter rim.
I'm outta my depth with this kind of tackle so I don't have a comment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Nope, 105, or any QR hub has normal QR axle and it can't be any other way. The rack needs to mount onto the frame (brazed-on lugs or stay clamps). Mounted onto any long nutted axle is the lo-tech way. Any decent bike shop can stay-mount the rack for you PDQ.
Still kind of confused. Looking around at all these professional hubs
some seem to have almost no extra axle while others have enough to sneak in the
rack with a washer. I'm guessing the quick release handle comes off if you
just want the bare threads with the 105 but I just don't know because they don't have precise data sheets for these components available.

As far as special rack tabs, I've actually avoided this so far to try to keep the bike
pristine. I have access to a welder so it's not that big a deal to do if it comes to that.

BTW the original axle failed (bent) between the frame so the overall weight rather than the extra rack mounting geometry seems to be the cause.
 

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Still kind of confused. Looking around at all these professional hubs
some seem to have almost no extra axle while others have enough to sneak in the
rack with a washer. I'm guessing the quick release handle comes off if you
just want the bare threads with the 105 but I just don't know because they don't have precise data sheets for these components available.
I'm not about to explain the physics that have got to happen for a QR hub to work with a frame, but trust me, a rack and a QR axle ain't gonna happen. You want a rack on your axle and can't compromise? Then get a hub with rigid axle with nuts and have at it.


As far as special rack tabs, I've actually avoided this so far to try to keep the bike
pristine. I have access to a welder so it's not that big a deal to do if it comes to that.
Pristine? Is that really the goal here or is this some kind of trolling windup? If this is a legit issue then you need seatstay rack clamps. Any bike shop will have lots and probably sell and install a couple of sets per week.
 

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