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Crash Test Dummy
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have a 1996 KHS with internal cable routing for the rear brake. I have had the bike about 8 months and decided to change out the cables and shifters. Aside from all the bolts being seized up and not being able to remove the stem yet, the internally routed cable housing to the rear break has corroded itself in half upon removal. It is stuck to the hole. Any one have a suggestion of how to remove it other than a power drill?

Also how do I get that stem removed? It is threaded and the bolt is finally loose however the quill at the bottom I guess is seized to the steerer.
 

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For the stem, if the fork crown is open at the bottom, turn it over and spray penetrating oil. As with the other part, give it some time to work. Then turn it over, loosen the bolt so there's a few mm clearance between the bolt head and the stem, and give it a good whack with a heavy hammer. That will usually break the expander wedge loose from the steerer tube and the stem.
 

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すし + Sweet Potato Kugel
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Crash Test Dummy
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well, the LBS gave it a lot of effort but 2 days at it and can't get the stem to break loose. He think that the tensioning bolt on the bottom of the stem is seized to the steerer tube. Guess I will have to leave it set up the way it is unless any one else has an idea.
 

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Fixed a few bikes with just the same issue. Thought they were frozen for life. The Kroil came through every time. I was amazed. Let the Kroil penetrate. A slight shock load on the stem with an appropriate hammer can also help get it moving a tiny bit to where the kroil penetrates. Use a block of wood or suitable substitute to avaid marring the stem when applying the hammer blow. Depending on what you have, you can even turn the bike upside down and apply the Kroil from the underside of the fork up inside the steerer. Just another path for it to get in there.
 

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Kroil works better as a penetrant than than PB blaster for breaking things loose in my humble experience.
Galvanic corrosion could be part of the issue (aluminum & steel in this case). So, have you tried soaking with ammonia? Mildly heating the headtube to get it to expand a bit & let the oil work it's way in there? Not heating so much as to blister paint, mind you (eg hair dryer).

Check out Sheldon Brown's "14 ways to unstick a seatpost" for other ideas, most of which apply to quill stems as well.
 

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Crash Test Dummy
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well, the LBS had told me that could not get the stem loose and were going to put new cables on it the way it was. So, I called to find out when it would be ready and got a call back stating that they BROKE it loose the night before. I was under the impression that I was going to be getting my working bike back and now, I am getting a broken bike with a stem broken off down inside the fork. Any advice and how to handle the situation with the LBS??? They are telling me that they broke my headset and that I will need that and a new fork to put it back together.....
\
 

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As you mentioned in the title, it's an "Old Bike". It seems it wasn't maintained as well as it could/should have been and in an effort to get it online it is having issues.
You will most likely have some options on headset and fork to make some choices. I hope you don't think you should get the parts for free.
 

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Lost in Space...
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I don't personally think that they should charge you for the labor that was already completed, since they were unable to get it apart while maintaining integrity of the fork. Even then, it depends on what was communicated to them by you...
The fork/stem was old and neglected and that is why it broke, not because of the shop.
 

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Crash Test Dummy
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Old Bike

I guess my main frustration is that I was told "We can't do it so we are going to get it back together the way you brought it in and then they decided after I was told that to put a little more force into it that night and broke it. I don't want anything for free, not what I am getting at, just don't want a bike that was ridable going in coming out a bike unridable. Jsut frustrated more than anything. For sure don't want to pay for nothing.
 

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Cranky Old Bastard
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I've worked in machine shops much of my life and would try heating the steerer with a propane torch...except that the rust on it looks terrible; I wouldn't trust it.

How much is the bike really worth? Does it fit you well; is it in great shape otherwise? Is the seat post stuck in the frame as well?

Nashbar has the parts to upgrade to a 1" carbon threadless fork for about $150.
The fork is $90, headset $21, spacers $6 and they have a couple of stems for $15. You'd have to check the clamp diameter of your bars (25.4, 26.0 or 31.6) and the length of stem and what spacers you'd need.

If your old fork was steel this switch will likely take off a lot of weight.
Nashbar Carbon Road Bike Fork - Road Bike Forks

And Nashbar has sales often, sometimes as much as 25%.
 

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Crash Test Dummy
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The picture looks worse as far as rust than it really is. The bike looked to be in really good shape until we ran into this problem. I had just rode 65 miles the saturday before I took it in. By looking at it you would never have known this to be a problem. The top tube internal brake line is a different story but that turned out to be easier to fix than I had expected.
Bicycle Blue Book says that the bike is worth 400.00. It has nice components for its age. The seat post is not stuck as I have removed it before.
I already have a new quill, stem and bars ready to go back in, I looked at nashbar and saw the carbon fork. Didn't want to have to spend much more $$ than already spent on STI shifters, bars and all the rest. How do I know if I need the 26.4 or the 27.0 headset, the bike shop said they order a new headset since they broke it. I am going to get a couple metal intended drill bits and put the fork in a vise and see what I can do.
 

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The fork/stem was old and neglected and that is why it broke, not because of the shop.
It might have been "old and neglected," but had many years of useful life left if the shop would have left well enough alone. They clearly screwed up in that they could have put it all back together as promised, but decided to give it one more try after they made that promise. At the least, they should make good by giving the OP free and cheerful installation of a new headset and fork with no snide remarks about the internet or Bike Nashbar should he buy the parts online.

Just curious: how on Earth did they break the headset?

Didn't see your post above until just now. The 26.4 and 27.0 refers to the fork crown race diameter in millimeter. Easily measured on the old fork since it's already out. You need to match the fork and headset crown race diameters, regardless if old or new. To me, the old fork looks fine. But of course, you need to get that stem remnant out.
 

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Crash Test Dummy
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
He said the headset was aluminum and when he tried to get it off the wrench started rounding the edges and he decided that he would just go ahead and get it off. In the process is was rendered useless to reinstall. They are cheap so that wasnt that big a deal, 100.00 for a new fork, not as easy to swallow.
 

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Lost in Space...
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I am going to get a couple metal intended drill bits and put the fork in a vise and see what I can do.
I commend you for effort, as I'd do the same... but, I hope you have a really powerful drill (at least 5 amps; don't even waste your time with the cordless variety).

It might have been "old and neglected," but had many years of useful life left if the shop would have left well enough alone. They clearly screwed up in that they could have put it all back together as promised, but decided to give it one more try after they made that promise. At the least, they should make good by giving the OP free and cheerful installation of a new headset and fork with no snide remarks about the internet or Bike Nashbar should he buy the parts online.
Which is why I also said that I don't know what was discussed between the OP and the LBS... depending on what was asked, the shop may or may not be at fault. It sounds to me as if they broke it trying to accomplish the original goal of removing the stem from the fork; if it snapped while doing that, it's a stretch to blame the shop after several days of soaking didn't loosen the thing up.

The headset part has me scratching my head though as I don't understand why a stripped lock-ring (which is replaceable) would result in the entire headset needing replaced. I'm suspicious of the competence of the shop in question based on what has been stated.
 
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