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Since my wife would like to have a child in the near future, my Arione has to go. I've got a prolink gel light that I am going to try first before moving onto the next saddle, and the next etc...

What is the best way to duplicate the fore-aft position that I am currently using with a new saddle? Saddle height seems easy enough, but the setback I am stumped a bit. Is there a way to do this solo?

Any suggestions on the best way to get the saddle in the right spot would be appreciated? I'm thinking that I should measure from the widest part of the saddle to the front of my bars as a reference point, since most saddles have different overall lengths etc...?

Any tips etc...?

THanks,

Zach
 

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Qstick333 said:
Since my wife would like to have a child in the near future, my Arione has to go.
Has a doctor diagnosed you with a low sperm count that can be directly attributed to pressure caused by this specific saddle? If not, your statement doesn't make much sense.
 

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Good question, I have tried to figure this one out myself. You could put the bike in a trainer and spin for a while and then take your KOPS position with the old saddle. Then mount the new saddle in roughly the same position and fine tune it with your knee position taken from the first saddle.
 

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Take a look at this article on how to document your current road position: http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=130

The same steps that are used to create a blue print for the setup, can also be used to reproduce the setup when changing a part like the seat or when moving components to an entirely new bike. One thing to keep in mind, there are several variations for measuring/setting up components and while everyone has a preferred method, make sure that the same method is used to reproduce the setup!
 

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simple...

You take a KOP measurement with the old saddle and duplicate the measurement after the new saddle is installed. KOP measurements with a plumb bob aren't real accurate, but it's about the best that you can do. If you feel stretched out or cramped after a couple of ride on the new saddle, move it a few millimeters.
 

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What I did was this:

I put a piece of tape on the top tube. I measured dead plumb down from the saddle nose to the top tube and marked the tape.

I put a piece of tape on the chain stay and measured dead plumb from another point on the saddle down to that and marked it on the tape. I can't remember off hand if I measured down from the rear of the saddle or another point on it. Whatever got me dead plumb to a spot on the chain stay I could mark.

I think I also marked one or two other points - depending how they plumbed up to a place I could mark on the frame. Other handy references would be exact center (lengthwise) of the saddle and "low point" on the saddle. Mark these points with tape on the saddle, then dirctly plumb/vertical down to some horizontal place on the frame.

Then simply compare your new saddle to the old one and measure vertically from the frame markings up to the same points on the new saddle.

May require a little tweaking.

Oh, also check - with a level - how your saddle is adjusted tilt-wise.

Again, depending on how your new saddle's dimensions and design compare to the old one, you may have to tweak even if you get some fairly accurate, transferable landmarks.
 

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Measure the existing reach of your current set up.

Reach = tail of saddle to center of handlebar clamp/stem intersection.

Set the new saddle up so the reach is the same - with one caveat:

The Arione has a 2.9cm extension on the back of it, so that needs to be taken into account when setting up the new saddle. So with your original reach, subtract 2.9 cm, and set the new saddle up with the adjusted reach measurement.
 
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