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Nice build!! I'm upgrading the drivetrain on my 2015 Solace 30 to Ultegra 6800. Any hints on routing new cables through the frame?


So the bike is built and I put about 60 miles on it so far. The build is as follows.

Scott Solace 10 frameset w/standard Ritchey Pro headset
Wheels Mfg BB w/angular contact bearings (wasn't quite ready to drop the coin on ceramic)
Full Sram Red 2012 group (Shifters, Front and Rear Mech, 53/39 Crankset)
Front brake Sram Force
Rear Brake Ultegra 6810
American Classic Victory 30 tubeless wheels w/ Conti GP4000sII tires
3T ARX II Stem
3T Ergonova Team Bars
Specialized Pave Seatpost (to be replaced later by 3T)
Fizik Antares VS Braided Carbon Saddle
Speedplay X2 peddels

Current Weight 15.4 lbs, I think the weight you gain with Dura Ace is offset by the Carbon Wheelset. So far the only thing I don't like is the Dura Ace 9000 cable set I used, I thought I would try it as everyone seem to raving about it but I am finding it a bit spongy and lacking feel especially on the brakes, I noticed it right away, just feels like the cable has too much stretch in it.
 

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A few, if you haven't pulled the old cables out yet, don't. The easiest thing is to attach a string or dental floss to the old cable before you pull it out so that you leave yourself a guid string to pull the new cable with. This can be tricky with the front derailleur due to the very small guid tubing installed in the bottom cable guide. You are supposed to be able remove the cable guide on the bottom of the bottom bracket which gives you a much bigger opening to deal with then feed the cables through the guid and reinstall. What I did was run the cables before in installed the bottom bracket so I could easily see the cables. There are a lot of different ways from string and a vacuum to magnets. My biggest tip, be patient.
 

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Thanks for the tips. Did you have any issues routing the rear brake cable? Seems like there is the possibility of three cables getting tangled.



A few, if you haven't pulled the old cables out yet, don't. The easiest thing is to attach a string or dental floss to the old cable before you pull it out so that you leave yourself a guid string to pull the new cable with. This can be tricky with the front derailleur due to the very small guid tubing installed in the bottom cable guide. You are supposed to be able remove the cable guide on the bottom of the bottom bracket which gives you a much bigger opening to deal with then feed the cables through the guid and reinstall. What I did was run the cables before in installed the bottom bracket so I could easily see the cables. There are a lot of different ways from string and a vacuum to magnets. My biggest tip, be patient.
 

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I didn't have any issues, I can see what you mean about it getting tangled. I did run the derailleur cables first and set up the derailleurs so those cables where tensioned before I ran the brake.
 

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That's super sharp, Chucky! Nicely done.

Is the contrasting color red, orange, or somewhere in between? I've never seen one in the flesh.
 

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I took a chance with 50mm clinchers from Baixaing on Amazon for $400 shipped. They look great and ride very well so far; stiff, true, light and have a rounded rim shape that helps in crosswinds. I bought them to experiment with 50's without dropping $2000 - $3000; was planning on upgrading to Zipp 404's at some point but so far these are pretty damn good. I have Reynolds Assaults on my other bike which are 46mm deep; they are great wheels, a little lighter and have internal nipples which can be a pain.

Nice, I like the black and red, what wheels are you running on that?
 

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Figured I would wake this thread up, since I posted last the bike has seen a few changes, first is survived a crash when I got run off the road by a van. As for changes, it's been re-cabled with Jagwire Elite Link cabling, and it's so much better than the Dura Ace 9000 cables I had before, also I moved the inline cable release to under the bottom bracket with no issues and the front end looks much cleaner. Also just added a set of Reynolds Strikes.

 

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A few, if you haven't pulled the old cables out yet, don't. The easiest thing is to attach a string or dental floss to the old cable before you pull it out so that you leave yourself a guid string to pull the new cable with. This can be tricky with the front derailleur due to the very small guid tubing installed in the bottom cable guide. You are supposed to be able remove the cable guide on the bottom of the bottom bracket which gives you a much bigger opening to deal with then feed the cables through the guid and reinstall. What I did was run the cables before in installed the bottom bracket so I could easily see the cables. There are a lot of different ways from string and a vacuum to magnets. My biggest tip, be patient.
Do you remember where the other end of the guide tube for the front derailleur? Looking at the two openings of the bottom cable guide, I see the bare rear derailleur cable and the tube, so the tube must end somewhere btw the bottom cable guide and the headtube cable entry.

and is the tube replaceable? Is it fixed to the bottom cable guide?
 
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