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I just put an 11 speed xt cassette on my road bike with a 5800 105 medium cage derailleur and a road link.

View attachment 318981
I'm not going to add a 'hack' like that to a Shimano derailleur. It will change the clearance between the upper pulley and certain cogs and that will have an impact on shifting performance. It might be good enough for you, but I won't do that. It's really no different than reversing or installing an extra long b-tension screw. It takes the derailleur out of it's designed parameters and will not shift as well. Not to mention it's out of the chain wrap capacity range of the derailleur as well.
 
42 T on a road bike??? Are you planning on pulling tree stumps???

Seriously, just go BUY another bike. You obviously don't have a clue what you are doing, and all you will end up with is a very expensive compilation of parts thrown together on a frame that don't really work well, and in the end it will cost you MORE than just buying a complete bike.
 
Having built a bike from the frame up myself, I can't say it's necessarily easy. Like the OP, I did it for the experience, and to save a few bucks...but, as a nonprofessional bike wrench, it took me me from December to August to acquire all the parts, then from August to September to actually get the thing assembled. Granted, I was looking strictly at the bottom dollar, and spent a TON of time trawling bike parts sites...and, I relied heavily on the LBS's to do more of the specialized work (fitting/cockpit, headset installation). All in all, I built up an aluminum framed bike with a complete 105 groupset for less than the price that the LBS quoted me for a 105 groupset alone.

The benefits were, as a college student, I could buy it one piece at a time. I learned a TON about how bikes are put together...I'm now the defacto bike mechanic for friends and family.

The biggest drawbacks were time and uncertainty. I can't say that I'd recommend building a bike from the frame up unless you're 100% dead set on doing things the hard way. What I learned is valuable, that's for sure, but in hindsight, I'd rather buy a lower-end bike up front and upgrade as things wear out or break. There's not a huge difference between my bike and my wife's CAAD8...hers was set up professionally and came with warranties and free maintenance from a local business. Mine was set up by a dude equipped with the internet, and only went to an LBS for a few rudimentary services, with no warranty implied.
 
42 T on a road bike??? Are you planning on pulling tree stumps???

Seriously, just go BUY another bike. You obviously don't have a clue what you are doing, and all you will end up with is a very expensive compilation of parts thrown together on a frame that don't really work well, and in the end it will cost you MORE than just buying a complete bike.
it's a 40 Einstein.
 
I'm not going to add a 'hack' like that to a Shimano derailleur. It will change the clearance between the upper pulley and certain cogs and that will have an impact on shifting performance. It might be good enough for you, but I won't do that. It's really no different than reversing or installing an extra long b-tension screw. It takes the derailleur out of it's designed parameters and will not shift as well. Not to mention it's out of the chain wrap capacity range of the derailleur as well.
this is true.
 
Sounds like you accomplished your mission of keeping costs under control. I can't evaluate the gear choices because I don't know your riding ability or the hills you speak of. A wheel choice I'd go with that may be in your price range are Shimano RS81's, but they are close to $500 at Nashbar.
 
I'm not familiar with how easy that actually is to pedal and I could definitely be going overkill with it. You think I should just stick to 11/32? Other than weight and maybe not as smooth shifting, is there any other reason not to go with 11/42?
32 would be overkill unless you live in Pittsburg, PA. 42 is nuts. You going to be riding off road?

Don't get a compact. You'll like the 52. 36 is fine for climbing.
 
32 would be overkill unless you live in Pittsburg, PA. 42 is nuts. You going to be riding off road?

Don't get a compact. You'll like the 52. 36 is fine for climbing.
Agree 42 makes more sense for serious off road altitudes, not asphalt. At least for the majority of riders. I know one rider who is getting up there in age and she went that route, so for some it makes sense...
 
Looks like it'd just be 9% harder to pedal. That's also the main reason I went with a wider range cassette originally so that I could still have the easiest gears at their easiest if I needed them while also decreasing the necessary RPM while in max gear.
Standard gearing, 12-28 and 52/36 will get you up any hill on that light frame, unless you weigh over 200#. 36-28 is a piece of cake. In a year you won't be needing it much.

The 52 will be slightly easier to crank than a 50, IMO. I didn't like the 50 I used for a season once. Found the small gears harder to turn, front and rear, at high speeds. Francisco Moser set the hour speed record in 55-17. He found the larger hoops were easier to turn than the smaller cogs Eddy used, 52-14. I found 52-17 to be easier to stay on top of than 50-16, about the same gear inches.

Go for it. The LBS can face the bb shell and head tube, if that's necessary, and install the headset and bb. The rest you could do yourself with a pedal wrench, spoke wrench, cone wrenches, and three or four allen wrenches. Get a stand, like the PS-11. When something goes amiss, you'll be able to find what it is and fix it yourself. I wouldn't depend on a bike shop for 99% of maintenance. You'll have the confidence to do it yourself.
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
Standard gearing, 12-28 and 52/36 will get you up any hill on that light frame, unless you weigh over 200#. 36-28 is a piece of cake. In a year you won't be needing it much.

