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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just purchased a new Six13 Team1 Dura Ace. Been riding a '95 Klein Fervor MTB since new mostly on pavement and decided I wanted some speed for all that pedalling. This bike came equipped with the Hollowgram Si SRM 39/53 crank and Shimano Dura Ace 12-25 cogs....To acheive a little advantage in climbing steep hills yet retain the top speed capability my dealer said he'd replace, at no charge, with the Cannondale carbon compact Si, 36/50 crank & Shimano 12-27 cogs.

Am I heading in the right direction?........BTW this is a fantastic bike - I rode everything I could @ $5K and under and this was the absolute best for me!
 

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Going with the compact makes sense for many folks, but you don't say where you live (flats? hills?) how old you are, or what kind of riding you want to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
jtolleson said:
Going with the compact makes sense for many folks, but you don't say where you live (flats? hills?) how old you are, or what kind of riding you want to do.
More hills (some steep) than flats. Mid 50's in good shape (I think)- ride solo 4X week 10.5 mile route + run 3 miles & lift 5X week. I was fortunate to retire early.

I ride against myself but now that I'm into this new road bike thing I want to extend my distance and see how I stack up with others.......I'm competitive but realistic. Doing this to have fun and stay in shape.
 

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I see nothing wrong with going with the compact crank...however, you said you had the SRM crank, and you are going to swap it to a regular carbon si...the dealer better be willing to take something off of the price of the bike, there is a huge difference in price between the SRM and the Carbon SI...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
lancerracer said:
I see nothing wrong with going with the compact crank...however, you said you had the SRM crank, and you are going to swap it to a regular carbon si...the dealer better be willing to take something off of the price of the bike, there is a huge difference in price between the SRM and the Carbon SI...
My Six13 Team1 Dura Ace (Orig. MSRP $4599) is not the same as the Six13 Team 1 SRM (MSRP $6499 & DOES come with the Hollowgram Si SRM crank which mine doesn't have...sorry for the confusion!) . I don't think there's any price difference in the compact crank and my OEM Carbon Si 39/53. I had to look again to make sure I wasn't going to get screwed...thank you!

Am I making the right decision to get some lower gearing for the hills w/o sacrificing much top end with my proposed new set-up....& any disadvantages?
 

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If I had the SRM crank, I wouldn't let it go. A compact front and 12-27 on the back would be overkill for me, but only you know your fitness level. I live in a very hilly area, and have no problem with a 53/39 front and 12-25 rear. When I was out of shape 2 years ago, I had a real problem with some of the hills, but having the setup I did got me into shape quick.
 

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I'm in the same boat. I am 49, decent condition. Never have been able to climb worth a cr*p, but haven't spent a lot of time on hills trying to get better at either. I have been told there isn't much downside to the compact crank since it climbs better, and in the tallest gearing, goes faster than a standard 53/39 with 12-25. Not sure if that is true. But I like the sound of the Compact crank.

I would also like to ask if you are getting any sort of discount on your Six13, or is it standard for a dealer to sell at full retail? I am considering the Synapse Carbon 1 (Full Dura-Ace) and am being told I have to pay full list. Almost ready to pull the trigger. So I haven't negotiated yet.

What do you guys think? Is is common to get some sort of discount off list? If so, like 5%-10%? That would help cover sales tax. *(which is plenty on a bike that price!)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
trek5200cs said:
I'm in the same boat. I am 49, decent condition. Never have been able to climb worth a cr*p, but haven't spent a lot of time on hills trying to get better at either. I have been told there isn't much downside to the compact crank since it climbs better, and in the tallest gearing, goes faster than a standard 53/39 with 12-25. Not sure if that is true. But I like the sound of the Compact crank.

I would also like to ask if you are getting any sort of discount on your Six13, or is it standard for a dealer to sell at full retail? I am considering the Synapse Carbon 1 (Full Dura-Ace) and am being told I have to pay full list. Almost ready to pull the trigger. So I haven't negotiated yet.

What do you guys think? Is is common to get some sort of discount off list? If so, like 5%-10%? That would help cover sales tax. *(which is plenty on a bike that price!)
PM sent
 

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Compact range

Take a peak at the FSA website and they have a good little reference to give you the 411 on compact vs std.

I rode a 12-27 cassette last summer with a compact 34-50 and felt like I had tonnes of options on the slopes and was only slightly undergeared at the top end. Subbing out the 12-27 for a 11-23 or 12-25 ( & getting a loose 11 cog) is more ideal as you likely won't need the 34-27 combination unless you are in the mountains and you don't want to over exert yourself. the 50-11 is actually a taller gear than the 53-12 std.

http://www.fullspeedahead.com/downloads/compact.pdf



grampy bone said:
If I had the SRM crank, I wouldn't let it go. A compact front and 12-27 on the back would be overkill for me, but only you know your fitness level. I live in a very hilly area, and have no problem with a 53/39 front and 12-25 rear. When I was out of shape 2 years ago, I had a real problem with some of the hills, but having the setup I did got me into shape quick.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
jhbeeton said:
Take a peak at the FSA website and they have a good little reference to give you the 411 on compact vs std.

I rode a 12-27 cassette last summer with a compact 34-50 and felt like I had tonnes of options on the slopes and was only slightly undergeared at the top end. Subbing out the 12-27 for a 11-23 or 12-25 ( & getting a loose 11 cog) is more ideal as you likely won't need the 34-27 combination unless you are in the mountains and you don't want to over exert yourself. the 50-11 is actually a taller gear than the 53-12 std.

http://www.fullspeedahead.com/downloads/compact.pdf
Thanks for the input jhbeeton! I'm going to do some math + discuss this with my dealer
who's going to make the changes next week.
 

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50/36 probably isn't too bad. I'd stay away from 50/34 though unless you are really overweight and need that kind of low end. I tried 50/34 and couldn't stand it. I went back to 53/39.

The nice thing about starting with the 27 cassette is that if it ends up being too much low end, you can go down to a 25, 23, or 21 without messing with the cranks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Einstruzende said:
50/36 probably isn't too bad. I'd stay away from 50/34 though unless you are really overweight and need that kind of low end. I tried 50/34 and couldn't stand it. I went back to 53/39.

The nice thing about starting with the 27 cassette is that if it ends up being too much low end, you can go down to a 25, 23, or 21 without messing with the cranks.
Not overweight but lots of steep hills and I'm used to my Klein's 44/32/22 & 11-28 for climbing. I'm able to make all of them with the Six13's existing 53/39 & 12-25 but it's tough...and not any fun! The Cannondale has about a 7 lb edge over my MTB so that helps but not quite enough.
 
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