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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thinking about changing the color on my caad10 to flat black, but have a few questions first...

Would striping and repainting it void my warranty?
What would be better, to bring it to my pc guy or an automotive painter?

Anything else i should know before I make my decision?
 

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If you're going flat black why not use a couple cans of Krylon flat black or primer with matte clear over the top. Won't be able to tell the difference and would be less than $20.
 

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If you repaint the frame such that it doesn't look like something originally offered by Cannondale, you're not likely to receive much sympathy if you need warranty work.

Powdercoat works well with the welded joint design of aluminum frames because powdercoat is thicker than paint and tends to obscure the fine detail of lug edges, although it doesn't do this excessively so. My old lugged steel frame is powdercoated and most people would be hard pressed to know the difference.

Powdercoat is cheaper, more durable, and less costly than wet paint. It's also not as glossy and certain paint schemes are not available in powdercoat.

Wet paint is almost twice the cost, more readily conducive to more intricate paint schemes such as fades, and takes special precautions to apply since it's very toxic.

If plan on applying decals that must be protected under a clear coat, then you should know some decals won't survive the heat of the powdercoat process. You should ask before you commit. Some decals won't last unless protected by a clear coat.

Regardless of whether you have a powdercoater or wet paint specialist do the work, you should ask whether they can remove the existing paint safely, including that on the carbon fork. You may also have to provide detailed instructions and photos on what surfaces and threads need to be masked if the vendor is not familiar with bicycle frames. My friend had a lugged steel frame powdercoated last year by a very professional outfit that does manufacturing parts as well. He did just as described and the company even drew up manufacturing process sheets to follow the frame through powdercoating. It came out well and cost about $170.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If plan on applying decals that must be protected under a clear coat, then you should know some decals won't survive the heat of the powdercoat process. You should ask before you commit. Some decals won't last unless protected by a clear coat.

Regardless of whether you have a powdercoater or wet paint specialist do the work, you should ask whether they can remove the existing paint safely, including that on the carbon fork. You may also have to provide detailed instructions and photos on what surfaces and threads need to be masked if the vendor is not familiar with bicycle frames. My friend had a lugged steel frame powdercoated last year by a very professional outfit that does manufacturing parts as well. He did just as described and the company even drew up manufacturing process sheets to follow the frame through powdercoating. It came out well and cost about $170.
Do the cannondale stickers on the caad10 have to have a clear over it?

Also I thought you couldnt pc carbon...?
 

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Cannondale considers their paint processes "contribute" to the structural integrity of all their bikes. Therefore, stripping it VOIDS your lifetime warranty.

I say take some 600-grit and rough-up the existing paint. Then, give it six mist coats of Matte Black Automotive engine enamel, with a 15 minute flash-dry time in between coats. Bake the enamel UNDER 200F, using one hour bake-cooldown times 2x. The third and final bake should be for 3 hours at 200F. Allow frame to air-cure for seven days. New finish will look stealthy and understated.....and 100% scratch-proof.

The original Cannondale paint makes an excellent base coat "primer"....when prepped correctly. Powdercoating using high heat(above 400F) to an aluminum, heat-treated frame will inevitably compromise the T6 annealing of that frame. Here is my 2001 Cannondale Bad Boy Ultra restoration project:

BEFORE:






AFTER:






 
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