The 52 will be slightly easier to crank than a 50, IMO. I didn't like the 50 I used for a season once. Found the small gears harder to turn, front and rear, at high speeds. Francisco Moser set the hour speed record in 55-17. He found the larger hoops were easier to turn than the smaller cogs Eddy used, 52-14. I found 52-17 to be easier to stay on top of than 50-16, about the same gear inches.

Go for it. The LBS can face the bb shell and head tube, if that's necessary, and install the headset and bb. The rest you could do yourself with a pedal wrench, spoke wrench, cone wrenches, and three or four allen wrenches. Get a stand, like the PS-11. When something goes amiss, you'll be able to find what it is and fix it yourself. I wouldn't depend on a bike shop for 99% of maintenance. You'll have the confidence to do it yourself.
Well, even more reason to get a 52 then.

And from what I saw online, installing the head tube actually seems simple enough. I guess it depends on what headset the fork comes with, but I'm sure I can manage it. I only plan on using my LBS if it costs more to do it myself (i.e. buying the necessary tools) like cutting a carbon fiber seat tube or if I just can't figure out how to do it. You mentioned a good point too in that when something goes wrong with any bike in the future, I'll be able to fix it myself 99% of the time instead of having to rely on my LBS or anyone else.

Right now I really only have wrenches and allen bits. Is there anything else you'd recommend I buy and keep for the future that I won't only need for initial installation? I mean this more in the tools department as I already have things like frame lube, chain lube, WD-40 (chain degreaser), and a chain cleaning kit.

I do really want a bike repair stand, but they're pretty expensive. Do you know of any decent stands around $30 or less? I need a torque wrench too, but I don't think there's any avoiding spending $40 on that unless I find a used one.
 
Well, even more reason to get a 52 then.

And from what I saw online, installing the head tube actually seems simple enough. I guess it depends on what headset the fork comes with, but I'm sure I can manage it. I only plan on using my LBS if it costs more to do it myself (i.e. buying the necessary tools) like cutting a carbon fiber seat tube or if I just can't figure out how to do it. You mentioned a good point too in that when something goes wrong with any bike in the future, I'll be able to fix it myself 99% of the time instead of having to rely on my LBS or anyone else.

Right now I really only have wrenches and allen bits. Is there anything else you'd recommend I buy and keep for the future that I won't only need for initial installation? I mean this more in the tools department as I already have things like frame lube, chain lube, WD-40 (chain degreaser), and a chain cleaning kit.

I do really want a bike repair stand, but they're pretty expensive. Do you know of any decent stands around $30 or less? I need a torque wrench too, but I don't think there's any avoiding spending $40 on that unless I find a used one.
Well lots of guys make a funky bike stand out of 2 x 4s and screw it to a workbench. I strung my bikes from the ceiling for a few years before springing for a stand. The stand is a lifetime purchase. You'll never have to replace it.

Cheap stands are better than nothing, but they likely don't hold the bike steady, don't allow rotating the stand clamp to get the bike up where you can work on it standing up. The clamps deteriorate and scratch the frame.

Riders install wheels with the frame upside down, but that about all. Can't do much else maintaining a bike upside down. Gotta have it off the ground to spin the crank and adjust the drivetrain, adjust brake pads, etc.

You can install pedals with a 15 mm cone wrench. But. you'll need a pedal wrench to get the pedals off later, or snug them down if they loosen up.

Headset races are press fit into the head tube, top and bottom. That's really tricky to do without a headset press, to get the races in there evenly all the way around. If the races aren't exactly parallel, the bike will steer in one direction when riding. The tool is probably well over $100, and you'll use it once or twice in the lifetime of the bike.

BB shells should be "faced" so the surfaces are parallel on each side of the bb shell, the bb fits snugly, and won't work loose pedaling. The facing tools are also quite expensive and you'll use them once in the initial assembly. Most custom builders install bb and headset and mount the fork, so you don't have to deal with it.

You probably have a chain breaker tool, right?

Assume you determined what size fits? Confirming size via some of the fit programs online, such as Colorado Cyclist or Wrench Science, might be a cautionary step so you don't end up with a bike that will never quite fit right.

Carbon bikes are more sensitive to being over torqued than steel or aluminum, but the torques required aren't all that high. I've been doing it by feel for years and never had a bolt come loose, except on a fender once, and a seat post bolt. The saddle kept slipping down very slowly over time, so I grabbed the automotive torque wrench and torqued the bolt to 10 foot pounds, That did it. But go ahead and buy one if you want the reassurance. Riders say carbon crushes more easily than aluminum or steel, so you have to be careful. With steel and aluminum, just turn the bolt until it stops. That's it.
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
Well lots of guys make a funky bike stand out of 2 x 4s and screw it to a workbench. I strung my bikes from the ceiling for a few years before springing for a stand. The stand is a lifetime purchase. You'll never have to replace it.

Cheap stands are better than nothing, but they likely don't hold the bike steady, don't allow rotating the stand clamp to get the bike up where you can work on it standing up. The clamps deteriorate and scratch the frame.

