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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

I just purchased a slightly new road bike, CAAD 10 105. The bike was a return from a customer who complained about the crank. I over heard the conversation and asked the bike salesman about the bike. The bike mechanics re-torqued all aspects of the bike and I purchased the bike for $1200. I hope to use this bike for commuting and recreational touring. My current weight is 209lbs at 5'11. Much of my time was spent at the gym lifting weights but I have changed my routine to push-ups, pull-ups and core exercises. I still perform weight exercises of dead lifts and lunges to keep my lower body strong as well. As for upgrades I not to concerned as I've ordered only the needed accessories of pedals, computer, air pump, helmet and gloves. Any tips would be appreciated as well. Thanks.

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You're also gonna need a really good lock too.

Only invest in a U-Lock or something better. A New York Fahgettaboudit U-Lock would be avisable. Don't ever leave it unlocked, anywhere!

Join a local road bike club so that you can get more into the cycling culture, and increase your cycling skills, as well.
 

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If your feet hurt, reconsider your bike shoes. I endured extremely painful feet for more than a year (continued hurting off the saddle after a long ride). Finally, just before a 1000k brevet, I spent big money on a pair of Shimano R241 which are heat moulded to your feet in the store. At first I felt ashamed to be spending money on this kind of fad, but anyway the results were excellent. I never suffer from painful feet any more all.

The other advice is join some long rides because its addictive in a healthy kind of way.
 

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Cycling induced anoesis
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I'll second the fitting.

Also, here's what I call an 'essentials' list. Add/ delete, tailoring to your needs:
Wedge saddle bag - medium (Topeak/ Specialized are two good brands)
Tire levers
Spare tube
Patch kit
Piece of old tube or 1$ bill to use as a 'boot'
Innovations Ultraflate Plus CO2 inflator
2-3 12-16g unthreaded carts (I get the 12g's by the box at Walmart)
Multitool w/ chain breaker
mini-pump (if you don't trust CO2 alone)

Not essential, but nice to have:
Road ID
Lights
Rag/ paper towels
Latex gloves
A second tube, if it'll fit. And some members have suggested individual packets of waterless soap (Gojo, or similar).
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I will definitely get the bike fitted once my pedals arrive next week. As for a lock I am definitely look at that New York U lock. I appreciate all the tips as they were all a great help.
 

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Do you know the complaint about the crank was?

I would remove the reflectors. It’s an OK looking bike. The colors are not really to my liking. I also don’t like that #10 splattered on the top tube. But that’s all personal preference and I wouldn’t even notice any of that if I were riding with someone who had that bike.

Congratulations on the new bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Do you know the complaint about the crank was?

I would remove the reflectors. It’s an OK looking bike. The colors are not really to my liking. I also don’t like that #10 splattered on the top tube. But that’s all personal preference and I wouldn’t even notice any of that if I were riding with someone who had that bike.

Congratulations on the new bike.
A new guy assembled the bike but left the crank a ill loose. A customer returned and the bike tech retorqued all the drive train bolts. I have not had any issues with the bike so far. I removed the reflectors and added some clear bike patches last night. I like the colors especially since I ride at night, the colors stand out.
 

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It's a good bike at a good price but:

You mention touring.....it's pretty much a full on race frame and handles as such.

Also, the way the seat is low and you have the hoods twisted up high might be an indiction it's too big. Perhaps you're just not familiar with the road bike position and a fit will straighten that out but generally if someone needs to move the hoods up and closer like that it's an indication the top tube is too long or the head tube too short. I'm not talking about aesthetics....but what is sometimes done to compromise for a less than optimal bike size that can negatively weight distribution thus handling.

I'm not trying to rain on the parade, I really hope the bike works out great for you, but these things did stand out to me and I figured better to know now than later (if there's even anything to what I said though, might be non-issues).
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
It's a good bike at a good price but:

You mention touring.....it's pretty much a full on race frame and handles as such.

Also, the way the seat is low and you have the hoods twisted up high might be an indiction it's too big. Perhaps you're just not familiar with the road bike position and a fit will straighten that out but generally if someone needs to move the hoods up and closer like that it's an indication the top tube is too long or the head tube too short. I'm not talking about aesthetics....but what is sometimes done to compromise for a less than optimal bike size that can negatively weight distribution thus handling.

I'm not trying to rain on the parade, I really hope the bike works out great for you, but these things did stand out to me and I figured better to know now than later (if there's even anything to what I said though, might be non-issues).

The seat was lowered like this before I purchased it so I could fit the bikemin my car. The frame size is 58 which fits my 5'11 frame well and the hoods will be adjusted once I have the bike fitted this week. The 56 frame was a bit too small for me when I test rode this bike.
 

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You're also gonna need a really good lock too.

Only invest in a U-Lock or something better. A New York Fahgettaboudit U-Lock would be avisable. Don't ever leave it unlocked, anywhere!

Join a local road bike club so that you can get more into the cycling culture, and increase your cycling skills, as well.
I would suggest two different style locks and check out some youtube videos on proper way to lock the bike.
 

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Please excuse BostonG, I don't know how he has so many post stating his opinion on how he doesn't like the way your bike looks.

Cannondales are notoriously fast, and that's a full blown race bike. Congratulations on the great find. Welcome to roadbikereview. In my circles your bike would attract a crowd. I don't think that BostonG would be welcomed in my group with the bike he rides.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Please excuse BostonG, I don't know how he has so many post stating his opinion on how he doesn't like the way your bike looks.

Cannondales are notoriously fast, and that's a full blown race bike. Congratulations on the great find. Welcome to roadbikereview. In my circles your bike would attract a crowd. I don't think that BostonG would be welcomed in my group with the bike he rides.
Thanks for the welcome. This site has a ton of good info and tips.
 

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Some good advice here. I'll throw in:

If you haven't fixed a flat in a while, practice changing the inner tube a few times in your garage or basement before you head out, and use your frame pump/CO2 or whatever you plan to take with you on the road, not your floor pump.

When I started cycling it had been years (ahem, decades) since I'd fixed a flat, and fixing one on a road bike is somewhat different from changing one on a kids bike with a couple of screw drivers as tire irons and then walking the bike to the gas station to air up.




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So 2013 CAAD 10 105 or 2012 super six 105 same price? Full carbon hands down, no? Is the CAAD aluminum that great?

Fyi waiting to test ride a 13 CAAD, looking for my first road bike, the carbon Scott (foil?) felt really good over the trek 2.1 madone but no more closeouts in my size, still waiting to test ride the trek carbon 3 series. So far the 12 super6 is in the lead right now I think. Carbon feels almost hollow, not sure if that's a good feeling or not, makes it feel faster that's for sure...

PS sorry for hijacking, been trolling seemed like it lost some steam...
 

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Carbon feels almost hollow, not sure if that's a good feeling or not, makes it feel faster that's for sure...
Back in '08 when I got my first CF bike, I had the same impression. Most apparent when the bike was mounted on the work stand and I ran it through the gears. Subsided somewhat as the drivetrain wore in.

Didn't notice it so much on the road, and I certainly wasn't any faster on it. :eek:
 
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