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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
new Scattante Frame/ fork very flexible, please advise

so i broke my old DeBernardi Thron Os about 2 weeks ago. thread and pics here.

http://forums.roadbikereview.com/showthread.php?t=216656

Due to budget contstaints I decied to cheap out on the frame-fork for now and go with premium 10 speed components. I re-used some stuff but many things just didn't transfer like stem/bar (threaded to thread-less), new carbon post to smooth out the Alum. frame chatter, etc.
the frame I went with was the Scattante SLR/carbon fork. Yeah I know but it was $200.
The thing that concerns me is I was expecting the new threadless Alum. 1-1/8" steerer and 31.8 stem/bar combo to be much stiffer than the old steel stem -1" steel steerer but it's not? It looks like it's flexing at the stem/fork junction. i've attached a pic of the new frame and stem. Is this endemic for Alum forks or is it just the Scat fork?
Would an all-carbon fork with the honeycomb inner supprt be stiffer? i'm 230 and put lots of power throug the bars and frame, can't handle wet noodles. thanks
 

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draganM said:
...new carbon post to smooth out the Alum. frame chatter, etc.

...I was expecting the new threadless Alum. 1-1/8" steerer and 31.8 stem/bar combo to be much stiffer than the old steel stem -1" steel steerer but it's not?
Frame chatter is a result of the geometry/build, not necessarily the material

OS "metal" parts are kind of unnecessary - a skinny steel tube can be just a stiff as an OS alum tube.

What do you mean my honeycomb inner support on a fork? Have you ridden it and experienced the flex?
 

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I realize this will sound snarky, I don't mean it too.

You did it the wrong way.

You should always go with the better frame and cheaper components if you are working within a particular budget. It is always easier to upgrade components a bit at a time. The frame is what it is.

However, I realize that the peer pressure to of showing up on a bike kitted out in only Tiagra when everybody has Ultegra or Dura Ace is more emotional stress than many people can stand It does not matter that the lower level components give you essentially the same performance and don't make you any faster. Your fashion statement bike has to match up in the components category. But a frame there are so many of those, who will know?

Live and learn
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
yes the headset is installed correctly, i've built more than 1 bike : )
wim said:
Are you saying you can see the flex in the stem clamp area when you ride the bike—or are you just assuming that you'll have some flex in that area once you get the bike built up and ride it?
I haven't ridden it yet, but standing in front of it and grabbing the bars I can flex them up/down in the left/right direction failry easilly and it looks like it's happening between the stem/frame interface. In other words it looks like the top part of the fork which is inside the stem is flexing.
bwhite_4 said:
What do you mean my honeycomb inner support on a fork? Have you ridden it and experienced the flex?
Havne't ridden it yet but on an all Carbon fork with Carbon steerer they used to provide a support that you had to Epoxy into the steerer after you cut it. i'm wondering if this is stiffer than a hollow alum. tube?

Fai Mao said:
I realize this will sound snarky, I don't mean it too.
You did it the wrong way.
However, I realize that the peer pressure to of showing up on a bike kitted out in only Tiagra when everybody has Ultegra or Dura Ace is more emotional stress than many people can stand
what a ridiculous thing to say, you don't know a dam thing about me and your assuming i'm making a fashion statement?
I used to ride 105 but with the first genration of splined BB's and crank I actually ripped the spline out of the drive side. On the previous style square titanium BB's I snapped off the drive side, luckilly from a standing start and not at speed.
I buy the better components because they are usually forged as opposed to cast metal and simply last longer and operate more precisely.
 

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Are you sure its the fork flexing and not the handlebars? Is the headset adjusted properly? Any rocking/clunking?

Take it out for a ride and report.

BTW, not all full carbon forks use an aluminum insert. Some only require an expansion plug.
 

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That amount of flex does sound dangerous. You are right to ask for advice on it. If it is the fork and not the bars I'd return it if I could.

As I said, I wasn't trying to be snarky. However, it is true that you should put your money into the frame and the wheels rather than components.

105 components are, BTW good enough to win any race on.

It may not be true of you but it is certainly true of many riders that they are far more influenced by the marketing than the actual needs they have. Ultegra and Dura Ace are no more reliable than 105 or Tiagra
 

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Too early.

draganM said:
I haven't ridden it yet, but standing in front of it and grabbing the bars I can flex them up/down in the left/right direction failry easilly and it looks like it's happening between the stem/frame interface. In other words it looks like the top part of the fork which is inside the stem is flexing.
I'd not worry about it at this point. Until the bike is completely built up (number of spacers under the stem selected, all fasteners torqued to specs, headset properly adjusted) and tested on the road, any judgement on flex is going to be in serious error—especially on where it is occurring.

For what it's worth: titanium square taper BB spindles were very easy to snap. It was a bad place to replace steel with something else in order to save weight...

/w
 

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alu steerer tube should be stiff. The steerer tube cannot flex inside the head tube independently of the head tube flexing. You are either flexing the head tube or the bars/stem above the head tube. It's possible to flex a bike in lots of areas off the bike (just push the pedal inwards and the whole bike flexes). You should wait until you test ride it to know whether this is an issue on the bike. That bike should be pretty stiff.
 

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By the way, I had that exact frame/fork a while back. At 175lbs I'm no Clydesdale but no flyweight either. It was plenty stiff - in fact too stiff for my taste.
 

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It's the flex in the fork, I'm certain. There is a much bigger difference between cheap frames and cheap forks. Look for a used Reynolds or Truetemper, or invest in an Edge(which, like a King headset, I have qualms about moving from frame to frame) and prepare to be amazed.

