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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My '96 Klien was "upgraded" to single-speed status last year (worn our RSX groupo) and I still LOVE riding this bike. The only thing that bothers me, well two things really, is the bar/stem combo. The stem is too long (130mm) and leaves me a bit stretched out and handles uhm.. differently from my other bikes. And, the bar creaks - a lot.

I've moved the bar to the side to clean it and the stem. But it still creaks. I'm thinking of replacing the bar and stem. My other bike - a 2009 Scott Addict SL - has a Richie aluminum bar that I'd love to swap over to the Klien. Easier said than done - 31.8mm diameter tube.

What are my options here? Does someone make a 110mm quill that'll work with the larger diameter bars?

Here's what I'm working with...
 

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The threadless adapters. Depending on the bend...you might be able to track down a 26.0 bar that is similar.
 

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I don't see how the bars themselves could creak, unless they have a fracture in them. Likely spots are also the brake levers or the cabling. It doesn't look like a good wrap job, since it's coming up short of where it is supposed to.
If it were me, I'd just get a newer (and more traditional looking) quill that's going to be a better fit for you. I'd also get it re-wrapped too.
 

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Most creaks come from the stem, but sometimes from the bar. There was a discussion some time ago on another forum where the argument arose that one needs to replace a AL bars and stems every 3 or 4 years due to fatigue. I don't really buy into that, because I've had bars and stems that were 15 years old and never creaked, but I usually replace my bars about every 15 years just to be safe or sooner if I bent it by accident, I may be wasting my money but the piece of mind is worth it. The ultralight bars and stems I use to use when I raced they would start creaking after about 2 years and those I would replace as soon as I heard noise. But since then I've used nothing but Nitto's because their very well made and last a long time, though their a tad heavier then the old TTT AL bars and stems.
 

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Larry Lackapants
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+1 for creaking at the bar.

well if you've already lubed the nut & quill of the stem, you can drip some light oil between bar sleeve and bars. Has worked for me few years ago and still have those bars.
That only to know if the creaking can be fixed or not. (if it were a non-sleeved bar and creaking, I'd dump it because of the possibility of a crack)
 

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brblue said:
+1 for creaking at the bar.

well if you've already lubed the nut & quill of the stem, you can drip some light oil between bar sleeve and bars. Has worked for me few years ago and still have those bars.
That only to know if the creaking can be fixed or not. (if it were a non-sleeved bar and creaking, I'd dump it because of the possibility of a crack)
The only problem with oiling is that it can disguise a major problem. today there's a lot of CF stems and bars and those won't creak, they'll just shatter suddenly without warning, here's a forum discussion about that: http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=224951 Also you can't use oil on CF clamping points in an attempt to quiet it. You can use either Tacx carbon assembly compound or ·Fiber Grip carbon fiber assembly gel from Finish Line.

CF behaves differently when it is overloaded in an accident or impact. An overloaded metal part will bend or deform before it breaks, showing evidence of the load. An overloaded carbon fiber part will not bend or deform, so a damaged carbon part (with reduced strength due to the damage) may look normal—even after the same load that bent the metal part. But when the sum of the forces finally exceeds the strength limit of the carbon fiber, the carbon fiber part breaks, it will not bend. Also with CF parts you have to make very sure you torque the bolts to exactly factory recommended settings, to much and could crush the CF or stress out the CF to the point where you can't see it but it fails later. It's also best to tighten the bolts in an alternating pattern like you would with the wheel on the car, and you slowly tighten bit by bit alternating from one to bolt to the next until you reach the desired torque setting; this way you don't have one bolt tight to specs and the others loose, this could put stress on the stem and bar.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well... I made the conversion. I was worried about the added weight of the quill adaptor... until I held the original stem and handlebar combo in my hand - noticeably heavier than the new Ritchie WCS 4-Axis stem and Ritchie Logic II WCS bar combo.

In the end, I shaved 65 grams while significantly stiffing (and quieting) the front end.

Thanks for all the help!
 

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Glad you got rid of your creaks. Nice to see another Klein out in the dirt. I put my only newer Klein together for my nephew as a SS. I rode it around (test ride) and didn't want to give it to him. I'm amazed at how nice they still are. And its very nice to ride something that you won't see out on the trail, especially when you pass some $3500 Yeti. Time to get my 89 Pinnacle back together. Enjoy..:)
 
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