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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone have any quick ideas on how to remove pedals that are seriously stuck on the crank? I had my 8 mm allen slightly bending and still couldn't get the pedal loose. Right now I'm thinking LBS.
 

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Matnlely Dregaend
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Arrange the wrench so you can get your hand simultaneously around the crank arm and the end of the wrench, specifically so that if you squeeze the wrench is pushed in the right direction (towards the back of the bike). Squeeze your hand together. It will come off, or something will break!
 

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Carbon Fiber = Explode!
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Your LBS should be able to do you the favor for free. Just bring in your crankarm.
 

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Do the pedals have wrench flats, or just the allen fitting? If the former, a proper pedal wrench, with an extension bar if necessary, will give you much better grip and leverage.

Penetrating oil, and heat, may help. This is one situation where heat can be especially useful, since the alu crank will expand more than the steel spindle.
 

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Resident Curmudgeon
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Get thee to thy nearest auto parts store & ask them for an 8mm allen socket for a 3/8" drive. Put that sucker on your ratchet, or better yet your breaker bar if you have one, and have at it. Next time you install the pedals make sure you grease the threads on the pedals, and using a Qtip, the threads on the crank arm too.
 

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Beyond the wrench

SM-Rider said:
Anyone have any quick ideas on how to remove pedals that are seriously stuck on the crank? I had my 8 mm allen slightly bending and still couldn't get the pedal loose. Right now I'm thinking LBS.
If getting a bigger wrench doesn't work, things like penetrating oil (Liquid Wrench, Kroil, etc.) are worth a try, as is heat cycling. Apply an ice cube to the pedal axle and a steaming hot/wet rag to the aluminum crank. Then reverse. The expansion/contraction might break the metal bond. Also, while doing the big wrench thing, a sharp rap with a hammer on the wrench may be more effective than just applying pressure.
 

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Rub it............
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I had a set of Eggbeaters that were stuck in a Sram Rival crankset. I ended up twisting the allen wrench and it was a Park Tool allen. Ended up having to break out the fire wrench and heating up the area, then smacking it with a dead blow hammer a few times. After that, it came right out.
 

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So. Calif.
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2,800 Posts
Lay crankset or bike on its side, and allow PB Blaster or Liq Wrench to "puddle" and soak into threads , from the backside of crank arm.

PB Blaster works a bit better than Liq Wrench, IMO. I've used it to break free seriously frozen stuck and corroded auto bolts.

For future installations, apply copper anti-seize to threads ... it works better and is longer lasting than grease.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Will the the chemical solutions affect CF? I have the pedals attached to an FSA SL-K light crank set.
 

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eRacer
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Put a Block of Wood under the Crankarm.
That way you don't have to hold or muscle the Crankarm and have a steady platform to apply Torque to your Allen Wrench.
Penetrating Oil.
Sturdy Allen Wrench and a Breaker Bar.
Good Luck.
Remember Grease is your Friend.
Once or twice a year, I remove my pedals to make sure they aren't frozen, and I freshen the Crankarm threads with a 9/16 x 20 (R) and (L) tap, and re-grease. Saves a lot of cussing and scraped knuckles in the long run.
 

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So. Calif.
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SM-Rider said:
Will the the chemical solutions affect CF? I have the pedals attached to an FSA SL-K light crank set.
PB Blaster & Liq Wrench are basically very low viscosity oils + other hydrocarbon. I've had them splash on painted auto surfaces with no ill effect.
Still, i wouldn't indiscriminately spray willy-nilly. By laying crankset or bike on its side, you can drip a few drops (even w/ aerosol) onto backside of crank/pedal, where there's aften a slight depression.
 

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Arrogant roadie.....
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FWIW, I have never been able to remove any pedal (at least any that have been on for a while) with those [email protected] allen heads. Occasionally, I'll use an allen wrench AND open wrench on the flats simultaneously, but that's about all the good those things are.
 

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Carbon Fiber = Explode!
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Dave_Stohler said:
FWIW, I have never been able to remove any pedal (at least any that have been on for a while) with those [email protected] allen heads. Occasionally, I'll use an allen wrench AND open wrench on the flats simultaneously, but that's about all the good those things are.
More grease, less torque. :D
 

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Resident Curmudgeon
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I don't know for sure what the correct name for them is, but it's a socket with an 8 mm allen key welded to it. The allen key is straight and sticks out about 1 - 1.5 inches. Put the socket on a 3/8 drive socket and you'll have some big time leverage. When I tried to remove my Looks I actually bent a couple of allen keys. Since they don't have flats on the axle, a conventional wrench won't help at all. I agree with Dave_Stohler who said if the pedals have been on for awhile they're going to be a bear to remove. I always grease the threads before assembly, but they're tough little monkeys.
 
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