True Story.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
thanks to everyone for responding, there is a single 10mm spacer under the stem. I wanted some wiggle room and will probably drop it 3 to 5mm once I get a feel for the bike-fit.
of course taking it for a test ride will be the definitive conclusion. I should have it finished and ridden within a week and report back.

suspectdevice said:
It's the flex in the fork, I'm certain. There is a much bigger difference between cheap frames and cheap forks. Look for a used Reynolds or Truetemper, or invest in an Edge(which, like a King headset, I have qualms about moving from frame to frame) and prepare to be amazed.

True Story.
You know that's my suspicion too. When cutting the fork to length it seemed like a rather soft grade of alum. I work with all different alloys daily and have been for over 20 years. I can say with some certainty it wasn't a stiff 7075 grade, possibly 6000 ?
I had a Carbon Reynolds 10 years ago on an Alum. trek and I think it was a steel steerer tube on that one. I would be fine wih that if the fork is indeed a problem here.
 

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Ride it

draganM said:
Havne't ridden it yet
So all of your worries is about how you think it feels when flexing it before full assembly? I'm with Wim, get it all together and ride it. There is the likely chance that it won't affect the ride in any way. You seem to be overthinking this, anticipating something that is just conjecture.
 

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Fai Mao said:
Ultegra and Dura Ace are no more reliable than 105 or Tiagra
Neither is a name brand frame automatically a better performer.

Give me a frame that fits with any name painted on it and the best components I can buy with the balance. Upgrading is almost always a sucker deal -- buy what you don't want once and then buy what you want later? :eek:ut:
 

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draganM said:
thanks to everyone for responding, there is a single 10mm spacer under the stem. I wanted some wiggle room and will probably drop it 3 to 5mm once I get a feel for the bike-fit.
of course taking it for a test ride will be the definitive conclusion. I should have it finished and ridden within a week and report back.


You know that's my suspicion too. When cutting the fork to length it seemed like a rather soft grade of alum. I work with all different alloys daily and have been for over 20 years. I can say with some certainty it wasn't a stiff 7075 grade, possibly 6000 ?
I had a Carbon Reynolds 10 years ago on an Alum. trek and I think it was a steel steerer tube on that one. I would be fine wih that if the fork is indeed a problem here.

I have that exact same frame/fork. same color too. that fork is really stiff, maybe too stiff as another poster said. It is much stiffer than an all carbon Reynolds Ouzo pro I had. and stiffer than a Profile Design alum/carbon one ride on another bike.

Take the bike for a ride, then come back and let us know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Mersault said:
I have that exact same frame/fork. same color too. that fork is really stiff, maybe too stiff as another poster said. It is much stiffer than an all carbon Reynolds Ouzo pro I had. and stiffer than a Profile Design alum/carbon one ride on another bike.
Take the bike for a ride, then come back and let us know.
wanted to wrap this thread up and finally received my DA front Derail. last week after finding out you have to have it with the 7900 levers. (Oh well, extra 90 bucks delivered). Bike is all DA shifting with Ultegra brake-calipers, Ultegra 32 spoke back-wheel, Phil Wood 32 spoke front, and Carbon seat-post. Took the bike out Wednesday for 50 miles including a 7 mile climb , 2K foot elevation gain.up left-hand canyon, CO.

Everyone who said this frame is stiff is correct, it's what I wanted YAY : ) Does the fork flex, yes it does. For the first 30 miles and climb I thought "I'm going to replace this fork but it's ok for now" Reason being if climbing out of the saddle or diving into a switch-back on the decent you feel it flex under my 230 pds. It's not objectionable though and handling is predictable at all times. In the climb you can see the front rim flex back and forth a little as well despite having 32 spokes.

At the end of the 50 mile ride though I decided the fork is fine. After riding steel for 10 years I remembered why you want a little flex in an ALum. frame. the bumps in the road will pound you despite carbon fork/seat-post. AAMOF I was instantly reminded of my old Trek 1400 from way-back when. That buck-board came with an Alum. fork which I replaced with Carbon but an Alum. frame is what it is IMHO.

Overall I'm thrilled with the responsiveness and the lack of sluggishness on a climb I had with my big steel frame. This isn't a bike I would ever do a Century on but that's not what I was after anyway. My biggest thrill though is the new DA 7900 levers, OMG the shifting is to die for. So effortless it's almost telepathic. My old 6500 levers had become very notchy and probly needed complete dis-assembly/cleaning so this was huge to me.


My only concern is one old review here that shows a catastrophic failure of the front fork but I'll call it a fluke and it seems like the only incidence of this to date?

https://s211.photobucket.com/albums...en Performance Scattante bicycle - bad fork/?

As money allows in the future these parts might get transferred to a Titanium frame as that's one material Ive always been intrigued by.
 

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Glad to hear you are happy with the new ride.
I too believe that there are great products for a low price out there. Just got to get past all the hyped stuff and do some research.
I have the newer version of that frame wich I am building up, hopefully done with it this weekend. Can't wait to get it on the road and compare it to my caad 9. Should be a nice training/ daily driver.
Enjoy the new ride.
P.S. I highly recomend the 3T funda pro fork for when you get a new one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
T K said:
P.S. I highly recomend the 3T funda pro fork for when you get a new one.
it's an interesting piece for sure and would match my bar-stem plus remove at least one of the garish SCATTANTE billboards : )
For under $300. it's not a bad deal for a pro quality piece but what about flex at the fork-steerer junction? Would it be stiffer than the Scat 1.125 Alum steer?
I took the bike out again today and there is a very definite and I fear soon to be annoying hesitation when pushing into a sharp turn. We have a double round-about here in Brighton, CO coming into town Eastbound. When you turn the bars you feel a very obvious delay as the fork flexes at the frame junction. Once into the turn with everything pre-loaded it's fine but I would like some more confident feedback from the steering on this bike : (
Let me know how yours compares to the CAD 9.
 
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