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Cycling induced anoesis
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08Madone5.2 said:
I agree. Well written, covered most of the bases and showed some objectivity. I like RBA in general, but the current issue (the four bike shootout article, I think it was called) reads like someone at Bicycling authored it. :mad: They gave an overall favorable review to one bike that (paraphrasing) 'tended to stray to the right when riding no hands'. :confused:
 

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What is the weight of the 5.2 - 5.9? Does anyone with the 5.2 have it setup with very few spacers? It seems that they're always setup with the bars/seat level. I run 6-7cm of drop, and wonder if it effects the positioning negatively.
I'm hot for a new madone again. Probably better to have the plush ride vs the supersix I've been close to pulling trigger on. Thanx in advance for your input
 

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jhamlin38 said:
What is the weight of the 5.2 - 5.9? Does anyone with the 5.2 have it setup with very few spacers? It seems that they're always setup with the bars/seat level. I run 6-7cm of drop, and wonder if it effects the positioning negatively.
I'm hot for a new madone again. Probably better to have the plush ride vs the supersix I've been close to pulling trigger on. Thanx in advance for your input
j, not understanding your questions? Could you be a bit more specific. There is no 5.9 in the new Madone line. Did you mean 6.9?

What do you mean by drop affecting positioning negatively? You set up based on what fits you. I ride with ~115mm (11.5cm) of drop from saddle to CL bars. But that is what works for me. Others have more or less depending on fit and preference.

The new Madones are available in Pro and Performance fits. The difference is that the Perfomance fit has a 30mm taller head tube, with effectively gives about a 29.5mm more stack height, and allows for a more upright position without the use of tons of spacers. (almost identical geometries, just eliminating the unsightly spacers)

HTH
zac
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I could be wrong here, but every Performance Fir and every Pro Fit I've seen has the same spacers on the steering tube. The difference as Zac pointed out is in the HEAD TUBE itself. The Performance Fit's HT is 30mm taller than the Pro Fit. Easiest way to discern the difference is to see them side by side, then it becomes very evident.
 

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i meant the dura-ace version with bonti crankset/bb30 and al wheels. I think its 6.5. Sorry 'bout that. I tested one with the taller ht, and it was pretty tall. I'm wondering If I can get the right bar drop for myself, which is about 7cm. I ride a 58 on the performance geo.
Does trek use longer chainstays to offset the taller HT? I prefer shorter chainstays, and have 405 on my fondi, which keeps things nice and snappy.
Is the 6.5 with the black or red CF?
 

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Wow, I need a translator, but if I am understanding correctly:

1) Yes, that would be the 6.5 Performance fit.

2) IIRC the wheelbasesof the two Pro/Performance are identical, so same chainstay length.

3) OCLV Red carbon in the 6 series: 6.5 & 6.9; OCLV Black carbon in the 5 series: 5.2 & 5.5. And it is the opinion of those who have ridden both that the frames were intended by Trek to "ride" the same, with the only significant difference being a slight weight "penalty" for the Black carbon.

HTH
zac
 

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zac said:
What do you mean by drop affecting positioning negatively? You set up based on what fits you. I ride with ~115mm (11.5cm) of drop from saddle to CL bars. But that is what works for me. Others have more or less depending on fit and preference.


HTH
zac
How do you measure the drop in a accurate way? With a flipped stem, pro fit and high saddle bar I would like to know how much drop I have.
 

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Cycling induced anoesis
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jsedlak said:
How do you measure the drop in a accurate way? With a flipped stem, pro fit and high saddle bar I would like to know how much drop I have.
You can do it a couple of different ways. Make sure the bike is level and measure from ground to top of saddle and note the measurement. Next, measure from ground to center of top of bars. The first measurement minus the second gives you your drop.

If your saddle is level, another method is to set a straight edge (I use a rigid yardstick) on top of the saddle so that it extends to the bar stem. Measure the distance from center top of bars to the straight edge. That's your drop.
 

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John, I keep 3 basic measurements in my toolbox:
1) saddle height: center BB spindle to top of saddle, measured along the seat tube.
2) modified reach*: nose of saddle to CL (center line) of handlebars @ stem.
3) drop: top of saddle to CL handlebars @ stem (use a level or an imaginary line parallel to the ground extending forward from top of saddle. )

* note this is not true reach, just what I use for a given (previously fitted) frame.

I actually mark my seatposts/seatmasts and saddles' rails to the proper locations, so if after a disassembly, I can get right back to that dialled in position.
 
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