Riders install wheels with the frame upside down, but that about all. Can't do much else maintaining a bike upside down. Gotta have it off the ground to spin the crank and adjust the drivetrain, adjust brake pads, etc.

You can install pedals with a 15 mm cone wrench. But. you'll need a pedal wrench to get the pedals off later, or snug them down if they loosen up.

Headset races are press fit into the head tube, top and bottom. That's really tricky to do without a headset press, to get the races in there evenly all the way around. If the races aren't exactly parallel, the bike will steer in one direction when riding. The tool is probably well over $100, and you'll use it once or twice in the lifetime of the bike.

BB shells should be "faced" so the surfaces are parallel on each side of the bb shell, the bb fits snugly, and won't work loose pedaling. The facing tools are also quite expensive and you'll use them once in the initial assembly. Most custom builders install bb and headset and mount the fork, so you don't have to deal with it.

You probably have a chain breaker tool, right?

Assume you determined what size fits? Confirming size via some of the fit programs online, such as Colorado Cyclist or Wrench Science, might be a cautionary step so you don't end up with a bike that will never quite fit right.

Carbon bikes are more sensitive to being over torqued than steel or aluminum, but the torques required aren't all that high. I've been doing it by feel for years and never had a bolt come loose, except on a fender once, and a seat post bolt. The saddle kept slipping down very slowly over time, so I grabbed the automotive torque wrench and torqued the bolt to 10 foot pounds, That did it. But go ahead and buy one if you want the reassurance. Riders say carbon crushes more easily than aluminum or steel, so you have to be careful. With steel and aluminum, just turn the bolt until it stops. That's it.
Do framesets that include a fork usually have the fork already installed before it ships? Or at least have the press-fit parts installed?
 
You forgot the basics. Gear and brakes cables & casings, rim tape, set of headtube spacers (you don't want to make a first cut, a final cut).
I verify the BB specs with the frame builder. They may put one in if you pay for it. Best route IMO

But beyond your parts list, my honest advice would be to buy a fully assembled bicycle. You are just starting out, its time to have fun. Not days of frustration while you try to build your own bike cause you don't RIDE if your bike if it is waiting for a part or you can't get an adjustment right or a myriad of 1001 other Murphy's got yeah's. Build your next bike, if you still feel the urge. Just a another legitimate reason for N+1.
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
You forgot the basics. Gear and brakes cables & casings, rim tape, set of headtube spacers (you don't want to make a first cut, a final cut).
I verify the BB specs with the frame builder. They may put one in if you pay for it. Best route IMO

But beyond your parts list, my honest advice would be to buy a fully assembled bicycle. You are just starting out, its time to have fun. Not days of frustration while you try to build your own bike cause you don't RIDE if your bike if it is waiting for a part or you can't get an adjustment right or a myriad of 1001 other Murphy's got yeah's. Build your next bike, if you still feel the urge. Just a another legitimate reason for N+1.
The shifters come with shift and brake cables, but I was going to order cable housing if it doesn't come with it. I don't know what rim tape is. As for the headtube spacers, I'm going to see what comes with the frameset. If it doesn't have spacers, they're super cheap to buy.

I already have a cheap Merax Finiss road bike so I'd have something to ride while building the new bike. I understand it'll take at least a full month to build the bike from the day of ordering the parts. In all reality, probably longer. I'm fine with using my Merax Finiss until then because there aren't any problems with it, I'm just wanting something more.

I know I can get a very good Shimano 105 road bike for under $1k (possibly even from my LBS) and I'm probably spending at least $200 more to build my own bike, but as mentioned in some of my other posts I want to build it myself mostly for the experience of it and being able to easily make repairs myself later instead of having to go to my LBS. I think it'd also feel a lot better to ride a bike I put a lot of time and effort into build from scratch than it'd feel riding a bike someone else built.
 
Do framesets that include a fork usually have the fork already installed before it ships? Or at least have the press-fit parts installed?
I'm not sure. Others could help you with that. I would think that would be an option if you requested it. Builder might install the headset, then take the fork back out of the head tube for shipping. Then you'd stick it back in the head tube, slap the stem on, adjust so the thing steers without binding or clicking, and its done. Or sure, they'd ship it with the fork already installed.

A competent mech at the LBS could install the bb, headset and fork for a nominal fee. $15-30? It takes about 15 minutes.
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
I'm not sure. Others could help you with that. I would think that would be an option if you requested it. Builder might install the headset, then take the fork back out of the head tube for shipping. Then you'd stick it back in the head tube, slap the stem on, adjust so the thing steers without binding or clicking, and its done. Or sure, they'd ship it with the fork already installed.

A competent mech at the LBS could install the bb, headset and fork for a nominal fee. $15-30? It takes about 15 minutes.
Yeah, I honestly might just get the bike shop to do those things if the frame seller won't/can't. After a couple quotes I got from them before, they'd probably charge somewhere within the price range you mentioned. Even if it's $30, that really isn't much in the grand scheme of the bike's cost.

Do you think the BB is actually worth upgrading from what would come with a low-end carbon fiber frame or am I wasting $50+LBS install costs?
 
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