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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So when you have a rim that uses offset spoke technology, which spokes are supposed to be more vertical, drive side or non drive side? I'm assuming that its the drive side spokes that should be closer to vertical, but have a used rim that's laced the other way around. The center of the rim is shifted probably 10mm from the centerline of the frame, and I'm guessing that its because somebody laced the wheel backwards.

Can I get confirmation of this?
 

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OCR technology

dnlwthrn said:
So when you have a rim that uses offset spoke technology, which spokes are supposed to be more vertical, drive side or non drive side? I'm assuming that its the drive side spokes that should be closer to vertical, but have a used rim that's laced the other way around. The center of the rim is shifted probably 10mm from the centerline of the frame, and I'm guessing that its because somebody laced the wheel backwards.

Can I get confirmation of this?
Assuming you are talking about an off center rim, and not just a rim where the spoke holes are alternately offset to either side, then the "offset center" of the rim should be nearest the non-drive side of the bike. Even with an off center rim, the drive side spokes will still have a lower bracing angle ("more vertical" in your terminology) than the non-drive side spokes. They will have a higher bracing angle than with a conventional rim, and this is the reason to use off center rims.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
That answers my question. I just wanted to know what to expect if I took it into a shop for trueing. I guess the spoke tensions probably aren't correct, causing the wheel to be offset so far. The rim is almost touching the non drive side stays at this point... I double checked to make sure it was seated in the dropouts correctly and everything, and its just "off."
 

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Now I'm confused

dnlwthrn said:
That answers my question. I just wanted to know what to expect if I took it into a shop for trueing. I guess the spoke tensions probably aren't correct, causing the wheel to be offset so far. The rim is almost touching the non drive side stays at this point... I double checked to make sure it was seated in the dropouts correctly and everything, and its just "off."
You started off asking about off center rims, which means that the rim is not symmetric from side to side. Now it sounds like you are talking about a wheel that is improperly dished. I'm confused. At any rate, the way to check for proper dish is to flip the wheel in the frame (put the cogs on the opposite side from the chain). If the rim moves from side to side when you flip the wheel, then it is improperly dished. If the rim ends up in the same place (relative to the frame) then you have some other problem, such as a mis-aligned frame.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Its both... The rim profile is off-center (its a Ritchey wheel), looks like "I/" not "V" At the same time, the rim does not appear to be centered on the hub (put the wheel in a frame, it nearly rubs the non drive side stays).

I haven't tried flipping the wheel in the frame however. I'll do that before anything else.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So I googled the wheel and found that I'm not the only person to experience this. It appears that Ritchey's QA isn't (or wasn't?) the best, and their lower-end wheels didn't always leave the factory in the best condition...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Reviving an OLD thread...

I threw the wheel in my buddy's truing stand the other night. The wheel started out with a 1/4" offset to the non-drive side. As I went to re-true the wheel (it had a bit of a wobble and jump in one place), I found that the spoke tension was really messed up. By readjusting the tension, the wheel centered itself.

One of the reasons I found for the Offset Spoke Bed is to "equalize" the spoke tension between drive side and non-drive side. After adjusting the tension to be "close" on each side, things looked pretty good. I had to do a little tweaking to get it true after that, but not much.

Wheels are on the project bike, and as soon as I get a stem I'll get cables and wraps on the bars. I'll hopefully post a pic or two of the completed bike when I get it finished (should be done this weekend).
 

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dnlwthrn said:
One of the reasons I found for the Offset Spoke Bed is to "equalize" the spoke tension between drive side and non-drive side. After adjusting the tension to be "close" on each side, things looked pretty good. I had to do a little tweaking to get it true after that, but not much.
That's kind of interesting. I'm of the understanding that on a rear wheel with a dish, the sides of the wheel will never have equal (side to side ) tension. I mean all the spokes on the NDS should be pretty much equal with each other, and the same for the DS but equal tension between a NDS and DS spoke? No way. I guess the bottom line is that the wheel is straight and true and nothings too tight though. Spokes have a fairly good tolerance of tension range I understand. good luck.
Note: I haven't built a lot of wheels but I have stayed in a Holiday Inn....
 

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With the offset center on the OCR rims you get poke tension that is much closer between the NDS and the DS. Yes you want the tension on the DS to be even to every other DS spoke when the wheel is true. And the same applies to the NDS. Even tension does not mean a true wheel, but a true wheel with even tension per side and sufficient tension will be very durable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So here's a pic of the bike... First ride was a bit chilly, but before the snow started flying. I have a feeling I'm going to be swapping the rear tire for a trainer tire soon, and it won't see anything but trainer miles for a while.

 
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