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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so I got a new chain because I wanted to be able to take it off to clean it. It's a sram 9 speed w/ the power link thing and I have a shimano drive train. That might be the answer right there but it's also about 3-4 links longer than my old one which I didn't think would make a huge difference but maybe it does. I would have made it shorter but my chain tool broke when I was trying to take the old one off... just fell right the **** apart... wtf.

Anyway, the rear derailer keeps jumping back and forth between gears unless it's in the highest/smallest two or three gears. It's semi ok when I'm not putting much of any force down but as soon as I try to accelerate or anything it freaks out.

I also took the rear cage thing (or whatever it's called... the part where the chain goes around those two tiny gears) apart to clean it. I may have put it back together wrong but I don't think so.
 

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The chain should really have the same # of links as your old chain. Another problem is that the cassette wears with the chain (most of the time). Depending on how many miles are on your drivetrain, you will need to change the cassette too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I don't think the chain or cassette were worn out, I just changed it so I could clean it more easily (probably a silly reason to get a new chain, I know, but it makes me feel better).
 

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Shut up legs!
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you need to remove that extra 3-4 links. That many extra links do make a difference. Your chain is probably sloppy and will jump all over.

Get a new chaintool and remove the extra links. Make it the same length as your old chain.
 

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Shut up legs!
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MWPDX said:
I don't think the chain or cassette were worn out, I just changed it so I could clean it more easily (probably a silly reason to get a new chain, I know, but it makes me feel better).

You could have just bought the Sram Powerlink alone to use with your old change.

Right now, you could probably just transfer that powerlink from the new chain and use it with your old chain. Keep the new one for future replacement. But you have to remove one link off your old chain so the count of links will still be the same when you put the powerlink in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
cxwrench said:
sounds like you should have someone that knows what they're doing help you out w/ this stuff. or, do some research online, like http://www.parktool.com/repair/

and while you're there, you can check out a real chain tool...;-)
Knowing what you're doing is overrated. :D :D :D
 

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There is really no reason to take a chain apart every time you want to clean. The chain will skip because it was improperly put back together.
Why not just wipe it down with degreaser and then re-lube? A simple wipe down after every use will keep it running like new.
 

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you need the same number of links. 3-4 links is a BIG difference.

you don't want to keep taking off the chain. your chain will eventually break.
 

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Both chainrings

MWPDX said:
the rear derailer keeps jumping back and forth between gears unless it's in the highest/smallest two or three gears. It's semi ok when I'm not putting much of any force down but as soon as I try to accelerate or anything it freaks out.
Does it do this on both chainrings? If it only does it on the small chainring, then the odds are it is the excess chain length. When you say 3-4 links, that suggests 3-4 inches of excess chain (you can't have half links, so you can't make a chain 1.5 inches longer). Do you know anybody who knows even a little bit about bikes? Maybe they could look at it for you. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hooben said:
There is really no reason to take a chain apart every time you want to clean. The chain will skip because it was improperly put back together.
Why not just wipe it down with degreaser and then re-lube? A simple wipe down after every use will keep it running like new.
I could never really get all the crud off. Maybe it's cause I ride in the rain a lot but my chain/drive train get really dirty. I tried cleaning it with rags/degreasers/etc but it seemed to be just moving the dirt around. I'm not gonna take it off every time I clean it, just when it gets really bad or when I want to get it really clean.
 

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Kerry Irons said:
Does it do this on both chainrings? If it only does it on the small chainring, then the odds are it is the excess chain length. :)
What Kerry said. I've run SRAM chains on all our Shimano drivelines for years, and they work perfectly.
 

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MWPDX said:
Ok so I got a new chain because I wanted to be able to take it off to clean it. It's a sram 9 speed w/ the power link thing and I have a shimano drive train. That might be the answer right there but it's also about 3-4 links longer than my old one which I didn't think would make a huge difference but maybe it does. I would have made it shorter but my chain tool broke when I was trying to take the old one off... just fell right the **** apart... wtf.

Anyway, the rear derailer keeps jumping back and forth between gears unless it's in the highest/smallest two or three gears. It's semi ok when I'm not putting much of any force down but as soon as I try to accelerate or anything it freaks out.

I also took the rear cage thing (or whatever it's called... the part where the chain goes around those two tiny gears) apart to clean it. I may have put it back together wrong but I don't think so.
Ok ,here is the solution . When you put a new chain on you need to size it down . Take the chain and wrap it around the largest cog in the back and the largest on the front. Now,Meet the two ends and then add two links to wherever the two ends meet. Remove the extra and your good to go :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ok the chain is the exact same length as the old one and it's still doing it... wtf?
It does do it no matter what gear I'm in in the front. Now it's only doing it in the middle 5 or 6 gears in the back.
 

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MWPDX said:
Ok the chain is the exact same length as the old one and it's still doing it... wtf?
It does do it no matter what gear I'm in in the front. Now it's only doing it in the middle 5 or 6 gears in the back.
I'm not sure how this may have happened but you may need to adjust your b tension . It's all the way on the back of your rear derailleur . Put your bike up on a stand . Shift to the cogs causing you the trouble. Now Pedal while you turn the b tension screw in quarter turns. See if that works .
If that doesn't work , maybe you are slightly out of adjustment overall. At this point turn your barrel adjusters in quarter turns and see if that cures the skipping.
Let me know if those two things don't work and I'll throw some more out there for you to try
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Oh man... that sounds like the kind of thing that would fix it if someone else did it but make it worse if I tried to do it. I think I might take it in to the lbs. I may have switched the pulley things when I put it back together. I couldn't tell that there was any difference though. Would that make this happen?
 

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MWPDX said:
Oh man... that sounds like the kind of thing that would fix it if someone else did it but make it worse if I tried to do it. I think I might take it in to the lbs. I may have switched the pulley things when I put it back together. I couldn't tell that there was any difference though. Would that make this happen?
Yes,most definitely it would . Take a picture of it and post it .
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
PICTURES!!! hth...
 

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ooooh its doing that because it's a tiagra derailleur.....just kidding...lol

on my campy rear der. you have to have the jockey pulleys right...one goes on top and one on bottom...don't know if you have that issue with shimano or not

some of your big cogs look like they have chipped or worn teeth but other than that it looks fine...you sure you got the right chain ( 9spd v 10 spd) ...
 

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Shut up legs!
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repartocorse40 said:
ooooh its doing that because it's a tiagra derailleur.....just kidding...lol

on my campy rear der. you have to have the jockey pulleys right...one goes on top and one on bottom...don't know if you have that issue with shimano or not

Yes it's the same for Shimano.. Once pulley has a little more lateral play than the other, which facilitates in moving the chain up and down the cogs smoother. I would think that pulley would be the upper one; while the more stable one is the lower pulley
 
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